'm kay... got my bright shiny new dashdaq up
and running with all the ford codes....
i went to crank, my voltage with OEM
alternator in place after sitting all night
is 11.8 volts, dropping to 9.2 for an instant
when cranking cold.

now, i have a p0611 code set. when cleared,
it resets. never had this code before.

is low voltage when cranking setting the code,
or is the ficm in a death dance, or is the low
voltage killing the ficm?

vehicle starts and runs well... at the moment.
(subject to change without notice.)

what next, guys? should i put in the DC power
alternator, even tho i haven't got the wiring in
place for it? it's sitting in the garage.

should i have the ficm done?

should i just shoot the thing, and put it out of
it's misery?

appreciate some feedback.... thanks....

 

You don't mention what the FICM is reading. KOEO cold reading. Then running readings.

Does DashDaq also do the other 2 FICM readings?

And, low voltage does kill the FICM. Probably will need it fixed.

How are the batteries? Load tested good?

Get wiring and then add your new alternator.

Send FICM to FICMrepair.com Heck, after you get your FICM readings, give Ed a call, he will give you all sorts of details on the FICM system.

 

The starting point is battery voltage before you turn on the truck, should be 12.6 - 12.7 volts. The batteries need to be able to get and accept a charge while in normal running from the alternator and should float at that voltage after resting for several hours. You really should disconnect the batteries and test them for float voltage separately. If that isn't good, you are starting from a hole in the ground... As soon as you turn on the key, a high load situation starts - glow plugs on, maybe the FICM is exercising the injectors to warm them up, etc... This is where the load test is important, mine goes down to 11.8 or so. Then the start - cranking is another very high load situation. Wiring is critical, good cable ends, no corrosion. What happens is the starter motor is going to draw the power it needs regardless. With the additional resistance of a slightly bad connection, or a battery that drops down too far the battery is driven way down.

In my opinion the stock alternator is completely adequate unless you are running something that draws enough power while running to keep the batteries from being charged correctly. That could be an inverter, a stereo, some giant lights or whatever... I would not jump to an alternator upgrade unless you have eliminated the other issues, you have that big non-stock power draw, or you need the bling... I'd focus on the FICM if your voltages look like these, it's very possible for the FICM to just have decided it's time...

Brian

 

P0611 = FICM death code although a FICM reflash MAY (or may not) fix it. Send it to Ed, let him rework it, and have the Atlas 40 tune installed. You're covered on all bases then.

 

While the FICM is out, replace the batteries.

I seem to remember you having some high-dollar batteries in at one point, but if they're not giving you 12.6v+ after sitting all night, at least one of them is a dud.

If you're still on "normal" batteries, if they're more than 2 years old, they're on the way out. Change 'em.

-blaine

 

This might help from ed, when i had my ficm problem;
While I know that you've already taken care of some of these steps, here are some good health checks to keep FICM's happy (I need to get this list up on FICMrepair.com!):

