Carb Question
I have almost completed buying the goodies (intake, motor mounts, oil pan, etc.) needed to drop her between the frame rails. Here is my problem. . .
I know nothing about carbs. I purchased an aluminum Edelbrock Performer intake manifold for the new engine. (BTW, the engine is stock except for a Stage 2 cam kit. . .basically an RV cam for more low-end torque). I have been told to buy a carb in the 750 cfm range.(The truck will be a daily driver, occasionally towing my utility trailer or bass boat.)
The carb on the 351M currently in the truck is an Autolite/Ford 2150 with what appears to be a manual choke (no wires). I guess this means I should buy a 4-bbl carb with a manual choke too?
Again, sorry for my ignorance, but carbs are something I just never got into, or understood to any degree. Any help you guys can provide will be appreciated. Thanks.
When you buy the new carb, one with a electric choke, and it'll come with the wire you need. It'll just be a single wire you run to a switched + and your truck will be that much better mannered..
Where's the choke cable on your truck?
There isn't one, and there's no place for one in the dash.
Your carb was changed, how do I know that?
If the carb says Auto-Lite on it, it's a carb from 1972 or earlier.
Ford was forced to sell Auto-Lite by the US Gov't, who said they had a monoploy on auto parts.
So, in 1973, Ford started a new in-house company: Motorcraft.
Your truck would have had an electric choke originally. Some PO either clipped off the wire, or taped it to the engine gauge feed wiring harness.
Maybe I am not looking at my current carb correctly, or am simply using the wrong terminology. The choke does not have a cable that enters the cab. Never did as far as I know. The choke is set by stepping on the throttle once, prior to turning the key. The choke "gap" is adjusted by turning this round black thing that houses a coil spring. Is this considered a manual choke? I have also seen these "round black things" with electrical spade terminal connections on them, and I always assumed this was an electric choke. Am I correct here?
So, with this in mind, I should be shopping for a new 4-bbl with either an electric or automatic choke. Sound right?
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So, with this in mind, I should be shopping for a new 4-bbl with either an electric or automatic choke. Sound right?
I'm looking at the Ford parts catalog illustration of the Motorcraft 2V carb used 1975/79, and on that choke cover is a spade connector, for the choke wire to plug on to.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Here is what I bought for my truck a few years back to replace the one I broke. It was identical.
I am starting to see that it won't be a big deal to put a carb with an electric choke on the truck. Someone mentioned a PO (my dad) taping the original wire to the harness. . . .I do have such a wire. . . .always wondered what it was for. Thanks guys.
On the choke end, you can adjust how rich you want your choke by loosening the three screws on the side and twisting the spring in the cap tighter or looser (the black thing on the side of the carb). If you live where it gets really cold you want the choke plate on the top of the carb to close all the way with some LIGHT spring pressure on it when it is real cold outside. If you live in warmer climates you adjust the spring cap to just barely close with almost no spring pressure on it when it's cold outside. You then adjust your high idle rpm with the little screw underneath the black spring cap. I have mine set so that it high idles nice and low when cold (about 1300 rpm), then after a couple of minutes you just touch the throttle and the rpm returns to 700 (idle). Of course, in really cold climates the engine may not run at 1300 rpm when cold and you may have to set the cold idle speed a bit higher. Play with it a few times when it is stone cold and you will get it where it runs best. By the way, I now favor Holley's and Edlebrock carbs, I've used quadrajets and they have been a pain in the *** for me at least.

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