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Radiator swap problem w/quick disconnect

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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 03:52 AM
  #1  
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Question Radiator swap problem w/quick disconnect

Hey guys I've got a 2005 Ford F350 6.0 Diesel Dually Crew Cab

I did read up on instructions on a rad swap back in 12/2010 - very helpful, thanks!

My problem is this: M-chan68/Mike had said:
"Disconnect the lower rad hose and the two transmission fluid cooler lines (on 2005 and up models, you'll need the line release tool). Once done, the rad simply lifts up and out with plenty of room to spare. "

I'm having a HELLUVA hard time disconnecting those trani fluid cooler lines! I bought the quick disconnect tool, but it wouldn't fit between the little *bump* in the line & the disconnect...it's about 1/2" space for the tool (my tool's plastic). I even shaved off part of the plastic tool, beveled it again like it had originally been & still won't work! I read somewhere else that the fuel & a/c disconnect tools won't work because of this ridge in the line so you have to get the actual trani cooler line disconect like this:
Buy OTC 2 PIece Ford Transmission Cooler Line Disconnect Set OTC6593 at Advance Auto Parts

But, that looks just as wide as the one I've got!?

Yes, I'm a girl. But I've done plenty of work on this friggin truck only to have these 2 cooler lines make me so ticked off, I wanna toss the truck over the side of a very high bridge & watch it go *BOOM* That's probably the girl in me, eh?

ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated!! TIA

~Cindy

<!-- / message -->
 
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 04:16 PM
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Welcome to FTE
I wonder it the tabs are now too short now.
One thing you can try is some sheet plastic
the heavy stiff. bevel the edge and try to slid it in
to open the fitting up. Also compress the fitting some
when you do get a tool in there. It is much harder to take
apart with under some force. I have taken apart many fuel lines
and they can be a pain too id you are not pushing then into
each other while you push the tool in.
Also take a short break to do some thing to get your mind off
this problem and then you will have a cooler head when you go back
to it and won't be looking for the C4 universal disassembly tool

I went to aircraft mechanics schooling with a few girls.
They were just as good as most of the guys and better than the rest.
Let us know how this goes.

Sean
 
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 08:00 PM
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How badly rusted are the lines? Being from Illinois, on a truck that age it wouldn't surprise me one bit if they are rusted and seized into the fittings. First off, lots of PB Blaster might help. Second, try removing the fitting itself from the rad and working with it while the line is free. (DO ONLY ONE LINE AT A TIME. DO NOT REMOVE BOTH FITTINGS FROM THE RAD AT THE SAME TIME, OR THE RAD IS JUNK)
 
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by cinner74
Hey guys I've got a 2005 Ford F350 6.0 Diesel Dually Crew Cab

I did read up on instructions on a rad swap back in 12/2010 - very helpful, thanks!

My problem is this: M-chan68/Mike had said:
"Disconnect the lower rad hose and the two transmission fluid cooler lines (on 2005 and up models, you'll need the line release tool). Once done, the rad simply lifts up and out with plenty of room to spare. "

I'm having a HELLUVA hard time disconnecting those trani fluid cooler lines! I bought the quick disconnect tool, but it wouldn't fit between the little *bump* in the line & the disconnect...it's about 1/2" space for the tool (my tool's plastic). I even shaved off part of the plastic tool, beveled it again like it had originally been & still won't work! I read somewhere else that the fuel & a/c disconnect tools won't work because of this ridge in the line so you have to get the actual trani cooler line disconect like this:
Buy OTC 2 PIece Ford Transmission Cooler Line Disconnect Set OTC6593 at Advance Auto Parts

But, that looks just as wide as the one I've got!?

Yes, I'm a girl. But I've done plenty of work on this friggin truck only to have these 2 cooler lines make me so ticked off, I wanna toss the truck over the side of a very high bridge & watch it go *BOOM* That's probably the girl in me, eh?

ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated!! TIA

~Cindy

<!-- / message -->

Well Mike, How'd you screw this one up?? LOL
 
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 11:25 PM
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From: Central IL
Originally Posted by m-chan68
How badly rusted are the lines? Being from Illinois, on a truck that age it wouldn't surprise me one bit if they are rusted and seized into the fittings. First off, lots of PB Blaster might help. Second, try removing the fitting itself from the rad and working with it while the line is free. (DO ONLY ONE LINE AT A TIME. DO NOT REMOVE BOTH FITTINGS FROM THE RAD AT THE SAME TIME, OR THE RAD IS JUNK)
No rust at all on the fittings or lines (or truck for that matter) - thankfully bought it in Florida just a few months ago

I think if I was actually able to find one of these tools in METAL instead of plastic, I might have a chance...the plastic (even after I trimmed it to fit inbetween the fitting & the "ridge" on the line) seems still to be too thick to even start wedging into the space to disconnect. I will go ahead & soak it with the PB blaster tho & give it another shot- that stuff has saved me many a time! As for removing the fitting itself - didn't even know that was possible! I'll try that too if all else fails...thanls for the warning anout not taking them both off @ once...otherwise u KNOW that's exactly what I'd do! LOL TIA
 
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 11:31 PM
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From: Central IL
Originally Posted by Yahiko
Welcome to FTE
I wonder it the tabs are now too short now.
One thing you can try is some sheet plastic
the heavy stiff. bevel the edge and try to slid it in
to open the fitting up. Also compress the fitting some
when you do get a tool in there. It is much harder to take
apart with under some force. I have taken apart many fuel lines
and they can be a pain too id you are not pushing then into
each other while you push the tool in.
Also take a short break to do some thing to get your mind off
this problem and then you will have a cooler head when you go back
to it and won't be looking for the C4 universal disassembly tool

I went to aircraft mechanics schooling with a few girls.
They were just as good as most of the guys and better than the rest.
Let us know how this goes.

Sean
Thanks Sean - I'll try finding some stiff plastic sheeting & see if I can jerry-rig it open. Yeah, I even tried compressing the fitting while I was messing with it...no dice. Don't think at that point that I didn't have a fleeting thought of taking the hammer to it! Damn fittings! Grrrr....I LOVE the thought of your C4 universal disassebly tool though...might have to borrow it!
 
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 02:44 AM
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From: Spanaway
I live so close to Fort Lewis and McChord AFB
that I bet I could find some. (NOT) I have a temper
and tend to blow my stack now and then. I try to not do it
when anyone is around to see me look stupid. I did get smarter
with age and have not damaged a car/truck in
a very long time.
But it would be fun once to just blow some really bad car into
very small parts.

Sean
 
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 08:35 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
How badly rusted are the lines? Being from Illinois, on a truck that age it wouldn't surprise me one bit if they are rusted and seized into the fittings. First off, lots of PB Blaster might help. Second, try removing the fitting itself from the rad and working with it while the line is free. (DO ONLY ONE LINE AT A TIME. DO NOT REMOVE BOTH FITTINGS FROM THE RAD AT THE SAME TIME, OR THE RAD IS JUNK)


BINGO!!! We are from IL. We use more freakin salt on the roads than asphalt

I had one that was leaking(drivers side) and ended up buying a new line, cutting it and using a compression fitting to finish the job. It's not under pressure and it's been dry for a year or so. Sooner or later I will have to buy a Radiator...
 
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 08:37 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by cinner74
No rust at all on the fittings or lines (or truck for that matter) - thankfully bought it in Florida just a few months ago

I think if I was actually able to find one of these tools in METAL instead of plastic, I might have a chance...the plastic (even after I trimmed it to fit inbetween the fitting & the "ridge" on the line) seems still to be too thick to even start wedging into the space to disconnect. I will go ahead & soak it with the PB blaster tho & give it another shot- that stuff has saved me many a time! As for removing the fitting itself - didn't even know that was possible! I'll try that too if all else fails...thanls for the warning anout not taking them both off @ once...otherwise u KNOW that's exactly what I'd do! LOL TIA

You're a lucky man! You definitely need the metal tool versus the plastic one.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by sammy77
You're a lucky man! You definitely need the metal tool versus the plastic one.
WOman, but thanks

Now, where in the heck do I find the metal one?? The only metal ones I can find are for the fuel or A/C & then we run into the problem of them being too wide to fit between the fitting & the *bump* on the line...the PB Blaster didn't help so into town I go tomorrow to see if I can sweet talk borrowing a metal one from a Ford mechanic at the local dealership...crossing fingers!
 
