Stuck alternator bracket bolt
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 331
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From: Courtenay, BC, Canada
Stuck alternator bracket bolt
Help!
I have a 1991 econoline 250 with a multipoint fuel injected 300 (4.9 l) inline six. Oh, yeah its got a propane conversion.
The head gasket needs replacement, so I went to the local parts store and got a head gasket kit and started in on the job. I managed to get the intake manifold (all two pieces of it) off the head. I got the rear exhaust manifold off with its goofy exhaust gas recirculation pipe on it.
I am stuck up at the front of the motor. I took out the alternator, its on the passenger side, to get at the last exhaust manifold bolt that runs through the alternator mounting bracket. Sandwiched between the alternator bracket and the exhaust manifold is a 13/16" nut. I can't budge it. Does anyone out there have any helpful advice for moving this last nut. Is there a specialty tool?
Thanks in advance for reading this post.
I have a 1991 econoline 250 with a multipoint fuel injected 300 (4.9 l) inline six. Oh, yeah its got a propane conversion.
The head gasket needs replacement, so I went to the local parts store and got a head gasket kit and started in on the job. I managed to get the intake manifold (all two pieces of it) off the head. I got the rear exhaust manifold off with its goofy exhaust gas recirculation pipe on it.
I am stuck up at the front of the motor. I took out the alternator, its on the passenger side, to get at the last exhaust manifold bolt that runs through the alternator mounting bracket. Sandwiched between the alternator bracket and the exhaust manifold is a 13/16" nut. I can't budge it. Does anyone out there have any helpful advice for moving this last nut. Is there a specialty tool?
Thanks in advance for reading this post.
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Joined: Jun 2011
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when i had to take the alt. off my f150, the bottom/long thru bolt had siezed to the housing. i was able to pivot it [the alt] back and forth enough to get to the bolts that hold the bracket to the engine block. had to remove airpump too.
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 307
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From: South Florida
Ran into that myself.
Try 6point socket, 1/2" drive.
If the head get rounded, these work really well.
Super price on Irwin / Hanson / Vise Grip 394002 at ToolTopia.com
Try 6point socket, 1/2" drive.
If the head get rounded, these work really well.
Super price on Irwin / Hanson / Vise Grip 394002 at ToolTopia.com
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Courtenay, BC, Canada
Here's a short video of what I'm up against. I ended up taking the radiator out of the van so I could reach the air pump/alternator bracket.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/1aBggUftKpg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Sorry guys, I think I swore one time under my breath in this vid. If it's a problem I will remove it.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/1aBggUftKpg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Sorry guys, I think I swore one time under my breath in this vid. If it's a problem I will remove it.
Last edited by HardkaseDaddy; Jul 9, 2012 at 08:33 PM. Reason: oops!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Courtenay, BC, Canada
so what's a rebuild on my head likely to run me?
It's just a stock cast iron head. I've heard prices as low as $40 (sounds kinda low) and as high as $300 when I've searched the forums. I have a frozen bolt at the thermostat housing and some pitting on the intake/exhaust manifold face of the head. I don't think the head is warped or cracked after my visual inspection of it.
It's just a stock cast iron head. I've heard prices as low as $40 (sounds kinda low) and as high as $300 when I've searched the forums. I have a frozen bolt at the thermostat housing and some pitting on the intake/exhaust manifold face of the head. I don't think the head is warped or cracked after my visual inspection of it.
Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2012
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Mind your beeswax!!!!
This will sound totally crazy, but ANY frozen fastener, bolt,nut whatever, gives up easily with beeswax.I bought a pure bees wax candle ,from a health food store, but as long as it is real bees wax, it will work.
Heat the area up, that is siezed, apply the candle, and let the wax run down the threads.It will penetrate better than anything else, and then easily come apart.
This tip is courtesy of my brother in law,(machinist), and I took off 4 nuts that had been out in the rain, on a tractor exhaust,that were so corroded they were virtually unrecognizable.
You will be as amazed as I was , when you try it.I think mother nature knows best.
Heat the area up, that is siezed, apply the candle, and let the wax run down the threads.It will penetrate better than anything else, and then easily come apart.
This tip is courtesy of my brother in law,(machinist), and I took off 4 nuts that had been out in the rain, on a tractor exhaust,that were so corroded they were virtually unrecognizable.
You will be as amazed as I was , when you try it.I think mother nature knows best.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 331
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From: Courtenay, BC, Canada
This will sound totally crazy, but ANY frozen fastener, bolt,nut whatever, gives up easily with beeswax.I bought a pure bees wax candle ,from a health food store, but as long as it is real bees wax, it will work.
Heat the area up, that is siezed, apply the candle, and let the wax run down the threads.It will penetrate better than anything else, and then easily come apart.
This tip is courtesy of my brother in law,(machinist), and I took off 4 nuts that had been out in the rain, on a tractor exhaust,that were so corroded they were virtually unrecognizable.
You will be as amazed as I was , when you try it.I think mother nature knows best.
Heat the area up, that is siezed, apply the candle, and let the wax run down the threads.It will penetrate better than anything else, and then easily come apart.
This tip is courtesy of my brother in law,(machinist), and I took off 4 nuts that had been out in the rain, on a tractor exhaust,that were so corroded they were virtually unrecognizable.
You will be as amazed as I was , when you try it.I think mother nature knows best.
bees wax eh? I'll have to try it. Thanks for the info.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 367
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From: Plover, WI
so what's a rebuild on my head likely to run me?
It's just a stock cast iron head. I've heard prices as low as $40 (sounds kinda low) and as high as $300 when I've searched the forums. I have a frozen bolt at the thermostat housing and some pitting on the intake/exhaust manifold face of the head. I don't think the head is warped or cracked after my visual inspection of it.
It's just a stock cast iron head. I've heard prices as low as $40 (sounds kinda low) and as high as $300 when I've searched the forums. I have a frozen bolt at the thermostat housing and some pitting on the intake/exhaust manifold face of the head. I don't think the head is warped or cracked after my visual inspection of it.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Courtenay, BC, Canada
thanks kas for the info. It looks like it was just the head gasket.
The head is getting tanked and tweeked at the machine shop. fortunately no problems were found when the head was magnafluxed.
The head is getting tanked and tweeked at the machine shop. fortunately no problems were found when the head was magnafluxed.