Would anyone know IF there is such a thing as a Heavy Duty Ball Joint for '92-'96 F150 2wd??
Mine need replacing due to mileage,wear, and noise (creeking)
Also how about a ball park price for all 4 installed?? Thanks!

 

I know that Napa and I think Auto Zone sell what they call heavy duty ball joints. They are a bit more expensive than the "regular" version. I cant remember what they cost since I ended up letting someone do it for me. I think you should be able to get them replaced by a local wrench for around $250. It cost me more like $350 because I used dealer labor and parts -- OUCH!

 

I just checked on ball joints at NAPA this morning. They have 2 lines, I assume a regular and high quality. The regulars for my '87 were $28 each, and the more expensive ones were $58 a piece, upper or lower. I'm not sure how much it would be to install them though.

 

Just did this on my 94 E 150. Same part. Go with Advance/Autozone. The parts are Moog treadsavers and they are greasable. The more expensive of the two at Napa should be the upper for 38 or 58. This is non greasable and is the original equipment hence the high price. I went with the Moogs and got them a local discounter here in maine for 21 and 23. The uppers are one that has the problem. Go to this page at carquest for a good picture. Just copy and paste in you browers address window. http://www.carquest.com/techbulletin...ver/PS1-95.pdf
It should cost about 100 dollars for all four. I did this myself and they are not that bad despite the horror stories. If you decide to do it you self I can give you some advice and you can have all four done in four hours or less.

 

Master Ride Chassis Ball Joint - Lower - Front Susp

MRC
104132
$ 19.69


I just checked the NAPA site to see what they listed and here is what I found.

Master Ride Chassis Ball Joint - Lower - Front Susp

MRC
104133
$ 21.49


NAPA Chassis Parts Ball Joint - Upper - Front Susp

NCP
2601309
$ 46.99


NAPA Chassis Parts Ball Joint - Lower -
NCP
2601310
$ 32.99

When I have asked at NAPA about the differance they have told me that the Master Ride Series is there brand that they use to compete with the discounters like advance. This makes me wonder if I should be buying the parts for the F 150. The suspension is the same as far as I can tell.

I guess at this point I would go with NAPA as I just like them better (great bobble head collection).

Good luck. They are not as bad as everyone says. I will work on posting my time saving tips for the ball joints.

 

The guy must have given me the list prices, not actually what I'd be paying for them. What all is involved in replacing ball joints? Which ones are greaseable, and which ones are not? And while I'm asking so many questions, does anyone have any experiece with adjustable camber bushings?

 

I believe that the Master Ride series are the greasable ones but I would ask to be sure. As for the pricing that comes off the NAPA online website. They do say that there are price variations based on the individual store. As for the Camber Bushings you buy them in differant degree increments 1degree, 1.5 degree etc. You can also buy a shim kit that will do the same thing but with spacers. I will put together some tips and post them.

 

That sounds right about the master rides, because the guy said that the expensive ones would be just like stock. I may just look into some Moog parts, but I don't know, I'll wait to see what you say. Thank you, and I await your reply.

 

Thanks guys for all the great replies and information!
It really helps me to make a descision on what to buy, I really want to buy some good ones and not change them ever again!
My old '78 F150 2wd has king pins that are original with 300k miles on them with very regular greasings, wish in a way my '94 had king pins, I've never understood why almost everyone I've ever spoken to cringes when talk about king pins comes up, I think they are probably alot more indestructable than ball joints.

 

I think that the moogs are a good choice. As far as what is involved you will need to remove the a arm from the frame. Get the Haynes manual if you don't already have it and it will describe the process for you. As for what I learned while doing it here goes.

First you will need some PB blaster or Liquid wrench. WD 40 will not work as it

 

Sorry I got interupted. Let me break it down what I learned by categories.

Tools -
You may need one pickle fork for the tie round ends and one for the ball joints. I used just the ball joint one and I was all set.

Standard and Metric Deep Sockets 1/2" inch drive. I have found the fasteners on my van to be about a 50/50 mix.

1/2" drive torque wrench. Indespensable and you can get one for about 20 bucks.

Air or electric impact wrench. Not used for what you think.

Ball joint press. Find a parts store that has a borrow program. These are very expensive other wise.

Snap ring pliers.

5/16 wrench. For installing the zerk fitting.

4 lb drilling hammer.

