When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm no expert, but I believe you would need a degree wheel and dial indicator to determine the best setting. Setting it to 0 should get you running, that's probably what id do unless there is no rush to get it going.
Every adjustable timing gear I have seen, "O" is straight up.
But engine should have ran okay with cam straight-up, advanced, or retarded. Something else is wrong.
There you go.
Like I said, I would think you would need to verify whether the cam was ground for a 302 firing order, or a 302HO/351 firing order....just to make sure.
Other thank that, just make sure your distributor was installed right. #1 piston TDC on compression stroke, and the rotor pointing at the #1 post. That'll get you in the ballpark.
ok i degreed the cam and found out that the guy had the cam set to the suare witch is 4 degrees retarted when the cam already had it built into it so im goin to pull it off and try the straight up 0
i think i figured out the problem when i line up my dots,they only line up on the compression stroke shouldnt the dots both be in the 12 aclock position on tdc
i think i figured out the problem when i line up my dots,they only line up on the compression stroke shouldnt the dots both be in the 12 aclock position on tdc
ok sorry about all the questions but i saw a vid on youtube on a 289 and when the guy lined up his dots the motor was not actually on tdc is was on the exhaust stroke.and to ur pic i blew it up and looked at it the only time any of my 3 marks line up is on the compression stroke and its the square keyd slot ur pic shows that ur key slot isnt even near the dot on the crank gear
ok sorry about all the questions but i saw a vid on youtube on a 289 and when the guy lined up his dots the motor was not actually on tdc is was on the exhaust stroke.and to ur pic i blew it up and looked at it the only time any of my 3 marks line up is on the compression stroke and its the square keyd slot ur pic shows that ur key slot isnt even near the dot on the crank gear
Look closely at the crank gear, you'll see the "dot" straight up. The cam gear has it straight down. They line up.
ok im tryin to wrk through this bare with me please my crank gear has 3 seprete slots all located about 90 degrees from each other the only mark to line up with the cam gear dot is the suare on the cam gear and it is the slot rate on the key for the crank it just seems to be off to me compared to every other pic i can find
ok im tryin to wrk through this bare with me please my crank gear has 3 seprete slots all located about 90 degrees from each other the only mark to line up with the cam gear dot is the suare on the cam gear and it is the slot rate on the key for the crank it just seems to be off to me compared to every other pic i can find
I'm not quite sure what you are describing. Can you take a pic and show us?
Slots...are you talking about the keyways?
Anyone else reading this thread know what he's dealing with?
Ok, I just found this. Look at the keyways, they'll be cut differently. You need to use the keyway that pertains to the "dot" it was cut for. See here:
yeah that sounds alot like mine check out this link and tell me what u think
Right. Once you know which keyway corresponds to which mark, install the crank gear on the keyway that you want to use, and line up that mark with the cam gear mark....just like the video shows you.
Then, install the distributor correctly. #1 piston 16° BTDC on compression, rotor pointing at the #1 post.
You know where to go from there.
Do a proper cam break-in. You DID install new lifters, right?
The PO may have used a timing set with a "Multi-index" crank sprocket. A Multi-index crank sprocket like you are describing will have, most commonly, three keyways for the crank key. One will be straight up at 0 degrees, one will be 4 degrees advanced and the other will be 4 degrees retarded. This is so the engine builder can fine tune the power band of the camshaft he is installing.
You probably want the 0 degree slot. It should be marked in some way.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.