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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 01:01 PM
  #16  
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Question

BTW are there any procedure or write up to change the coolant, because right now the T&C only has plain water? How many quarts? 50/50? Mopar?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 01:13 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by RÖENTGEEP
Does anybody knows what kind of material is made of that plastic part? ABS?

Could it be glued?

Jose... jose.. jose.. A man can fix almost ANYTHING with WD40, Duct tape, and possibily some epoxy/glue!

I thought you would have learned that by now..

Just yankin yer chain!
 
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 01:22 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Awitte58
Jose... jose.. jose.. A man can fix almost ANYTHING with WD40, Duct tape, and possibily some JB Weld!
There, I fixed that list for you...

I would use whatever the recommended coolant is (I think you can still use green) and dilute it with distilled water. As far as draining it goes, I would just drain it to get as much out of it as you can and then re-fill it. It is after all, a Chrysler. It's only a matter of time until it needs an engine or transmission...
 
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 02:00 PM
  #19  
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Its extended life coolant. Red stuff from the dealer it will be like 30 bucks a gallon give our take a few bucks. I always get one and mix it 50 50 with water. Just empty all the water and refill.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 08:28 AM
  #20  
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From: Celaya, Gto. MX
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Talking

Originally Posted by Awitte58
Jose... jose.. jose.. A man can fix almost ANYTHING with WD40, Duct tape, and possibily some epoxy/glue!

I thought you would have learned that by now..

Just yankin yer chain!


Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
There, I fixed that list for you...

I would use whatever the recommended coolant is (I think you can still use green) and dilute it with distilled water. As far as draining it goes, I would just drain it to get as much out of it as you can and then re-fill it. It is after all, a Chrysler. It's only a matter of time until it needs an engine or transmission...

Originally Posted by Mdt1992
Its extended life coolant. Red stuff from the dealer it will be like 30 bucks a gallon give our take a few bucks. I always get one and mix it 50 50 with water. Just empty all the water and refill.
Well you were right, I bought the new OEM part and the Y came as an assembly together the rubber hoses and the metal pipe and all the clamps needed, Im going to change only the new Y and hoses (I think that it takes the only 10 min you mentioned above, am I right?) not all the metal pipes and the other plastic Y that comes with all the new part. Also I could see the back clamp near to the firewall. I also bought two gallons of the red stuff from the dealer, I dont know the capacity but Im going to read the manual and refill as needed (mix 50 50). Where is the drain valve? is it in the bottom of the radiator?.

Thanks again AMIGOS.

 
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 05:16 PM
  #21  
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From: VA BEACH
You should only need one gallon of coolant and a gallon of water. I usually don't use the drain vslve they have a tendency to leak afterwards. I always just either suck it out with a flush machine out disconnect the lower rad hose.. Yeah usually we only replace the rubber part as it costs less in labor
 
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 09:56 PM
  #22  
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From: Madison, WI
Originally Posted by Awitte58
Jose... jose.. jose.. A man can fix almost ANYTHING with WD40, Duct tape, and possibily some epoxy/glue!
If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape.

If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40.

If the ladies don't find you handsome, at least let 'em find you handy...
 
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 02:04 PM
  #23  
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From: Celaya, Gto. MX
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Unhappy

Originally Posted by Mdt1992
You should only need one gallon of coolant and a gallon of water. I usually don't use the drain vslve they have a tendency to leak afterwards. I always just either suck it out with a flush machine out disconnect the lower rad hose.. Yeah usually we only replace the rubber part as it costs less in labor
Good news, bad news: The good news are that I changed the Y and the rubber parts, and was straigth, refill with the coolant as mentioned and no more leaks there, BUT (bad news) now there are a good coolant leak in the passenger side of the motor, that seems to come under the BIG pulley there, that I think its the crankshaft pulley, or its the water pump there? or both. IDK. Im going to upload some pics.

If its the water pump, its easy to change it? any special tools? I have to empty the system?


 
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 02:05 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by madpogue
If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape.

If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40.

If the ladies don't find you handsome, at least let 'em find you handy...
That is a good one

 
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 03:05 PM
  #25  
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Unhappy

here the pics you can see the wet part where the coolant leaks.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 03:41 PM
  #26  
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oh man that defiantly looks like a water pump leak which is up and to the left while looking at the crank, i could see replacement of that a huge pain with the vehicle on the ground assuming it has a 3.8l engine.. being as you have to do it all from underneath while prying the engine away from the frame the get both the pulley and the water pump out and back in.. most cases im using a 4ft prybar to move the engine enough the allow removal they leak often. really should be the only leak spot on that side since the oil cooler looks dry. intake leaks are common but most of the time leak on the drivers side on top of the transmission
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 10:50 AM
  #27  
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Question

Originally Posted by Mdt1992
oh man that defiantly looks like a water pump leak which is up and to the left while looking at the crank, i could see replacement of that a huge pain with the vehicle on the ground assuming it has a 3.8l engine.. being as you have to do it all from underneath while prying the engine away from the frame the get both the pulley and the water pump out and back in.. most cases im using a 4ft prybar to move the engine enough the allow removal they leak often. really should be the only leak spot on that side since the oil cooler looks dry. intake leaks are common but most of the time leak on the drivers side on top of the transmission
The motor is 4.0L V6 SOHC 24V. For pry the engine you have to unbolt something? (motor supports? etc). Its a DIY work?. I can see a large black steel plate there in the side of the engine behind of the crank pulley, and over the water pump, do I have to remove it?. Do you know the torque for the bolt of the crank pulley?

Thank for your help and time.

 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 06:02 PM
  #28  
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From: VA BEACH
Can you see it flowing out the water pump? Im really not familer right of the top of my head ill have to take a look at one tomorrow
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 10:03 PM
  #29  
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just checked with the Chrysler service website and no wonder i wasn't familiar with doing a water pump on a 4.0l they are timing belt driven pumps on the 09 RT body. never seen one leak on that engine but doesnt mean it cant happen. id pressure test the coolant system or try to locate the exact source before doing a waterpump of that magnitude. would absolutly blow to go through all that and it not be it..

the 3.8l engine pry is with the engine mount loose on the passenger side. the water pump pulley has no clearance on the frame rail so with a big freaking pry bar you can move the engine just enough to snake it out fairly easy... loved doing them until they caught on and lowered the labor time on them substantially
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 08:40 AM
  #30  
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From: Celaya, Gto. MX
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Unhappy

Originally Posted by Mdt1992
just checked with the Chrysler service website and no wonder i wasn't familiar with doing a water pump on a 4.0l they are timing belt driven pumps on the 09 RT body. never seen one leak on that engine but doesnt mean it cant happen. id pressure test the coolant system or try to locate the exact source before doing a waterpump of that magnitude. would absolutly blow to go through all that and it not be it..

the 3.8l engine pry is with the engine mount loose on the passenger side. the water pump pulley has no clearance on the frame rail so with a big freaking pry bar you can move the engine just enough to snake it out fairly easy... loved doing them until they caught on and lowered the labor time on them substantially
Well that also are bad news, because I think I have to go to visit the dealer
Thank you for your time.

 
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