Good to hear.
Most owners never realize how deeply complex their computer control system operates everything and it's won't get any better soon, only worse.
Look at the 2013 truck and what they are offering now.
Just think when that model ages and the owner has to repair it.
You have to have a good job just to keep up with repairs on these 97 03 years.
Good luck.

 

That creme colored box is the factory keyless module for the keyfobs and keypad on the door. The 5 digit code is the factory door access code. I'm glad you got it sorted out. I guess the only problem was a loose ground cable at the battery? It would prob be a good idea to change the terminals or at least take the cables off them and thoroughly clean the wires. I call those replacement battery terminals "come-back cables" because it seems they loose connection after a few months and the car ends up getting towed back to the shop.

 

The replacement battery cable terminal was put on by the Ford dealer mechanic. The previous terminal was a bit large for the new battery. So he swapped it out.

It seems that it was the alarm disconnection that fixed the engine kill issue.

The battery cable was tight after the dealer "fixed" it. And then the engine kill still happened.

Time will tell. So far it is looking good.

Now I remember why I liked my 69 VW so much. Simple to work on and cheap to fix. I may be going back to one soon if this keeps up.

 

You made me laugh reading about the pats system. I too thought the pats system was foolproof till I saw a ford truck and how auto thieves bypassed it. They simply shear the pins in the ignition lock and position the lock cylinder in the run position. Then the hood is opened and with a screwdriver they jump across the solenoid and start the vehicle and away they go. period. All pats does is not allow power to go to the solenoid. I didnt believe it till I saw it in person.

 

Respectfully:
Don't know what you saw and on what vehichle but it's not true that Pats prevents power to the start solenoid.
You have no idea at this time that PATS transmits a data set to the PCM to match software word bits to either allow the motor to start or not.
Pats has nothing to do with the start solenoid.
Don't believe it, research the PATS system to see.
Your passing on something you saw but did not understand.
Also please consider the following common sense; obviously if the ignition switch were 'mutilated' the motor could not be cranked over so getting under the hood would have to be done to shunt the starter relay. Power is there full time to do this waiting for the signal the ignition switch sends, in the start position.
Good luck.

 

Some Ford PATS systems include a starter interrupt, others do not. See http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...ts_job_aid.pdf

As BG7 politely indicated, you are mistaken. The PATS system, when triggered, prevents the injectors from operating under software control.

 

I dunno'.....If you shear the pins so the lock barrel will turn to the run position, it will also continue to the crank position. So why would they bother to pop the hood and short the solenoid? Without the code being transmitted from the key to the ECM, how would the injectors fire?


On a side note my Mustang developed a hard miss. I hooked up my scanner...misfire on #5. Checked that area and found at some point the PO had a auto start installed. They bumped into the injector with a wire to feed a signal back to the after market alarm. All they did was cut the wire, twist them together, and put a small piece of tape on it. Basically it fell apart. Just info. since this thread is kind of alarm related. Also if you only get one PATS key if you buy used, look under the dash for the remains of an auto-start. If you see a small black box that is obviuosly aftermarket, open it up. That's where my second PATS key was. That box uses the key to simulate a key in the ignition so the remote start will work.

 

If a good car theif wants your f150 PATS in not going to stop them. If there's a will there's always a way.

 

The only way a thief will drive a PATS vehicle away is if they happened to have a very expensive programmer and flash the computer with a PATS disable tune. But that is way beyond the scope of your average - and probably experienced thief as well.

These days if they can't get it started, they'll just take as much as they can off the vehicle, or get a buddy with a tow truck and tow it away.

 

Of course, that's what tow trucks are for. PATS prevents the drive-away theft.

 

I thought impossible till I saw it with my own eyes. Truck was an early 2000s ford excursion, and yes it was starting without a chipped key and the starter solenoid under hood was only because the starter would not engage with the key, only lights on the dash would go on. The excursion uses a chipped key where the pickups at the time didnt.

 

It would appear you were hoodwinked since 1) the Excursion didn't use a starter interrupt in the PATS system and 2) by 1999, all 1/2 ton F150s had PATS installed. Only the Super Duty trucks didn't get PATS until much later.

See the Ford PATS chart I linked to.

 

Regarding original post here. As of 7-14-2012, the truck has been starting and remaining running without any further issues thus far.

So it appears it was an alarm system malfunction that was the culprit. Disconnecting the alarm wire taps under the dash has apparently solved the problem.

If the problem returns, I will post an update.

 

Hello Everyone!! I noticed this post trying to search for answers for a very similar issue Eric had......... minus the aftermark alarm. And hoping for more insight or direction.

I have a 2004 Excursion 6.0 with 242k.... have owned the vehicle a week... never once had a problem starting it.

Took a trip to the city museum, drove back home to drop my sister off at her house, left her drive way and about 10 seconds later my diesel just shut off(no I didnt turn the vehicle off while at her house so no delayed shut off). I go to try and turn the vehicle back on to start and the THEFT light is blinking rapidly. Glow ignitor just stays on for an extended period of time but no ability to start....

Now I've tried the whole reset thing,,, wait till the light frequency slows down,, turn off,,, wait,,, put key in,, etc,,,,,,, I've tried the leave the negative cable off for hours and hours,,,,, reconnect,,, and still a fast THEFT light.....checked the battery voltage, gtg,,,,,,,,,, I've checked all fuses,,,, switched pcm relay,,, etc,,, no go! I even tried connecting a code snatcher up and it refuses to connect and pull the vehicle info.... really!@#? lol

So I'm getting a PATS theft signal..... but the problem originated while driving and shut off so it cant be by design,, yet it now defaults to a PATS indicator... I've done my research and have also heard the PCM may be the culprit.

Any help or suggestions? I've seen this issue around and this seems to be the best place to get the answers for everyone and so when people have this problem in the future they can find this post. lol

 

I'd recommend trying the Excursion forum personally.

If you can't pull the codes or even get your scan tool to communicate, this seems to indicate a PCM failure or the PCM is not getting power.