1. Airflow. You don't want to do anything to impede the airflow around the module. As has been said, the fins all around the module are there to dissipate heat, but they can only do so with air movement. The trick with any heat shield is to prevent the heat from coming up from under the module while also allowing the air to move next to the module.
2. Vibration. Ensure that the isolation dampeners on the 03's and 04's that are on the ears of the module are intact and not hard. They should be pliable. For people with the 05's and up, the dampeners are on the bracket itself. Just make sure that they are intact and haven't hardened.
3. Programming. Ensure that you are not running the aggressive heat induction flash revisions (ARZ2AL01, etc). Mild induction is fine, as with the latest Ford flash (even if it does kill fuel economy). To get to a decent one that doesn't kill the fuel economy while also including the mild induction so that you can start your truck in the winter, move to a PHP tune (we, of course, offer these) or moving to no induction at all via an older tune (only a good idea if you live in the warmer climates or don't mind plugging your truck in every day during the winter).
4. Batteries. These need to be beefy enough to handle the load of starting a diesel (group size 65 and 850CCA or more, at a minimum). The voltage of the batteries just sitting there overnight should ideally be 12.7 (12.6 and 12.5 are still okay, but lower really isn't, and 12.1 or similar is near dead). The best test, though, is what the voltage drops to during cranking. Fully functional batteries only dip to about 11.3 or so. Dipping into the 10's is okay, but dipping into the 9's isn't (even *if* Ford's TSB says that dipping to as low as 9.3 volts for up to five seconds is acceptable).
5. Alternator. The stock alternator is a piddly 110amp and only puts out 65amps at idle. If you have all of the stock accessories going, about 100amps is being drawn. Obviously, there are times when you are drawing on the batteries under this setup. If your alternator is at all weak, consider a DC Power alternator. While the XP 270 is clearly the best, their lowest end 185amp OEM alternator is still a HUGE difference given that it puts out 120amps AT IDLE. The best test of your alternator is to get the engine up to full temperature, turn on all the accessories (heated seats, you name it), and see what the voltage is as measured at one of the batteries. 13.3volts or higher means that you are a-ok. Less? Well, not so much. We, of course, now carry the DCPower line of products. They are just top, top shelf.
6. Chaffing. CAREFULLY check all of your wires for any signs of damage. Sometimes, this is very obvious. Other times, not so much. Be especially critical of any areas where the harness bends down around the block (in the back, etc). An inspection mirror makes this process easier. Use of a digital volt meter to do an pin-out test would be the ideal.

Hope this helps! We have our trucks to use them, not admire them sitting in the garage!!
__________________
Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com
---------------------------

 

Your Battery Float charge of 11.8volts was this taken before key was turned??

Or was it 11.8volts during Glow Plug warm up??? Reading taken at KOEO???

If static voltage was truely 11.8volt you have a Bad Battery/s and it has KILLED the FICM

Starting to look like a SNOWBALL Effect one thing failed and then took something else out with it

What you get for these below at KOEO-Low Idel-High Idel (2500rpm)

FICM Main Power
FICM Lodgic Power
FICM Vehicle Power

 

whoa. i'm trying to figure out how to program all
the widgits on the dashdaq.....

please be patient. this is as much fun as programming your
home theatre.

'm kay......

as for batteries... i have two oddesy 65-PC1750T-A
batteries, that test good. oddesy makes a microprocessor
controlled tester that does some pretty good evaluations.
they use it for their warranty work, and diagnosis of problems.
you can test with the old style load bank, but the oddesy
tester will show hidden flaws, that can let the manufacturer
off the hook if you abused the batteries.

both batteries test above 1,000 CCA, and above 2,000 PHCA.
i went by one of the larger oddesy dealers here, and tested
them with this:
http://www.odysseybattery.com/docume...1_0608_001.pdf

you don't have to split up the batteries to test them..
enersys makes it for their batteries. when i first saw one,
i thought... how cool... i want one..... then i asked how much.
don't ask. you don't want to know.

running down the road at 1,800 rpm, i'm getting 13.8 volts
at the PCM. that isn't enough to fully charge these batteries.

the oddesy processor controlled 50 amp charger does a
charge on these batteries like this....

cranks up the voltage till 50 amps is flowing into the battery...
when the battery reaches 80% charge, it backs off to a regulated
14.7 volts, for four hours.

when current flow drops to 100 MA, or 4 hours goes by, it drops to
float charge of 13.6 volts.

full charge on these batteries, rested, should be:

Voltmeter Reading State of Charge
12.84 Volts or higher 100%
12.50 Volts 75%
12.18 Volts 50%
11.88 Volts 25%

so, they are on the 50 amp charger, and when they hit 100%
i'll pull them off and let them sit for 6 hours, then measure.

i'm also gonna get the calipers out, and measure the wire size,
and see what awg wire the van uses. if it's #1 or larger, that
alternator is going in tomorrow. screw it. i'll deal with all the
pretty nice battery box i had planned for, later.

0000 (4/0) 0.4600
000 (3/0) 0.4096
00 (2/0) 0.3648
0 (1/0) 0.3249
1 0.2893
2 0.2576
4 0.2043

 

Didn't take me long at all for my home theater. Just turn the tv on! As theater as it gets!