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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Air conditioning numer two

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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 05:41 PM
  #1  
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Air conditioning numer two

At a local auto store, what brand of air conditioning refridgerant should i buy for my 83 4X4 5.7 liter pickup. Specifics would be appreciated.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 05:47 PM
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It isn't brand but type. If the truck hasn't been converted you need R12 but you can't buy it w/o a license. If it has been converted you need 134A.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by midsouth
At a local auto store, what brand of air conditioning refridgerant should i buy for my 83 4X4 5.7 liter pickup. Specifics would be appreciated.
I don't know for sure but the auto stores used to carry a conversion kit.

I used on on my 85. This was in 1996 and it worked great for years.

I am changing all my AC stuff out now as the truck has been sitting for several years.

If your system still works, you can convert it, if it indeed has the R12.

The kit converts it to R134. Comes with hose,adapters,etc. Less the R134.

Pull a vacuum and see if it holds steady.

I am just letting you know what my case was.

I think the kit (without freon) was around 30$ at the time.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 08:21 PM
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You also need a different sized orifice tube if you do the conversion from r12
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by garthneddy
You also need a different sized orifice tube if you do the conversion from r12
Orifice can be changed, but it's not required for it to cool with r134a.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 05:59 AM
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I may be inccorect, but didn't the R-12 cool alot better than the R134A? Its been years since I have done anything with A/C but I could have sworn the R-12 was better, but was booted do to polution. That and i though you had to change the pump out as well because R134A does not lubricate the same as R12.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 06:27 AM
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In a technical sense it may be true that R12 cools better, but in practical application I've done the conversion and R134 cools just fine. Nothing to be concerned about there. You add oil as part of the conversion. No hardware changes are needed.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 02:26 PM
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I've mostly had good luck with R134 but, on a dark blue Cherokee I had it just wasn't enough. I could have replaced the A/C components to fix the problem but that would have been a little expensive.

I looked around on the net and found some R12 replacement that worked good, better then R134 at least for me. Here's the link to the stuff I used, Autofrost / R406A / GHG-X7 Homepage. This stuff worked great for me.

Just be warned that some of the R12 replacements are HIGHLY flammable and if you smoke and your system springs a leak it could be a little dangerous.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
It isn't brand but type. If the truck hasn't been converted you need R12 but you can't buy it w/o a license.
D4AZ-19B519-A (replaced B9LF-19B519-A) .. Dichlorodifluoromethane (R-12 Freon) / Obsolete

Even thought the EPA banned production in 1994, 100's of sources still sell this stuff, including Amazon. I find it hard to believe that all these sources would require a license to buy.

It's also available from A/C shops / Google R12 for the myriad sources.

There are 99 1b. cans of D4AZ-19B519-A available from Ford dealers, not too far away from your residencia.

B. F. WHITE MOTOR CO. in Stanton TX has 1 = 800-953-3321.

WILSON MOTORS in Snyder TX has 38 = 525-573-1907.

BURTIS MOTOR CO. in Garden City KS has 60 = 620-275-6171.

And, further afield, there are more:

BOB LOWTH FORD in Bemidji MN (home of Babe, the blue ox) has 15 = 218-444-6145.

The last time I posted this info, there were over 400 cans available from 9 Ford Dealers, so I would assume that FTE members bought some of it.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
Even thought the EPA banned production in 1994, 100's of sources still sell this stuff, including Amazon. I find it hard to believe that all these sources would require a license to buy.
I naturally had to go check.

Amazon seems to be selling r12 "replacement" stuff, but not R12 itself.

The EPA rules on this are quite clear:

The Refrigerant Sales Restriction | Ozone Layer Protection - Regulatory Programs | US EPA
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by kedwinh
I've mostly had good luck with R134 but, on a dark blue Cherokee I had it just wasn't enough. I could have replaced the A/C components to fix the problem but that would have been a little expensive.

I looked around on the net and found some R12 replacement that worked good, better then R134 at least for me. Here's the link to the stuff I used, Autofrost / R406A / GHG-X7 Homepage. This stuff worked great for me.

Just be warned that some of the R12 replacements are HIGHLY flammable and if you smoke and your system springs a leak it could be a little dangerous.
I have heard propane has nearly identical properties as r12, and some of these "replacements" might use it.

All the vehicles I have converted worked ok. A pickup cab is especially small, and easy to cool. Your Cherokee has a much larger interior space, and if the system was engineered on the edge, yes it might not cool satisfactorily. That's when you need to bring out the bag of tricks listed in some of these threads, like different orifices, larger condensors, etc. These tweaks make the system more efficient with r134a, but most of the time are not required for the system to cool "good enough" with most vehicles, especially these old trucks with just a ordinary truck cab to cool.

When bringing one of these old A/C systems back to life, you really do not know what you have most of the time. So if you can get the compressor to run by jumping out the low pressure switch, and there are no obvious large leaks anywhere, the first thing I would do is pull a vacuum on it, and if it holds for 1/2 hour or so, go ahead and convert it over to r134a and then see what happens. You may find you have a fairly good leak which will need repair, or you may find you have a very small leak which will require you to add a can each year, which isn't that bad compared to trying to find the small leak, (which can mean a new or rebuilt compressor because it's seal is leaking).
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 06:36 PM
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A can a year isn't bad at all for these vehicles. In fact, my wife's 2001 Subie needs a can each summer.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
I have heard propane has nearly identical properties as r12, and some of these "replacements" might use it.

All the vehicles I have converted worked ok. A pickup cab is especially small, and easy to cool. Your Cherokee has a much larger interior space, and if the system was engineered on the edge, yes it might not cool satisfactorily. That's when you need to bring out the bag of tricks listed in some of these threads, like different orifices, larger condensors, etc. These tweaks make the system more efficient with r134a, but most of the time are not required for the system to cool "good enough" with most vehicles, especially these old trucks with just a ordinary truck cab to cool.
The Cherokee was an older and very dark blue. Plus it was in Arizona in the summer. Otherwise I think it would have been fine. But the cheapest route at the time was to use a R12 replacement and that worked great.

Everything else, including my red 85 F150, that I have converted has cooled just fine with the R134. Like Gary said, I do have to add a can about every year and a half or so but I have to do the same with my dad's 2000 Mountaineer.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
A can a year isn't bad at all for these vehicles. In fact, my wife's 2001 Subie needs a can each summer.
Where do you add a can of R134? At the light blue plastic nozzle near the black canister thingy on the passenger side, or at the red nozzle above the compressor? Or at both, or neither of these spots?

Any special tools required? I saw some of the R134 cans at the auto parts store had a built-in pressure gauge...

 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 09:01 PM
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The hose will only fit the right one, think it's the red but could be wrong. Seems like I have to re-learn every time I do it. I'd just pick up one of those new style can's like Pro Air I think it's called. They have the can with the hose and gauge built on them. Just hook them up and pull the trigger till the gauge gets to the pressure that's right for the outside temp where you are. It's really that easy. Just read the directions that come with the can.
 
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