So I have a 96 f150 styleside. It's in generally very good shape but it has the traditional 11 O'clock passengerside and 1 O'clock drivers side rust spots on the bottom of the fender flare of the outside of the bed above the rear tires. The spots are about 4"-6" long and crest to about 2"-3" inches high in the middle of the affected area. Someone did a lousy bondo job on them in the past and they are starting to go.
I do not own a welder and I only need to replace about 6"-8" of the radius of the bottom of the flare above the rear wheel so I do not need to buy a large panel, weld it in and make more of it than I need to.
What I was thinking is that I could get a buddy to weld in a piece of metal to form the radius and return (by return I refer to the part that is parallel to the tread of the tire). That would be after removing all rust, old bondo and grinding everything back to good metal. Then I would take a fiberglass patch kit with the woven fiberglass patch, apply the patch, cut a few slices in it where it meets the radius so that it wont wrinkle when I wrap it around the radius, fiberglass that in, then sand it. Then skim coat with bondo, sand it in nice, hit it up with tinted primer, get the paint code from the door and finish it off.
Has anyone else done this and are there tips, tricks or cautions that I should take into consideration? Or is this method just asking for more trouble?
Thanks in advance for any imput, I have never done body work before.
Phil

 

It depends how you want it to look when it's done. I'm not following your procedure exactly, but there is a reason why a good shop will fix it the right way. Also, you will have to clear at least the entire side of the bed if you want it to look right.

 

It seems like it would be alot easier to just use a patch panel. Even if you had to have someone else weld it in place. 39.95 from LMC to fix the fenderwell.
LMC Truck Parts - Page 26

 

You may be driving up for this one... Shops open to you but my time is limited this part of the year. ~If~ you want to pull the bed and leave it for a week or so (could be up to two) it can be made near new again. Ill talk to Mike about painting/clearing it but Ill do the patch for you. I wont paint it or we wont be friends anymore lol... Im sure mike will shoot and clear it for cost + 2 bills for me depending on his availability. Crap time of year to eat up personal time. Ill get a price and let you know...

Thats if you decide to do it the right way. I know cash talks ...

 

I only need to replace about 6" by 2" of the top of the arch above the tire. I'm not going to put an entire 4' panel on to do that. If I had to form the whole arch I would but not for just a small piece when. A piece of stout but flexible 1/2" wide steel will flex to the contour of the arch perfectly if it is overlapped down the existing sides of the arch, then I can just fiberglass to that. Or I can get rid of 90% of the problem just by putting on xlt style chrome arch trim, then just fill the small section above it.
BTW did anyone else check out some of the prices of the parts on those pages that Evan P sent? $349 for the rear crossmember under the back of the bed! For that Money I'd have a buddy weld in some angle Iron and drill out the holes myself Yikes! I may yet do that instead of buying new crossmembers under the bed when those go.
@ Bankrupter, I appreciate the offer man. You have always been exceptionally kind and helpful, but I think I am going to learn how to do body work myself even if it takes a couple of attempts.
anyone got a tip or trick on the cheesy side of body repair?

 

You don't have to use the entire patch panel, you could cut out just the part you need...

It may take more than you think to get rid of the rust, and you will need to get rid of ALL the rust or you are just wasting time and materials...

 

I did find these pretty cheap:
DriveWire - Wheel Arch Repair Panel

But I REALLY did not want to get into welding in patched for a minor fix.

 

shipping and handling is $11 each so 31X2 =$62 for the repair pieces delivered. I am going to try the fiberglass and bondo for $30 total, If it looks like sh** then I'll have to kick down for the panels or give it another try with the remaining patch supplies.

 

K all good just lmk if you decided to do it all out. the paint offer stands if you need it. Mike is a pro in my pocket... just say the word.

 

Replace the whole panel. If you have rust in a 2x6 section the rest is right behind it. If not, you will do a 2x6 repair and in 2 months right next to it will be rusty and you WASTED your time

 

Agreed. It costs more to do it twice than it does to do it the right way.

 

Good idea rather than patch panels. Question is, has anyone here ever installed these and how is the quality of the body lines sharpness, line-up, etc?
Roger

 

I have, many times. I can replace 2 bedsides in a weekend and it is a FAR SUPERIOR repair to a patch. The fit is pretty good, even for aftermarket parts.
I glue them, NOT weld them on

 

+1 on glue. Seals them up tight and no warping less body work time.

 

And no where to start RUST!!!!