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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 02:33 AM
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2005 Escape HVAC

***2ND UPDATE***
I installed 2 shims between the pulley and hub on installation of new parts which was too much air gap; therefore the field coil when energized would not overcome the air gap and pull the hub and the pulley together. I had 0.080" of shims installed and the spec is 0.035" - 0.075". Installation of one 0.036" spacer corrected the installation and the a/c clutch is now working correctly. Your input has been very helpful and the challenge has been completed. Thank you very much.

***UPDATE***
I did not mention that this is a new field coil, pulley, hub, specers and bolt. Previous coil burnt up. Have read posts related to to my original post. I have wired directly from batter to coil on both positive and ground sides and still have no engagement. Next move is to disassible hub measure spacers, measure airgap and test again. I appreciate your time and knowledge assosiated to this challenge. All advice is greatly appreciated.


Hello, I am working on my 2005 Escape a/c. I cannot get the a/c clutch to engage. The field coil resistance has been measured at 4 ohms. I have jumped the low pressure swith, tested relays, checked voltage readings at clutch to be near 12 volts, ground has been tested as good, static pressure is near equal between the low and high side (appox. 90 psi). wiring diagram has been followed and all wires test good (no open circuits). What has been missed?
 

Last edited by klaphoenix; Jul 29, 2012 at 08:00 PM. Reason: 2nd update of the original post progress.
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 07:27 AM
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Did you measure the clutch gap to see if the clutch is worn excessively?

If you have 12 V at the clutch coil on one wire and ground on the other wire, it ain't an electrical problem, it's mechanical.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 08:01 AM
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It's also possible although having the proper voltage and what seems to be a good coil to still have a electrical problem. Since multi strand wire is used if a majority of the fine wires are broken within, it won't be able to draw the needed current to operate. This could be anywhere in the circuit, power or ground side.

You could prove this by using a wire(s) directly from your battery, starting with the power side then the ground.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 12:09 PM
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If the coil is "in-circuit" and the ground is intact, there will be over 3 amps flowing through the wires. If he's pulling over 3 amps and reads 12 v at the coil connector, there's nothing wrong with the wires. If the wire was down to a few strands, and the circuit was complete, he wouldn't have 12V at the connector.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
If the coil is "in-circuit" and the ground is intact, there will be over 3 amps flowing through the wires. If he's pulling over 3 amps and reads 12 v at the coil connector, there's nothing wrong with the wires. If the wire was down to a few strands, and the circuit was complete, he wouldn't have 12V at the connector.
You don't know how much if any Amps it's pulling.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 07:49 PM
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Yes, I do. It's 4 ohms and 12 volts. Apply Ohm's Law.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 09:29 PM
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Reread the OP, problem solved.
 
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