Engine's getting worse
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: ontario canada
Engine's getting worse
hi
my truck struggles to rev up, doesn't want to go past 2500, has blu-ish white smoke while struggling to rev, oil psi reads 600 psi at idle and 2200 psi at 2000 rpms.
i have no access to a scanner.
what could this be?
ipr gone bad?
my truck struggles to rev up, doesn't want to go past 2500, has blu-ish white smoke while struggling to rev, oil psi reads 600 psi at idle and 2200 psi at 2000 rpms.
i have no access to a scanner.
what could this be?
ipr gone bad?
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: ontario canada
loooking at glovemeister's post seems close to what's happening to me.
i did have the fuel regulator off to clean the mud out of it, two of three round magnet looking things(elements?) were sitting in the bottom of the bowl and one was broken into pieces, but the fuel comes out clean now.
could it be that those pieces worked there way into the fuel pump?
i did have the fuel regulator off to clean the mud out of it, two of three round magnet looking things(elements?) were sitting in the bottom of the bowl and one was broken into pieces, but the fuel comes out clean now.
could it be that those pieces worked there way into the fuel pump?
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: ontario canada
i got a set from diesel orings.
gonna take off the valve covers and look into the wiring soon. btw, what kind of signs should i look for if maybe my coolants leaking in?
i just need a solid direction to look at, should i start with the fuel system or check the injectors?
gonna take off the valve covers and look into the wiring soon. btw, what kind of signs should i look for if maybe my coolants leaking in?
i just need a solid direction to look at, should i start with the fuel system or check the injectors?
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: ontario canada
none really just fearing the worst about the bluish white smoke.
looked at the passenger side wiring and there really oily. gonna wait till after work to open the other valve cover.
looked at the passenger side wiring and there really oily. gonna wait till after work to open the other valve cover.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: ontario canada
all the above, lol.
it idles ok, bit of a stumble then it evens out, i tried making it go past 2500 and it almost did but refused and mostly it struggles and refuses to go past 2500. checked the wiring on the driver side and same as other side, oily but ok physically. pulled out the screen for the regulator and it wasn't that dirty but this dirt is still showing up in the fuel bowl. oh and my y-intake boost boots came in from riff raff, my old ones look so chewed up compared to those.
it idles ok, bit of a stumble then it evens out, i tried making it go past 2500 and it almost did but refused and mostly it struggles and refuses to go past 2500. checked the wiring on the driver side and same as other side, oily but ok physically. pulled out the screen for the regulator and it wasn't that dirty but this dirt is still showing up in the fuel bowl. oh and my y-intake boost boots came in from riff raff, my old ones look so chewed up compared to those.
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loooking at glovemeister's post seems close to what's happening to me.
i did have the fuel regulator off to clean the mud out of it, two of three round magnet looking things(elements?) were sitting in the bottom of the bowl and one was broken into pieces, but the fuel comes out clean now.
could it be that those pieces worked there way into the fuel pump?
i did have the fuel regulator off to clean the mud out of it, two of three round magnet looking things(elements?) were sitting in the bottom of the bowl and one was broken into pieces, but the fuel comes out clean now.
could it be that those pieces worked there way into the fuel pump?
With the non-conductive insulators not holding the resistance wire in place on the mounting plate in bottom of the bowl, it will at some point touch mounting plate or bowl and short to ground blowing fuse then your truck will not start without first upluging the heater and replacing the fuse. Better replace the fuel bowl heater before it shorts to ground or if not needed just unplug it at fuel bowl connection on the drivers side of fuel bowl, then tape and tie up the connector end of the power supply wire.
Although this probably has nothing to do with your OP it will become a problem when it shorts to ground. I replaced mine with a new style from Oreillys w/limited lifetime warr for around $65.00.
Good luck, hope you get your other problem sorted out.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: ontario canada
thanks for the info gscpsd!
i was looking at photos of the fuel bowl and noticed that i don't think i have the wire for the element. ? . one more thing to replace for the "basketcase" that is mine, lol.
i was looking at photos of the fuel bowl and noticed that i don't think i have the wire for the element. ? . one more thing to replace for the "basketcase" that is mine, lol.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: ontario canada
so......
i got a mech. core only ipr from dieselsite, changed it yesterday, finished up tightening everything this morning, charged the batteries, cranked it, nothing just cranking, stopped and filled the reservoir, cranked for about 30 secs and still no firing or even smoke coming out the tailpipe. tried again cranking and no fire and no smoke, fuel bowl is filling up. oh and the oil level is at the full mark.
anyone wanting to buy a basket case powerstroke?
i got a mech. core only ipr from dieselsite, changed it yesterday, finished up tightening everything this morning, charged the batteries, cranked it, nothing just cranking, stopped and filled the reservoir, cranked for about 30 secs and still no firing or even smoke coming out the tailpipe. tried again cranking and no fire and no smoke, fuel bowl is filling up. oh and the oil level is at the full mark.
anyone wanting to buy a basket case powerstroke?
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
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From: Plankinton, SD
Know anyone with another 7.3 powerstroke you could try their idm from? Or put yours in theirs? If injectors aren't firing, I'd try one if I had access to one means you replaced the ipr already.
I don't suppose you cranked it over and watched oil spill out of the spouts of the injectors when the vc's were off did you?
I don't suppose you cranked it over and watched oil spill out of the spouts of the injectors when the vc's were off did you?