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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 08:52 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
If you pull the codes, I'll see what the book says.

But pull them all and tell me which codes are under which category.

KOEO
CM
KOER
I tried KOEO and got nothing. Thats key On Engine Off right? My test light bulb is good, it ran the pumps and clicked a few clicks then nothing, no light blinking.

I don't know what CM means.

I haven't done the Key On Engine Running test yet.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 08:56 PM
  #17  
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From: Vine Grove KY
Originally Posted by Dave804
Haven't dealt with Ford ignition systems before, but many will not run without the IAC. A lot of systems close the throttle completely, and use the idle valve to supply the idle air. If unpowered is default close, then it would die with no idle air.

Have you replaced, or at least cleaned it? Sounds like you're off with air/fuel mixture. The AC pickup probably provides just enough speed to keep it running. Try putting the truck in N and a slightly revving with the A/C off as you come to stop, see what happens.

If you haven't clean the IAC then get some throttle cleaner and 2 paper towels. spray until you can hear the element moving.

Is the IAC controlled by a 2 or 3 wire harness? I had two wires that measured the power feedback from the internals of the IAC. Connected test leads to them and ran the wires into the cab.

Doe the IAC have two short, molded, rubber hoses connecting it to both sides of the throttle body? Take those off and manipulate them to check for cracks. Can't always be seen on the car.
I cleaned the IAC when I rebuilt this engine maybe 7-10,000 miles ago. I media blasted the intake inside and out, cleaned TB, clean IAC and everything to squeaky clean perfection. The IAC functions, evidenced by the fact that the engine will fluctuate in rpm. My guess it that the idle screw is not set right, and/or the TPS is either faulty or going bad, or maybe it needs adjusting.

I believe the IAC harness is 3 wires. Nothing else going to it but those wires.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 08:59 PM
  #18  
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From: Vine Grove KY
I am heading to Gary Lewis's house tomorrow morning to replace some axle pivot bushings and install a trailer hitch so I can pick up a 1980 F150 for some parts. Maybe he and I can fool around with the self tests and get it to work then.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 09:09 PM
  #19  
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Could be, but do you have hesitation, jerking, or stumbling when accelerating? Anything while maintaining a constant speed, especially at highway speeds?

If y'all have a spare IAC between you try it real quick.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 09:09 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Dave804
Haven't dealt with Ford ignition systems before, but many will not run without the IAC. A lot of systems close the throttle completely, and use the idle valve to supply the idle air. If unpowered is default close, then it would die with no idle air.
Exactly correct; in fact, it's part of the diagnostics... start engine, let idle, disconnect IAC... does engine die, yes or no? Different steps to follow next depending on the outcome.

The engine is not supposed to run with it disconnected, the computer controls the idle speed.

Originally Posted by RAY1986F150
I tried KOEO and got nothing. Thats key On Engine Off right? My test light bulb is good, it ran the pumps and clicked a few clicks then nothing, no light blinking.
Yes, key-on-engine-off.

Just ground the self-test-in wire to ground, get in the cab, turn the key to RUN and see what happens. My Tempo doesn't have a CEL light but the computer blinks the SHIFT light at me. See if there's something in your truck that it would blink at you, I'd guess the EMISSIONS light in the top-left corner.

Only if there aren't any blinkenlights in the cab do you need to use the testlight/voltmeter method.

Originally Posted by RAY1986F150
I don't know what CM means.
You're not reading the instructions, man, all that stuff is explained....

Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
 
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 09:14 PM
  #21  
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From: Vine Grove KY
Originally Posted by ctubutis
Exactly correct; in fact, it's part of the diagnostics... start engine, let idle, disconnect IAC... does engine die, yes or no? Different steps to follow next depending on the outcome.

The engine is not supposed to run with it disconnected, the computer controls the idle speed.


Yes, key-on-engine-off.

Just ground the self-test-in wire to ground, get in the cab, turn the key to RUN and see what happens. My Tempo doesn't have a CEL light but the computer blinks the SHIFT light at me. See if there's something in your truck that it would blink at you, I'd guess the EMISSIONS light in the top-left corner.

Only if there aren't any blinkenlights in the cab do you need to use the testlight/voltmeter method.