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cinner74
WOman, but thanks

Now, where in the heck do I find the metal one?? The only metal ones I can find are for the fuel or A/C & then we run into the problem of them being too wide to fit between the fitting & the *bump* on the line...the PB Blaster didn't help so into town I go tomorrow to see if I can sweet talk borrowing a metal one from a Ford mechanic at the local dealership...crossing fingers!
Well honey, good luck with that one because I AM a Ford mechanic who will tell you that a metal tool for this application does NOT exist. Because if it were, I would have one by now. I can't tell you how many times our tranny tech has asked to borrow mine to use on every 2009 and newer Escape has had to remove a tranny that uses the exact same style fitting for the cooler lines, and I have both the Ford/Rotunda one that I've already broken one, as well as two of the aftermarket ones that I bought out-of-pocket to use for all the cab-off repairs I've been doing on these trucks. The question now becomes WHY you need to remove the lines from the rad. Are you replacing the rad?
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
Well honey, good luck with that one because I AM a Ford mechanic who will tell you that a metal tool for this application does NOT exist. Because if it were, I would have one by now. I can't tell you how many times our tranny tech has asked to borrow mine to use on every 2009 and newer Escape has had to remove a tranny that uses the exact same style fitting for the cooler lines, and I have both the Ford/Rotunda one that I've already broken one, as well as two of the aftermarket ones that I bought out-of-pocket to use for all the cab-off repairs I've been doing on these trucks. The question now becomes WHY you need to remove the lines from the rad. Are you replacing the rad?
LOL! THAT explains why I haven't found one!

Yup, a ditch tried to pull my poor radiator out without my permission...along with the blocker bar...oops. My bad. SO, gotta take it in to be tested

I WILL say that after pulling the poor BUMPER off, then the blocker...it leaves lots of room to check everything else out & the bumper gave the hubby something to pound on with the hammer to work out his frustration w/yours truely **insert the angel w/crooked halo smiley here!**
 

Last edited by cinner74; Jul 9, 2012 at 03:01 AM. Reason: added details
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by cinner74
WOman, but thanks

Now, where in the heck do I find the metal one?? The only metal ones I can find are for the fuel or A/C & then we run into the problem of them being too wide to fit between the fitting & the *bump* on the line...the PB Blaster didn't help so into town I go tomorrow to see if I can sweet talk borrowing a metal one from a Ford mechanic at the local dealership...crossing fingers!

Sorry about that. This is the one I used a few times now.


Assenmacher Specialty Tools , 8023 Oil Cooler Line Disconnect Tool - Ford 6.0L Turbo Diesel
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by sammy77
No prob

Well I talked to the local dealership ford mechanic...your tool looks exactly like the one he pulled out of his toolbox, with the "lip" broken off, saying he usually goes thru about 1 every other time of using it...

Pulled out his pick set, saying he actually has better luck using 2- 90degree-bend picks with better success - which was the next thing I'd planned on trying (I'd read the same thing on another forum), if all else failed. So, I guess that's what I'll be trying in the morning!

The rest of my parts will be in on Wednesday so as long as I can get that rad pulled tomorrow morning, I might be able to have it all back together by this weekend...depending on what the rad testing shows....barring I can get the damn thing OUT! GOTTA get this done before 7/18, need to use the truck for family vacation (pull a 5th wheel) or kiddos are gonna burn me at the stake!

Thanks again you guys for all ur help!!
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cinner74
Well I talked to the local dealership ford mechanic...your tool looks exactly like the one he pulled out of his toolbox, with the "lip" broken off, saying he usually goes thru about 1 every other time of using it...
HA!!! I'm glad I'm not the only one who has gone through several of those tools. For a while I thought I was being too aggressive with it, but I guess not.

Originally Posted by cinner74
Pulled out his pick set, saying he actually has better luck using 2- 90degree-bend picks with better success - which was the next thing I'd planned on trying (I'd read the same thing on another forum), if all else failed. So, I guess that's what I'll be trying in the morning!
I've never thought of trying that method but to be honest with you, I'm of the opinion that you run the risk of destroying the fitting by trying that, if you get too aggressive. If you ruin the fitting(s), you'll have to buy a whole new rad. If you ruin the line(s), at least the line(s) will likely be cheaper than the rad. I'll price them out tomorrow to be sure.

Originally Posted by cinner74
The rest of my parts will be in on Wednesday so as long as I can get that rad pulled tomorrow morning, I might be able to have it all back together by this weekend...depending on what the rad testing shows....barring I can get the damn thing OUT! GOTTA get this done before 7/18, need to use the truck for family vacation (pull a 5th wheel) or kiddos are gonna burn me at the stake!
What parts? What are we doing to it, that we need to remove the rad?
 
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