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I pulled a 2 barrel motorcraft carb off a 1973 F-100 with a V-8 (I don't have the carb number available right this second). It looks very similar to the Autolite 2100 from my 1968's 360. My question is...will this Motorcraft carb work on my '68...and what do I need to do to make it work right? I see extra vacuum lines (I understand I just need to get caps for these). The big problem I see is that there is what appears to be a small vacuum line for the autochoke. I wanted to be authentic and stick with the manual choke that my truck came with. On the other hand...if I do use the autochoke...where do I hook the copper tube that is attached to it? When I pulled the carb out of the 73, this pipe appears to have been disconnected.
Also, what is a choke takeoff? The motorcraft carb has it, but my autolite doesn't.
I'm not using the Autolite because I've given up on it. Two weeks of attempting to soak it in pentrating oil, and the throttle plate shaft is still jammed.
I pulled a 2 barrel motorcraft carb off a 1973 F-100 with a V-8 (I don't have the carb number available right this second). It looks very similar to the Autolite 2100 from my 1968's 360. My question is...will this Motorcraft carb work on my '68...and what do I need to do to make it work right? I see extra vacuum lines (I understand I just need to get caps for these). The big problem I see is that there is what appears to be a small vacuum line for the autochoke. I wanted to be authentic and stick with the manual choke that my truck came with. On the other hand...if I do use the autochoke...where do I hook the copper tube that is attached to it? When I pulled the carb out of the 73, this pipe appears to have been disconnected.
Also, what is a choke takeoff? The motorcraft carb has it, but my autolite doesn't.
I'm not using the Autolite because I've given up on it. Two weeks of attempting to soak it in pentrating oil, and the throttle plate shaft is still jammed.
It is a choke pull off & designed to pull the choke off when the thermostat weakens enough to allow it. Your Autolite doesn't have it because you have a manual choke on it. Does your choke have an attachment for a wire? You do not need the heat tube as long as you can hook a wire to it. If you don't go buy a choke stat that is electric. Run an ignition hot wire to it. If you want the manual choke just take the pieces from the old carb & convert your replacement with them to make it a manual choke.
The mounting bracket for the manual choke is removable from my Autolite and it looks like the mounting is the same as for the autochoke from the Motorlite. As I said, the only problem appears to be a small hole that appears to be a vacuum feed for the autochoke.
You might be able to use the manual choke. You might have to modify some things. I just did the conversion to a couple of 2100s on my roadster and the fast idle cam could not be fit, I just used a hand throttle for fast idle. Plus you have to change out the choke rod and the butterfly shaft because they are different on the manual choke. And that requires pulling the butterfly. Also don't forget to plug the vacuum port. It is right beside one of the screw holes that hold the choke housing on and is what pulls the hot air up that tube to the choke thermostat. When you remove the housing to convert to manual, that port will be open.
Now to clear up a couple things, the pull off actually cracks the choke open as soon as the engine starts, not after it warms up a little and if you use the electric choke stat it should run from the "S" terminal on the alternator (or regulator). That is stator voltage and about 9 volts. It will open too fast if you run it from 12 volts.