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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

No Start problem

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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 08:40 PM
  #1  
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No Start problem

My truck: 1990 F150 351W 4x4 automatic


My truck will crank,but not start. No fuel,no spark

I have replaced: plugs, wires, cap/rotor, TFI module, coil.

basically I have tracked it down to that for some reason I'm getting under voltage to required devices.

I am only getting 3.6v from key on circuit and 12v from constant source for the fuel pump relay. If I jumper 12 v to output both tank pumps work correctly.

I am only getting 8.7v from key on circuit for the TFI module to setup coil firing. again 12v from the constant source and good grounds.

I do not get any spark with or without spout and I have also bypassed inertia switch just to eliminate any possible weird issue there.


Any insight or help would be greatly appreciated.. thanks
this issue has consumed 2 of my weekends already.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 11:23 PM
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From: Deepwater Mo.
I can't tell you were to begin other then wow! No fuel and no fire? I'd recommend checking for error codes on your OBD-I reader. Here is a couple links that may or may not help.



Ford Ranger/Bronco II TFI Ignition Diagnostics

and here is another link for you..

Motor turns over but doesn't start
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 11:33 PM
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From: FORD COUNTRY --TEXAS--
Take off your distributer cap have someone crank it see if the rotor spins if it doesn't your timing chain is broken and engine wont start.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 08:01 AM
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From: Easton,Ks
Sounds like no load voltage checks.
Put the meter away and get a test light with a light bulb in it.
You will find you have no voltage where you got the low readings.
Does the engine crank?
Check the NEG (-) ground cable, does it go to the engine block (it does not go to the frame)?
Do you have a 10GA wire from the NEG (-) ground post to the Body (not the frame)?

If you have good grounds to the body and the block and it cranks unplug the computer and crank it and see if the spark returns.
If so ground pin #6 of the self-test plug and turn on the key. Does the selected fuel pump run?
 
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Old Jul 26, 2012 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by subford
Sounds like no load voltage checks.
Put the meter away and get a test light with a light bulb in it.
You will find you have no voltage where you got the low readings.
Does the engine crank?
Check the NEG (-) ground cable, does it go to the engine block (it does not go to the frame)?
Do you have a 10GA wire from the NEG (-) ground post to the Body (not the frame)?

If you have good grounds to the body and the block and it cranks unplug the computer and crank it and see if the spark returns.
If so ground pin #6 of the self-test plug and turn on the key. Does the selected fuel pump run?

The engine cranks great. I have large grounds to both frame and engine, also have new grounds from body to frame.

I have unpluged the spout still no spark.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2012 | 11:08 PM
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by CWPottenger
The engine cranks great. I have large grounds to both frame and engine, also have new grounds from body to frame.

I have unpluged the spout still no spark.
The ground goes from NEG post of the battery to the body and not from body to frame.

The frame does not need any grounds to the battery or the body. The only time the frame needs a ground is if you are pulling a trailer and you are using the frame of the truck for the ground return of the trailer.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2012 | 11:59 PM
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...and? More grounds won't hurt anything.

Sounds like you have an issue with your ignition switch, or some wires from the switch. Do your radio, heater, etc..work correctly?

Try running 12v directly to the TFI module and see if spark returns. I assume you have the proper wiring diagrams for the connectors?

Also check for +12v at the coil.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 11:59 PM
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I have grounds (new) from battery to engine, battery to body, battery to frame, frame to engine, frame to body. I put in all new grounds because when I bought truck they were either rotted off or major corrosion. I have 12v at coil on with key on. I have 12v on pin 3 at TFI with key on. Spout on and spout off no spark out. Also no fuel pump relay on.

everything else works. lights, radio, windows, gauges, turn signal, etc.

I'm just stumped because everything except engine works. Original failure just driving along engine shut down, would not restart. Put indifferent old coil fired up ran 5mins died, put in new spark plugs, wires, cap/rotor and coil. again fired up ran 3mins died, put in a new TFI again started ran 2mins died.. Every time I change something it will start and run about 3mins and never start again.

I appreciate the help this is really stumping me and frustrating me.

just for clarity when you guys say unplug computer do you mean the spout or actually take the huge harness off the computer(10mm bolt, large connector)

again thanks
 
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 12:13 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by zemus420
Take off your distributer cap have someone crank it see if the rotor spins if it doesn't your timing chain is broken and engine wont start.
did you ever try this^^^^?

also regarding the fuel, have you checked for fuel pressure at the fuel rail with key on?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 12:14 AM
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I suspect the PIP module inside your distributor has failed. You can replace the module itself, or replace the entire distributor.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 06:33 AM
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From: Easton,Ks
The Power Relay (Brown bottom) may be bad or the wiring under the relay may be bad.
Bad wiring under this relay is very common.

Check for power with the key on at the red wire at any fuel injector plug with a test light.
It sounds like the PCM Power Relay is not powering the red wire. This could also be that the fuse link at/near the battery coming off the Battery side of the starter relay is bad. This fuse link is powering the Yellow wire to the common contact on the Power relay. Check also that the Power relay clicks when the key is turned on.

If the fuel pumps run for one second when the key is just turned on then it is not the PIP sensor. Also it would not be the power relay and you would also have power on the red wire.

Yes I would try unplugging the big plug at the Computer to see if spark returns if the red wire at the fuel injectors have power with the key on. The SPOUT works for this most of the time but the computer could also be grounding the PIP wire.
Also with an unplugged computer you will not flood the engine with fuel while you try to find out why there is no spark.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 03:33 PM
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Thanks for all your help. I found that I had a faulty fuseable link over by the starter solenoid. wiggle it correct everything turned on and worked, wiggle again all shut down..


again thanks all for the ideas and help.
 
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