Need some insight here
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2012
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Need some insight here
Hi guys,
Got a question. My dash cluster is not working properly, by that I mean it doesn't light the gauges at all. All other lighting functions are working, but the gauges, no matter what I replace, including the headlight switch, lights and fuses refuse to light. On the upside, I have a new headlight switch, light bulbs and fuses! Lol! Anyway, being as this is such a dusty vehicle, having been a farm truck I am finding dirt in the most interesting places and I am wondering if the dirt that was on the back of the cluster could have messed up the circuit board that's attached to it and should I just give up and get a new cluster?
Thanks for the help!
Got a question. My dash cluster is not working properly, by that I mean it doesn't light the gauges at all. All other lighting functions are working, but the gauges, no matter what I replace, including the headlight switch, lights and fuses refuse to light. On the upside, I have a new headlight switch, light bulbs and fuses! Lol! Anyway, being as this is such a dusty vehicle, having been a farm truck I am finding dirt in the most interesting places and I am wondering if the dirt that was on the back of the cluster could have messed up the circuit board that's attached to it and should I just give up and get a new cluster?
Thanks for the help!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 48
From: Middle TN
I don't think dust on the back would be a problem unless it was damp. Look very carefully at the curcuit for a hairline crack. Unplug the ribbon connector and clean the contacts with a pencil eraser.
The white plastic is very easy to break. Handle it carefully
The white plastic is very easy to break. Handle it carefully
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 4
X2 on being VERY careful handling the cluster back. Some of them will turn to dust when you start messing with them.
I had a similar problem with lights on one of my Dents a few years ago. I pulled the cluster out and took a Q-tip and alcohol and cleaned the light socket contacts and the printed circuit around the light sockets. On mine that did the trick. There was apparently enough corrosion to keep them from making good contact, even though they looked fine.
I had a similar problem with lights on one of my Dents a few years ago. I pulled the cluster out and took a Q-tip and alcohol and cleaned the light socket contacts and the printed circuit around the light sockets. On mine that did the trick. There was apparently enough corrosion to keep them from making good contact, even though they looked fine.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 67
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From: Athens, GA...it rocks.
I see corrosion on light socket contacts all the time in vintage guitar amps--especially ones that have lived near the ocean. On guitar amps, we use a light contact cleaner/electrical lubricant/deoxidizer called DeOxIt. On heavily corroded components like light sockets, input and output jacks, we spray it directly on the part, then use a small (.22 cal) copper bore brush (like you use in cleaning guns). If you do this--be VERY careful, use the bore brush, then go back over it with a q-tip, and it should get it clean. Sometimes the bore brush will leave tiny copper bits behind, so I suggest inspecting it very closely or buying a good bore brush, then actually brushing it out using a wire brush before using it.
Hope this makes sense--maybe it'll help!
Ng
Hope this makes sense--maybe it'll help!
Ng
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,321
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From: Cave Spring Georgia
There is a small metal box on the back of the cluster, that controls the voltage to the lights, this maybe bad.
Look at post 426: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...h-pics-29.html
Look at post 426: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...h-pics-29.html
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
This is incorrect. The "metal box" on the back of the cluster is the instrument cluster voltage regulator and provides power to the gauges only. The dash lights are powered off the headlight switch rheostat. The two circuits are not related.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2012
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So thats what that blue thing is for! Good grief, I've been wracking my brain trying to figure out where the blue thing hanging free goes! Sheesh!
Anyway, the headlight switch has been replaced and I still have no instrument lights and as a matter of fact, when I open the doors, my overhead doesn't come on, either. It does, however, go on when I turn the **** all the way over, like its supposed to do. Doggone! I'm soooo not good with electrical!
Anyway, the headlight switch has been replaced and I still have no instrument lights and as a matter of fact, when I open the doors, my overhead doesn't come on, either. It does, however, go on when I turn the **** all the way over, like its supposed to do. Doggone! I'm soooo not good with electrical!
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Freshman User
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I'm going to try to clean out the contacts tomorrow to see if that's whats hindering it. If it isn't, I'll be back on tomorrow evening! Lol!
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MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
You are correct; the rheostat is internal to the headlight switch.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2012
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Rechecked my headlight switch to make sure all of the connections are, well, connecting. Took all of the bulbs out and cleaned the contacts. Checked the pc board to make sure it is in place with no dirt in between it and the contacts on the back of the cluster. Checked to make sure all the wires are connected and in good condition. Nothing. Nada. The same lights that went on before still work, the instruments not at all. Go ahead, hit me with your best shots here.
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