So, I am new here to FTE.

I can tell you already that I have learned from reading the past posts and seeing the power of members’ collective knowledge on a vehicle that we all have a shared interest in. This forum it is very impressive.

Most importantly; I have used what I learned here to put together the parts and pieces of my dream truck supporting the forum as a member and supporting our sponsors with my wallet.

Quick back story. I have had many vehicles in my life - mostly professionally modified Jeep Grand Cherokee Overlands/ Wrangler Rubicons or Subaru WRXs. So I know what a properly tuned vehicle can do. This is my first Ford vehicle. My first diesel engine. My first pick up truck.

Imagine this if you will - that you purchased an almost new – in excellent condition inside and out – bone stock 2003 7.3 PSD FX4 Lariat 4x4 automatic crew cab. Now imagine this: you then immediately send it in to have a fresh flush of full BG synthetic fluid changes at every place liquid resides in the vehicle: transmission, front & rear diffs, brakes, radiator, fuel lube conditioner and motor oil. Then add a DP Tuner F5 install (60E/40HP/80HP) with a full compliment of Autometer quadpod a-pillar gauges (35psi boost/pyro/trans temp), add a Driven Diesel pre & post fuel system upgrade with bowl delete and regulated return with high flow banjo bolt kit, add a Tru-cool max trans cooler kit, add a J. Wood valve body trans upgrade with Hughes deep pan and finally a heavy duty pro comp front steering stabilizer to replace the old one. But wait there’s more! Finally Add an aFe Stage 2 XP air intake and a full MBRP exhaust system.

All installed by professionals who know their diesel stuff in a professional shop that only works on diesel.

So what is the problem you ask? I just got back from a trip to the Grand Canyon from Phoenix pulling a 28’ trailer (A new travel trailer 6,800lbs dry - lets conservatively say 8K lbs was where I was at on this trip) the hills are about a 6 – 8 % grade up and down and to put it simply: I felt that I should have had more authority, power, guts, ***** – whatever you want to call it, pulling this (small?) load. Now mind you it was ok - but I figured a 7.3PSD with some bells and whistles outside of upgrading to new upgraded injectors and turbo / intercooler SHOULD be able to easily march up the hill - no problem. Right?

I was unimpressed. Up the hills I punched the DP Tuner to the #4 mode 80HP tow no codes and with overdrive mostly in the off position for best results (tried it “on” too; but it seemed like it was lugging)

On the small to medium sized long stretch hills; it was ok but on the steeper, short or long pull hills – unimpressive….the (turbo? or blow off valve?) Sounded like it was wheezing, wooshing (complaining) and I really wasn’t going anywhere faster than 40MPH without all that commotion under the hood. The J Wood trans stuff was definitely shifting harder (bam!) when I could not get the “flow” right - not a bad sound or feeling mind you; it was telling me “hey WTF?” What are you doing up there? Are we gonna go? Or are you gonna keep screwing around?!

So - am I crazy to think that I have more potential under this 2003 hood that can really do the job or should I just cut my losses and get a new truck and stop trying to make something out of a has been? Can this truck be more powerful and reliable than a new truck? Bottom line….what the heck am I missing here? I thought diesel trucks had friggin *****! I though I did everything right to get a killer truck. Nope.

Thank you in advance for all that I have already learned and in advance for all that I will learn.

Disappointed 7.3 PSD owner in Phoenix….
But I LOVE this truck! ARGGGGG!

 

Was the sound you were hearing like a rapid pressure cooker style of sound? It could be turbo surge... Although generally you can "push" through it.

You say you have a 4 gauge pod, but only list 3 gauges, I would add fuel pressure as it seems this could be the likeliest cause.

What were your boost levels at, EGT's too. Any SES light?

 

These videos, are good examples of the 2 types of turbo conditions, that are most common.

This video is relatively normal with open element filters it is called turbo stall, it happens when the air being forced(boost) into the engine cannot go anyway, usually shifts or after letting off of the accelerator at heavy throttle. The air has no where to go and the turbo "stalls" causing a rush of air back through the intake.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Ar48OSJdGB8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

This video is the best example of Turbo Surge I know of. Turbo surge is the turbo rapidly stalling repeatedly under certain conditions. Many cure with a wicked wheel, best option is a ported compressor housing.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/evGFfuhUaRM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

Yeah kinda like that kind of sound! I agree; it could be turbo surge. I had plenty of time to try and PUSH thru it and didn't make it through, it was like the motor reached a power "limit" and the EGTs would climb to 12,13,14...(I told you I tried to pass thru it...) I backed off after a little bit of that - threw no codes or SES lamps on the dash...You are very observant! Yes; I only mentioned three gauges the fourth pod is the DP Tuner Gauge switch. boost levels were between 0-20lbs depending on the grade of road and my foot applying pressure to the gas. I could get more gauges - fuel being one of them....So surge and fuel....I will have to check into that....I just want to scream "I need more power captain!""

