Well I hope this is what you are talking about. Because I have alot time in making a drain hole in the new Clevite 03036 since it did NOT have one. Like the one that is installed in the pump upside down.


Oil return notch which should be at the TOP lined up with the return hole.



I had to make my own return notch Clevite 03036 because it did NOT come with one.

[IMG]https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=27228&pictureid=104101[/IMG

Like I had said earlier Dino from T.C.T. sent me to Sun trans in Gary,IN. and they are going to install new and align the pump. They also have a 3 disc coast drum I wish I had the money I would buy it and put my new piston and discs in it. My rebuild kit came with 3 steels/clutchs. Because I only have the 2 disc coast drum and I ready went to trouble of buying a sizing retainer ring and have the specs I want. I just wish I had the money and time or I would do that upgrade NOW.

I guess I'll just wish in one hand and s**** in the othe hand and see which one fills up first!!

 

That's exactly what I had to do with mine. I did that after the third time the seal blew out and almost 20,000 miles later it is still holding strong.

Another lesson I learned the hard way is to be 100% sure the torque converter is pushed in all the way. The front pump has a tendency to hold up on the converter after it is put back together. When you reinstall the transmission the converter should sit back slightly from the flex plate when the trans is bolted to the engine.

 

Now as you can see from the photo of the new seal that is installed that it is a black Viton. And the one I got to replace it is the brown viton seal and Joey at Sun trans said " You don't want to install that because they blow out." And was saying that the black viton seals have a coating on the outside of the seal where it mates with the pump to help hold it in. And he had one in stock and I said go ahead and put it in instead of the brown one. So do you remember what kind of seals were blowing out on you ? And are you running the black seal now?

Thank you for pointing that out about the t.c. I have heard of guys also damaging their t.c. and pump by not installing it correctly. That scares me so I'll double ..OK triple check the t.c. before bolting up. Also I was thinking about installing the pump on the torque converter on the bench. That way I can clock the notchs in the pump gears to 12 o clock and 6 o clock before installing the pump in trans and make sure the stator goes in correctly. This new billet cover t.c. is 8lbs heavier so the guy who built says. It feels heavier than that. This way I'll know where the pump notchs are and all I have to do is look at the t.c. before installing. I'm not installing the torque converter until it is on the jack. Besides the the hardest part of the install for me is getting the trans on the jack since I have to do it alone.

 

My Transtec gasket set came with a NOK 37012 pump seal, which is the updated version, that you described.

Just be sure the pilot on the torque converter is below the front of case mounting surface and it will be seated properly. I used a small piece of metal strap to hold the TC in place. I bolted the strap up to one of the dust cover holes on the case and bent it to push back against the TC.

BTW, I looked at my oem pump bushing (yep; still have it, along with other trans parts, saved in a couple of 5 gallon buckets ) and it has only one small notch and is on the edge at the start of the worm track. I don't recall what my replacement one looked like. There seems to be a few variations.

 

The seals that kept blowing out were the brown factory replacements. After the third one I found the right guy at the parts counter that told me about the updated version.

 

I just wanted to backup Roland on what he said about the Transtec #37012. That is actually the only seal you should install. Because the brown Viton seals are JUNK!!! Joey at Sun Trans was telling and showing me the differents in the 2 seals and the redesign of the #37012 is so much better than the stock seal.

The things we learn along the way !

 

Thanks Guy's Really good stuff here! I would have to be a moron to screw this up... OOPS shouldn't have said anything...

When I got my truck It shifted rather harshly. Like it had some kind of a "drag race" transmission. Just as I was fixing some very weird things the previous owner did to this "perfectly good truck".

One of the problems included blowing a fuse to the tail lamps & dash lights. Someone had disconnected the very annoying door/key buzzer. It was intermittently shorting out under the dash.

After I hooked it back up correctly, it shifted as smooth as silk. I saw the hard shifting problem in another thread last night and forgot to "chime in". I'll get used to this site in no time though...

 

I am familiar with "Viton" because I use "Viton " tipped float bowl needles in my Norton motorcycles. I have never seen a brown one yet.

http://www.britcycle.com/products/69..._197_small.jpg

Thank you for the heads up!

 

Where can I get this seal? Transtec #37012. Would it be possible to get it overnighted? I would also need tha tailshaft seal and may as well order them together.

 

Hey thanks for the help, I got the transtec viton seal & bushing and tail shaft bushing. My engine overheated then the tranny started spwewing. Hopefully I didn't screw anything up.

I kind of figured the hole would not be against the seal, but no telling what I will find. Nothing would suprise me after some of the fixes, I already discovered.

I replaced the Radiator, thermostat 180, and added a Hayden Stainless flex fan. And all the hoses. I thought a freeze plug behind the power steering pump could have leaked at one time or another.

So going with my "gut" I spent a good 3-4 hours drilling and digging that SOB out. Then it finally popped out I was happy I did it. It was right along the top edge before I got it out. I'm glad my time wasn't wasted

 

http://images.sodahead.com/profiles/...087132114.jpeg

I thought this sucker it too thick to be leaking while I was fighting with it.

Another angle shows to tiny little holes

http://images.sodahead.com/profiles/...087242379.jpeg

After all that I was glad to see those holes...

 

Sorry for an old and late update of the thread. For those who might be interested trans and seals are still holding up very well.
"Good to Go"
Here is a photo of the mock up of TC, pump and input shaft. There is alot of money in the pump and t.c and it was money well spent.

Also as in keeping with the thread being about pump bushing make sure to use Loctite 640 and pin the bushing also to avoid a spun bushing down the road.