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6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

EOT & ECT Spread

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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 07:37 PM
  #16  
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Turbos have to come off to get the oil cooler out of the valley. To get the turbos off, you have to pull the cab to get the pipes off the back of them...or so I'm told.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 08:15 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by CKetchum
Last Saturday my ECT and EOT started to get further apart, normally they were always within a degree or two of each other (198-200). My ECT and EOT dash gauges looked normal with their needles in the exact same place they always are, but my Scangauge II was showing temp splits of 25F-30F. The wrench light on the drivers information display illuminated and the truck went into reduced power mode. I got my truck to the dealer on Monday and after they looked at it they said the computer had stored temp splits as high as 40F. They said there are tiny fins inside the cooler that get coated/clogged with coolant, maybe as the coolant breaks down. Not really sure.

My F-250 is a Job 1 2008 with 102,850 miles on the odo. Pretty big bill to replace the oil cooler though...

Oil Cooler, Dual Thermostat Kit, New Oil & Filter, New Coolant = $535
30 Hours Labor @ $76 an hour (by the book to lift cab) = $2280
Tax & Shop Supplies = $316
TOTAL = $3131
you check your nitrates ever? have you ever flushed your coolant?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 08:20 PM
  #18  
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I checked nitrates last at 80,000...right after I bought the truck. All good then. Coolant wasn't flushed according to the previous owners detailed records. I was planning on having the engine coolant, fuel cooler coolant, and an oil change at 100K miles but got a little behind...
 
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 08:25 PM
  #19  
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Coolant maintance is a must on this motor. Extended oil changes or fuel filters is a no no as well.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 08:35 PM
  #20  
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My target on oil changes is 5000 miles and fuel filters 10,000 miles. Sometimes I run over 500-1000 miles but I always felt I was way ahead of the schedule in the book. Really wouldn't have thought 2000 miles over the recommended 100,000 miles would effect the coolant...but I've been wrong before.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 08:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by CKetchum
Turbos have to come off to get the oil cooler out of the valley. To get the turbos off, you have to pull the cab to get the pipes off the back of them...or so I'm told.
There's supposedly a Cab-On & Cab-Off procedure for everything. Often times the cab off is easier, but it's the hours to get the cab off that get ya.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 01:40 PM
  #22  
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Funny thing is, if need be, the cab can be off in under an hour.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 02:10 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by UGA33
Funny thing is, if need be, the cab can be off in under an hour.
That's the problem with automotive work. It's called "billed hours" I believe. Not how long it actually takes, it's how long Ford says it will take.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 03:31 PM
  #24  
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Running empty at 80 today I had EOT at 211 and ECT at 201 with 99 ambient temps. WTH
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 03:38 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by RM2738
Running empty at 80 today I had EOT at 211 and ECT at 201 with 99 ambient temps. WTH
I know, isn't that awesome?

Mine was always within a few degrees, then started creeping apart, it looks like the truck will have to get dissassembled, and I only have 100,000 km's on it (60,000 miles)

My coolant's been flushed a few times now, ford says bad oil cooler, and to try synthetic.

The fact that the dealership can get a cab off in an hour doesn't do much good for us, just them ...
 
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 10:33 PM
  #26  
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My oil cooler was deemed bad in the end. It didn't help things that I had two different coolants in my system...Ford Gold and Universal Green. They don't play well together. $3100 later I got my truck back and my temps are textbook again. I can't remember exactly but they charged between 20-30 hours work...by the book. It took them about two days to get my truck back to me. Seems more like it should have been 16 hours max...
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 08:48 PM
  #27  
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Not looking for an answer pursay, but today I pulled a 10,000lb tandem axle trailer and my spread didnt go more than 6 degrees at 70 mph with a 98 degree ambient temp. This really has me puzzled as the differences are so inconsistent. Oh well, I guess all I can do is keep an eye on them.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 05:30 PM
  #28  
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Photos added

I meant to post these pictures sooner but just now got around to it. I don't know why the cooler can't be cleaned while it's installed. Nice chunk of aluminum but doesn't seem very complicated. Not that expensive either in the end, guess might as well put a new one in since you would have to remove the old one to clean it.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 06:39 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CKetchum
I meant to post these pictures sooner but just now got around to it. I don't know why the cooler can't be cleaned while it's installed. Nice chunk of aluminum but doesn't seem very complicated. Not that expensive either in the end, guess might as well put a new one in since you would have to remove the old one to clean it.
What is it that caused the failure? The pics don't look bad at all... I can only see minimal build up. Has it already been cleaned?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 08:02 PM
  #30  
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I'm not sure if they cleaned it at the dealer or not. I picked it up out of the parts washer though. I think they just had it in there draining. The dealer told me the cooler was coated with a small film that insulated it and did not allow the two fluids to transfer heat. So my oil temp was about 20-30 degrees F hotter than normal. I wasn't sure why they couldn't add a chemical to the coolant to remove the film, like a normal pre-flush coolant additive. I was told that my system had Ford Gold and Universal Green Coolants in it and that they would cause a gelling effect to happen.\


No rupture or anything like that...
 
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