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If you can pump the pedal really fast and it tightens up, this means there is either still air in the lines, or the brake shoes still aren't adjusted all the way, or the pads/shoes haven't seated themselves.
It could also mean you still have a bad master. Brake fade and loss of pedal results in fluid going by the seals. It isn't uncommon these days to buy bad parts even though they're new.
Did you reset the proportioning valve? I think there's a procedure for that somewhere here.
Starting to think maybe the calipers I got aren't working correctly, is there any way to tell?
Don't see how it can be the calipers if bringing the emergency brake on makes the brakes work correctly. Seems to me to be something with the rear brakes.
When you adjust the shoes out to touch the drum are you banging on the backing plate to get everything to center? When you put new shoes on nothing is centered, and the shoes will hit the drum far earlier than they should. So adjust the shoes tight, hit the backing plate with a rubber mallet, check the adjustment, hit the ..... Once it stops moving, meaning it has centered, you can adjust the shoes for a slight drag.
thanks 1983f150... I do try get all the details down but i forget sometimes..lol but they are the same questions I ask when someone asks me for help.. I do love the search feature as well has helped a ton already.
Don't see how it can be the calipers if bringing the emergency brake on makes the brakes work correctly. Seems to me to be something with the rear brakes.
When you adjust the shoes out to touch the drum are you banging on the backing plate to get everything to center? When you put new shoes on nothing is centered, and the shoes will hit the drum far earlier than they should. So adjust the shoes tight, hit the backing plate with a rubber mallet, check the adjustment, hit the ..... Once it stops moving, meaning it has centered, you can adjust the shoes for a slight drag.
I will do that in the morning never thought of that.
Jack up one side and remove the wheel, truck braced and in neutral. You can pull the drum off a bit, and should still be able to spin it. Have someone in the cab stand on the brake pedal and see what happens. See if it's moving enough to make contact, etc.
It can be a pain. When I first had my truck the parking brakes were rusted in the on position. So tight I couldn't get the drums off without a 2x2 and hammer. Left them loose and went riding down my street. Almost had to use my shirt as a parachute to stop. Took a few tries to get it all aligned, and this was with no new parts.
Also, if the shoes have been on for a couple uses, you should be able to see where they are and aren't grabbing. If they're all worn because of the parking brake- put something that will rub off easily on the shoes, put the drum on, spin it, apply the brakes, take it off and see where it's rubbing with just the pedal applied.
Also, the calipers should be installed so that the bleed port is on the top. Sometimes people will forget this when installing a new set of calipers. If they are installed on the bottom, then just switch sides and they will be on the top.
Also check the rubber brake lines. When they get old they will degrade and become soft. When brake pressure is applied they will expand, which you do not want. I use only steel braided lines when I replace them. Overkill, I know.
I did every suggestion on here, made sure it was all put together correctly ,smacked the rear around ,and it got me a truck that stops! Thanks guys! WHEW!