When moving, I receive mildly cool air, when sitting still (traffic or lights) the A/C becomes warm. The air doesn't change outlets, velocity is the same. Other than checking pressure, what other possibilities cam you guys / gals suggest?

I am going to have it serviced.

 

Without pressures, you might as well consult a crystal ball or tarot cards.

 

For a very reasonable price you can purchase a do it your self recharge kit. Get the kit that includes the low pressure gauge with the recharge hose. This won't tell you your high pressure side, but if you are reading less than 40psi on the low side you are probably low on freon. Just follow the instructions. You don't state what year this vehicle is, so don't mix R134a if this is an older R12 system. This is about all you can do yourself if you don't have a set of manifold gauges and an understanding of air conditioning systems.

 

So what happens when he adds the refrigerant, still has the issue and the problem turns out to be restricted airflow over the condenser (as I suspect)? That terribly inaccurate gauge won't tell you anything without the High side reading.
A simple, free fix like cleaning the condenser just went up in price to recover the refrigerant and reset the charge to the proper level.

Why not invest ~$40 at Harbor Freight and get the right tool for the job.

 

Thanks for the guidance. My truck is a 2001 CCLB. 134a is the fluid. I will buy a gauge set to check.

 

Sorry, didn't mean to step on anyone's toes. I did say that a full set of gauges was necessary to get an accurate diagnosis. Just trying to pass along a technique that worked for me many years ago before I had a set of gauges, vacuum pump, and other AC tools. I agree 100%, check the condenser for obstructions before adding any freon. No cost involved. Again, sorry to lsrx101 for any ruffled feathers. Just trying to help.

 

No ruffled feathers, sir. Just a short as possible comment and answer after a hot and long day. Rereading it, it did sound gruff. My apologies.
About 70% of the time what you mentioned will work, and often work well. It's the other 30% that I was alluding to, and I believe the OP's issue falls into that 30% by his symptoms.
I see issues very often on customer vehicles after "the can" didn't work and caused a major failure. A simple repair was compounded by "mechanic in a can" attempts to fix it.
Those cans with the cheap gauge and charging hose bring me a LOT of business, often from folks that can ill afford a proper diag and repair and tried that in an effort to save money. I really like to make money, but I hate making it like that.