Anti sieze compound.

Silicone based dieletric grease. This is what Ford specifies for lubricating the caliper slide pins.

Bungee cord.

Parts

The ball joints of course.

The rubber covers for the tie rods as you will probably tear up the ones that are on there when you pull the tie rod down.

What to do.
Remove Wheels
Loosen the lugs while truck is on ground and then lift and place on jack stands. Don't forget to chock and put the parking brake on. You don't want to get squished. Remove both wheels and get them out of the way.

 

Sorry I got interuptted and I had to stop for a minute. I am going to divide it in to two categories.

First lets go with tools and parts.

The ball joints. They should have a zerk fitting and a boot in each box. The lower ones will also include a snap ring, castle nuts and cotter pin. The uppers will include a new collar bolt. I recommend replacing both. In order to do the uppers you have to remove the lowers so you might just as well do them now.


Tie rod boot covers. You will probably tear up the old ones.


Liquid Wrench of PB blaster. You need something that is a catalyst to help break the rust out.


Pickle fork. I got buy with just one; ball joint size. The tie rod ends are pretty good size and the fit isn't bad.


1/2" drive deep and metric sockets. I have found the suspension to be about a 50/50 mix of sizes.


Torque wrench and breaker bars. The longer the better for the breaker bars. 1/2 inch drive.


Silicone based dielectric grease. This is for the caliper slide pins. Ford reccomends that this be used on all brake parts and that no petroleum products touch any of the rubber components in the system.


5/16 wrench for the zerk fitting.


Grease gun and grease. You will need to grease the new ball joints when you install them.

Air or electric impact wrench. You are going to use this to drive the ball joints out using ....

A ball joint press. You can rent or borrow one from an autoparts store.

Anti sieze compound.

Bungee cords.

6 inch C clamp. To press the caliper piston back in for reassembly.

How to do it.

Start by removing the wheels.

Next remove the calipers. Note how the anti rattle clips are installed before you pull them because the pictures in the book are so so. Hang the calipers by the bungee cord out of the way.
Do not follow the book at this point. Leave the rotor/hub assembly intact. This will save you about an hour each side. It takes about an hour to disassemble clean and repack the assembly on each side. I would only take this apart if you plan to do the bearings either repack or replace. If you do take them apart make sure to buy NEW SEALS. They do not always fit as well when you put them back.

If you have ABS breaks find the wire that goes from the goes from the sensor on the dust shield to the chassis. Follow this wire to where it is clipped on the frame. There is a disconnect there. disconnect the wire from the system.

Now spray everything down liquid wrench.

Seperate the tie rod ends from the A arm using the pickle fork. The A arm will swing free when you are done.

Remove the collar bolt from the upper ball joint and the castle nut from the lower.

Again do not follow the book. Leave the camber adjuster in place and do not remove.

Whatever you do do not use heat. If you warp the assembly you may get it back on but you will never get a good alingment again.

Using the 4 lb hammer strike the inside of the A arm near the lower ball joint. You will need to put some a** behind it. You are going to drive the whole arm assembly ball joints and all right out. Now you can remove the Camber Adjuster. It will be a piece of cake. Mark where it is at by scratching a line where it goes. When you put it back in you can either put a light coat of grease or antiseize to make sure that it won't freeze up again.
You now need to remove the lower ball joint. Give it a good dose of wrench and then wipe the excess off the exterior. Remove the snap ring from the bottom of the lower joint. Now place the A arm in a vise. I have very large channel locks so I turned the ball joints left and right a little to break the rim of rust that is probably in there. Set up the bearing press. Now using your impact wrench drive the old ball joint out. Put the socket on the drive of the press and then the wrench to the socket and drive the he** out of it. It will still take a couple of minutes but it will come. After the lower one is out you do the same thing for the upper. I cleaned out seat area with an emery cloth when I was done.
You are now ready to replace the ball joints. I coated mine with a thin coat of grease, very thin almost just a film, to help them go in and to help prevent rust.

Replace the upper one first and then the lower. Install the zerk fitting and give them some grease.

Resinstall the A arm. Just reverse the process. Make sure that you reconnect the ABS sending unit line.

If I think of anything else I will be sure to let you know. The biggest thing is to patient and take your time.

 

Just a correction I should have used the term steerin Knuckle not A arm to refer to the assembly.