 

In case you missed it I added another post with videos. To me, fuel pressure is one of the most important gauges, it can tell a lot about conditions.

Yeah I wasn't thinking about the gauge switcher, I did always like them though.

My initial thoughts are boost leaks, or fuel pressure issues.

 

WOW! That was great! I took video of what was happening - I don't know how to upload that yet...I know this is going to sound cray but my situation seemed like a blend of BOTH! It sounded mostly like the first video with a stall but on steroids! Like an old school locomotive from a dead stop pouring it on.chhhchhchhchhhchhhchh <---my best interpretation via text....

I am going back to watch these videos again and then see which demon problem is mine to kill...

 

Yeah sounds are tough, for the upload, I like youtube or photobucket then just copy the "embed" code and paste in a post.

Realistically, surge is rapid stalling over and over again essentially. Some get pretty big "whooshes" at shifts and when you let off, others, like my truck doesn't really do either any more. But I have had 2 other 7.3's and both of them surged and stalled loudly. Some do, some don't.

Also since this is I assume the first time towing with an open style element filter, it is a lot louder than a stock airbox, especially when you are under loaded conditions.

To your original post question (sort of) about buying a new truck??? I am the kind of person that can afford new, have had new, and wanted my 7.3 back. If I continue to own my current rig, I can put $50k into it, and keep it going for quite some time. But that is me.

 

It makes for a really clean install when it is in the a-pillar I think. From what the shop said prior to this trip (when they did all the upgrade work); I currently had no up pipe leaks. I wanted to put the upgraded "bellowed up" pipes on. The shop said to wait until I had a problem; then to sink the money/time in. (Pretty stand up of them if you ask me) I will personally check again now looking for signs of a leak there again though....fuel gauge is looking more and more like a new item....

 

That is quite stand up of them. You can somewhat gauge boost leaks, by noting your boost from your gauge. Based on your mods, you should pretty easily get 25psi atleast IMO.

Another possible scenario, is defuelling,(won't cause the surge btw) in which the PCM cuts back fuel if MAP psi is seen at over 23psi for something like 4 seconds IIRC. Modern DP tunes, I believe there is no need to install a boost fooler, but I am not certain on that either.

 

You have no idea how much your last comment about wanting your 7.3 back has just meant to me.....I just KNEW there was a reason....like yourself; the boys at the shop keep telling me the same thing and my NYC gut instinct is these guys don't screw around...I just have to either learn how to drive it properly (user error) <<----#1 most common problem in the truck or find the solution. I WANT to keep her, I like it more than the new ones!

 

hmmm, I don't think I can get over 21psi even when I "mash" the "pedal to the metal" if you will...hmmmmm

The next plan of attack along your line of defuelling would be to add the following:
Driven Diesel Overboost Annihilator Kit
CFM+ 7.3L Intake Kit 1 (Black 'Y'/ Red Turbo Discharge)
CFM 4 PIECE INTAKE BOOT KIT WITH CLAMPS
Ported Shroud Compressor Housing
High flow turbine housing outlet
KCM S.S. High Pressure Crossover Kit

Unless I have to shell out more $$$ for a Garrett38 Turbo....but really? do I have to go to this extreme?

 

I'm not saying the new ones are bad, they just can be quite spendy.

I wouldn't be quite as concerned with the "whoosh" as I would if you were experiencing the rapid turbo surge(And even though the name imply's it you can't really feel it surging).

 

OK after looking at your very informative videos - I have Turbo Surge...

 

I'm not sure location wise, but you are fortunate to have some pretty handy troubleshooters in your state. Hopefully through some data logging, and possible hands on experience someone can get you an idea of where you stand. A couple of stand up guys that come to mind would be Greg(Shake-N-Bake) and Robin(PaysonPSD). Now I'm not trying to throw them under the bus and say that they are close or would help, but I have a decent idea that they would.

The best conditions to see full boost are under a load, 21 is not bad per say, could just be a wastegate needing adjustment.

As for defueling, none of that will help, it is in the tuning, I would speak with Jody, James, Diane, or Jacob for the specifics.

 

If you are experiencing compressor surge, then the best way to resolve is with a ported compressor housing. However a wicked wheel is a low cost alternative that can sometimes eliminate surge. Compressor housing is the recommended solution though.

Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: Diesel Turbine Housings | Garrett 1.0 A/R | Garrett Exhaust Housing | USA Ported Compressor Housing - Compressor/ Turbine Housings

Riffraff Diesel: Borg Warner Anti-Surge Compressor Wheel


And I can't take credit for the video's being mine, but they are the best examples I have seen to demonstrate the differences. And I have just saved them to have them available. I believe the first was by a member on here though A/Ox4