You're not reading the instructions, man, all that stuff is explained....

Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
Nothing in the cab blinks. I tried that. Im sorry, but i am running around like crazy with a two year old and a pregnant wife while trying to fix my truck...if I have missed a few instructions please forgive me. I will try to read through them a little more now that my son is asleep.

edit: ok I did read through the above link earlier. I think I realize what I did wrong. I did ground the STI, but I hooked my test light to the neg terminal, the directions say positive terminal. Darn, i will have to go out and try again.

I thought you were supposed to use a jumper wire somewhere the last time I did this. Am I reading the instructions wrong? I don't see a jumper wire in the instructions at all.
 

Last edited by RAY1986F150; Jul 27, 2012 at 09:17 PM. Reason: ding dong
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 09:26 PM
  #22  
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Only with the voltmeter/testlight method do you need a jumper (according to this different set of instructions):

Ford Ranger/Bronco II EEC-IV Testing

I no longer do the volt/test thing, why bother if it will flash a light at me on the dash.

It wouldn't surprise me if a PO took the bulb out of the EMISSIONS lamp because they couldn't figure out how to make it go off.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 09:36 PM
  #23  
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OK. I got it to do this KOEO:

Blink Blink -pause- blink blink -long pause- blink -pause- blink blink -pause- blink blink

edit: ok, after re-reading the instructions my blinks mean that no errors have been recorded by the computer.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 09:40 PM
  #24  
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That's a Code 22, given to you twice.

There should then be a long pause, a single blink, a long pause, then more codes given to you twice. These are the CM codes, very important.

You can do this multiple times but don't disconnect the ground midway in testing, I'm pretty sure that'll clear the codes (which we don't want to do).
 
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 09:42 PM
  #25  
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BTW code 22 = it doesn't like your MAP/BARO sensor
 
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 09:44 PM
  #26  
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That given twice is a nice feature. Other other stomp test vehicle I've owned went at a ridiculous clip. 10 codes/min. I used to video tape it and then play it later.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 09:49 PM
  #27  
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From: Vine Grove KY
Originally Posted by ctubutis
BTW code 22 = it doesn't like your MAP/BARO sensor
Its a new MAP sensor i replaced it last year. I have the old one also. I swapped them out the other day and got no change.

The code I got was exactly the same as what the instructions say

"
Blink – 2 sec – blink – 4 sec – blink – 2 sec – blink – 6 sec – blink – 6 sec – blink – 2 sec – blink – 4 sec – blink – 2 sec � blink
This translates into 11-11 current condition (KOEO) and 11-11 in the continues memory (CM); or SYSTEMPASS"
 
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 09:51 PM
  #28  
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It will give you the entire string of errors twice. IOW say it wants to report 22, 37,95, it'll do:

22
37
95
long pause
22
37
95

long pause
1
long pause
CM codes twice, like above

Even if the system passes and everything is OK, it'll give Code 11

Unless.....

It's a more modern OBD1 system in which case it will give 3-digit codes and a 111 for System Pass.

It will never mix 2- and 3-digit codes.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 09:54 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by RAY1986F150
Its a new MAP sensor i replaced it last year. I have the old one also. I swapped them out the other day and got no change.

The code I got was exactly the same as what the instructions say

"
Blink – 2 sec – blink – 4 sec – blink – 2 sec – blink – 6 sec – blink – 6 sec – blink – 2 sec – blink – 4 sec – blink – 2 sec � blink
This translates into 11-11 current condition (KOEO) and 11-11 in the continues memory (CM); or SYSTEMPASS"
System Pass is good!

Now, do the KOER test, be sure to do your part when prompted to. Basically it will blink at once or twice, after which time you floor the throttle & release, then hold the brake and turn the steering wheel half a turn, then let off the brake.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 09:57 PM
  #30  
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From: Vine Grove KY
Originally Posted by ctubutis
System Pass is good!

Now, do the KOER test, be sure to do your part when prompted to. Basically it will blink at once or twice, after which time you floor the throttle & release, then hold the brake and turn the steering wheel half a turn, then let off the brake.
Did KEOR, but before I knew I had to do a WOT when prompted. But here is what I got:

44
34
77
25
21
 
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