It connects to the SUCTION SIDE hose (the big one running across your firewall). The hose for 134A will fit your connection.

Mine has the connection on the DRYER (or black cannister on passenger side) Also called Accumulator.
The instructions that come it are pretty good.

 

You should add at the blue, not the red. The blue is the low pressure port and the red the high pressure, right off the compressor. The hose shouldn't fit on the high pressure connection - only a set of gauges that have both the high and low fittings and gauges will hook up there.

 

Got it, thanks guys.

 

My truck is missing both the red and the blue caps. What are these caps called exactly, and where can I find them? Does Ford sell these?

 

They are Air conditioner service caps.
You can get them at Auto Zone, O'reillys, Napa or whatever parts store is in your area.
They are NOT expensive.. About 1 or 2 bucks.

 

You definitely need the caps, they have o-rings in them to help seal off the schrader valve in the service port. These valves inside the ports where you hook your can of freon do like to leak sometimes.

Like the others said you need to fill on the suction side of the compressor.

Every compressor has two lines going to it. One of them will leave the compressor and go to the front of the vehicle where it will enter the coil in front of the radiator. This is the high pressure side, stay away from these lines and this side of the system.

Once you verify the high side, you can look at the other line leaving the compressor, this is the suction side. You can follow it all around till it eventually enters the firewall, and any fittings you run into on this side will be safe to fill with.

 

Thanks, Franklin. What is the technical term for these caps, and where might I find some new ones? My truck is a 1985 model and the A/C components and hoses look exactly like Galendor's truck.

 

There is a bunch on ebay. I don't know if the local parts stores carry them or not. Look for "r134a refrigerant caps".

 

Thank you Dave et al. Another question: my system blows cool, just not as cold as last summer. When "adding a can" of R134 should I use the kind that has "oil" in it, or just the straight R134 (no oil)? I have read conflicting advice on this matter.

 

If you don't see blotches of oil where there's been a leak and you've lost oil then there's no need to add oil.

As for making a difference, I added two cans to a friend's Suburban today and it went from doing nothing at temps above 90 to being COLD at over 100. And, we probably found the leak that is causing him to have to add each summer. The low-side schrader valve is leaking - even after jacking in and back out with the fitting. The only permanent fix is to evacuate the system and replace the valve, but with a good cap and the o-ring I think he can go years with just adding a can or two a summer.

 

Great, thanks Gary!

 

There is a tool for replacing the schrader valve under pressure... Part# FJC2750 is a common one.

 

I sit corrected - it isn't necessary to evac the system. Thanks, Matt.

But, at $100 and up depending on where you buy it, and since this is the first time I've ever needed it, I think I'll let my buddy fund a can or two each summer. However, it is good to know that the capability exists. And, if the leak seems to get worse after us jacking in today he may have to have it replaced - or buy the tool for me.

 

There are a lot of places selling R-12 replacement or substitute products. Some with Propane which can cause explosions, Hot Shot is a synthetic 414B so you have to convert the amount need of R-12 to a Synthetic. Other wise you over charge & end up with a compressor problem.
Since I hold a Type I & II High Pressure EPA License & was certified with ASE. Even on any Ebay Store I was required to provide a copy of my license to buy REAL R-12. In Arizona some parts house sell 14 oz Real R-12 freon but a copy of my license has to be on file to buy it or I need to present my license at time of purchase. Sell R-12 to an unlicensed person is a federal crime.
Then comes the cost 14oz cans retail about $50 each. 30# cylinder of R-12 is between $700-$900 each. So R134A is much cheaper but also much more dangerous to handle.
I have tried before to educate people on the hazards of synthetic freons but most don't care, so I won't get into it. I will say I worked in Refrigeration for a contractor with the DOD when the synthetic freons were coming out & we were required to wear full chemical suits anytime we handled or worked with synthetic freons. But that was because the Government was so concerned about our personal well being, just as they are today.
Craig

 

E1VY-19D702-A .. A/C Charging Valve Cap (Motorcraft YF-970).

Applications: 1981 F100/350, Econoline & Bronco from 10/80 / 1982/93 F100/350 & Bronco / 1982/97 Econoline.

MSRP: $12.88 / FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsor tousleyfordparts.com price: $7.08 / Tousley Ford: White Bear Lake MN

Note: There is no superceding part number and while the prices come up on Tousley's website, there is no FoMoCo PDC (Parts Depot Center) status for it, so it's probably obsolete.

FoMoCo Dealer Parts Locator System: 24 PDC's show ZERO quantity / 100's are available NOS