Not that long ago someone had a thread going about the IH water pump install. I can't remember who it was. If you have it saved can you post a link to it.

Thanks Mike

 

Could this be the one you are looking for?

 

No that's not it but thanks for looking.

The one I'm looking for is for the IH pump with built in coolant filter. You have to grind a spot down on the pump to use it. I need a thread/write up showing where I need to grind.

 

The spot to grind on it is for the tensioner pulley.

I remember the thread you were talking about.

 

I thought I had it, but I do not.

The install was bolt up except or the spot to grind for the pulley.

 

Yeah I know what thread you are talking about I thought that one was it... I just didnt wanna search all the way through it to confirm :P

Sorry ill look some more on lunch break

 

Grind, longer bolts, and different lower hose.

Can you point out what/where to grind
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=93174865725

 

I think it was Jim that said you use a lower hose for a Dodge but I'm not sure

 

Look here

Changing water pump on OBS. Should I upgrade to IH with built-in filter? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 

Got one it's for a SD but should be the same



Is this what you're talking about?

Taken from another thread; posted by TARM:

The T444E pump fits and does so with the PS pump with no clearance issues at all. The only things that are different or out of the norm from any other pump install is you need to grind off the one boss that was meant for another pulley that is not needed. Angle grinder bench grinder hell hand file and it will only take a few mins. The other thing is the stamped serial number tends to hit the Super duty pump pulley for some so grind it off at the same time. That is really the only "mods" that have to be done. You need a few different bolts but you can reuse a number of the Ford bolts. A Dodge with 5.9 Cummins lower rad hose. These also use the long stem T-stat so that gives you the option of all kinds of temp ranges. No need to buy the "special 203" if you want it. You can use the standard 205 that IH intended these motors to run with or you can use a 195-197 that Ford switched to for emission reasons but lower combustion efficiency.

The last thing is the heater hose connections.


You need the part numbers to make it kiss simple here ya go:

from International



1831676C92 THE Water Pump

1817958C1 [x3] Bolt 30mm

1817811C1 [x2] Bolt 20mm

1818693C1 [x4] Bolt 110mm

1822653C92 Pulley, Grooved for 8-rib belt

2001804C1 Bolt to hold pulley

1823450C1 Pulley Bearing Dust Cover

1823417C92 Thermostat 197 degree

Stant 205° #14252



from Napa [I ordered these online...]



8825 Upper Radiator Hose

8763 Lower Radiator Hose

705-1319 [x2] Hose Clamps

705-1313 [x2] Hose Clamps

705-1315 [x2] Hose Clamps



3/4 NPT to 1" male barb*
- 1/2 NPT to 5/8 male barb*

Or you can use the following which is ideal:

* NOTE: Straight fittings could be used but 45* are better


- 3/4 NPT to 1" male barb 45* (Jeg's 100491)
- 1/2 NPT to 5/8 male barb 45* (Russell 663080)



A few benefits:

Use of the different T-stat temps without having to purchase custom made like those from Diesel site

Built in filter so that you do not have to purchase a separate kit with each hoses and places to leak and take up more room to mount. Also does not bypass the T-stat like the remotes do if you follow the typical install directions.

The HPOP bolt port is no longer blocked by the Heater hose port. Its now off to the passenger side. Makes changing a HPOP that much faster and easier.

Cast Iron instead of alum.

Pump has a cut off for the bypass filter built in.

The Alliant brand are made is USA. IIRC the casting is import but assemble and other parts are USA @ Geomar.


It is anything but hard if you have the least amount of mechanical ability. The only thing that is not just a part swap is grinding two places and takes no skill if looks do not count. Grinding off a serial number and a boss the size of a quarter. Big deal.

One last thing you should install the fittings before installing the pump if you go with the 45 as they will not clear when you are spinning them on.

The filter cut off uses a standard snap ring and o-ring . The o-ring is standard rubber unit. I would replace it with a viton unit to be sure it does not leak down the road. Its a -205 size. Very simple to do. Pull the snap ring and the unit comes right out. Take off the old oring install the new. Reinstall. Simple. Not required but I would recommend it as it was recommended to me.

Please tell me how this is any more complex than a normal pump install plus installing a remote bypass filter with cutting hose adding ts and clamps. Mounting the filter head etc Sorry I do not see it.

 

You the man Jose

 

Oh man, I guess I was off. Sorry about that.

Saving this. I'ma do it on my new motor.

 

Right on Jose!

 

I know LOL

Glad to help you.