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I recently had my 1990 F250 alignment done at the shop and when complete my tires had visible positive camber. When I asked the guy how the camber adjustment went he said it was "way out" but now it's in spec. Then I asked for a printout and got "our machine doesn't print out". This leads me to stick my head in the wheel well and check the camber bolts. They seem like they haven't been touched and they still have the rusty cotter pin in them. I asked the guy to come show me how it's possible to adjust the camber without touching the camber bolts (getting pretty pissed at this point) and he said he just cracked them loose and re-used the old cotter pin. This is all smelling pretty fishy so he agrees to put the truck back on the lift to show me that it's all good. Positive camber was "in spec" at +1.9 degrees and according to his machine +2.0 was the spec. Seems like a kind of half assed job and I'd like to hear from some more experienced guys on this. I'd like to verify with another shop, but then I'd probably just be out another 80 bucks.
I didn't think the camber was adjustable on these without installing an adjustable camber bushing. I could be wrong so anyone with more information please chime in.
I know on my 92 I just did the ball joints and to move the camber nut you have to remove the upper ball joint nut, then get the camber nut to lift up about 1/4 inch so you can rotate it, the get it to seat, put the ball joint castle nut back on, tighten it and reinstall the cotter pin. then you can recheck the alignment because you are not doing any of that with the wheel still on.
+1.9 degrees are u serious ???? he said thats ok geez u will eat the outsides off the tire in no time and to move the eccentric the nut has to come way up to be able to pull the eccentric past the locks sounds mighty shady to me
It seems like there are numbers in here more than 0.5 degrees depending on ride height. I do plan on taking the truck back for some sort of re-cal, but I'm not sure what they will do for me.
*edit* I see this now "Dimension A = distance from I beam to frame" I'll have to see what mine is... it's stock, so I assume 5"
I took the truck in to another shop and they said the camber bushings were not adjustable. I couldn't argue with them because I didn't know for sure. Can anyone chime in and confirm differently? The bushing has two notches 180 from each other and the guy told me those are just to lock it in place. Everything is stock on this truck, but it does have different axles from a diesel F250. Would they come with different camber bushings based on the engine weight?
What I determined from that extra alignment is that the toe was out about a half a degree on the drivers side. I have a printout that I'll be taking over to the other shop to get my money back.
Most camber bushings are fixed at a certain angle, for example, +1* or -1*, depending on how you put them in.
The preferred way to adjust camber is to install a 0* bushing, take alignment readings, and install a camber bushing with an angle that will put the truck in spec.
That said, I've yet to run into an alignment shop that has 0* bushings. Most shops around me simply set toe and call it good, even if camber is out.
I installed new front springs/buckets/ball joints/tie rods on my 95, and also installed some Moog adjustable camber/caster bushings, part number K80108. They're listed as fitting an F250 4wd also. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...RL._SS500_.jpg
They have a true 0* setting, so the aligment tech can get proper readings, and use the enclosed chart to get your camber/caster dialed in.
I got mine close with an angle finder, then took it to my alignment shop. It cost me a little more than a standard alignment ($100).
If you didn't put lift springs or otherwise lift the front of the truck, these bushings ought to do the trick for you. I got mine on Rock Auto for about $20 each.
i use adjustable camber bushings from napa.
the factory camber bushings are usually non adjustable. you drop them in and that is that. the napa bushings can be spun to adjust, and are locked in place by pressure.
Most camber bushings are fixed at a certain angle, for example, +1* or -1*, depending on how you put them in.
The preferred way to adjust camber is to install a 0* bushing, take alignment readings, and install a camber bushing with an angle that will put the truck in spec.
That said, I've yet to run into an alignment shop that has 0* bushings. Most shops around me simply set toe and call it good, even if camber is out.
I installed new front springs/buckets/ball joints/tie rods on my 95, and also installed some Moog adjustable camber/caster bushings, part number K80108. They're listed as fitting an F250 4wd also. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...RL._SS500_.jpg
They have a true 0* setting, so the aligment tech can get proper readings, and use the enclosed chart to get your camber/caster dialed in.
I got mine close with an angle finder, then took it to my alignment shop. It cost me a little more than a standard alignment ($100).
If you didn't put lift springs or otherwise lift the front of the truck, these bushings ought to do the trick for you. I got mine on Rock Auto for about $20 each.
I just ordered these from Amazon for 50 shipped. Thanks! I still wonder why they couldn't spin those bushings 180 degrees to add 2 degrees negative camber. My castor was 4.5 degrees, but I guess that will be adjusted with the new bushings too.
Maybe they were already in the position to give the maximum neg camber for that bushing? What I've found is that with the Moog bushings, caster is only adjustable slightly. Not a huge deal, but every bit helps!
i use adjustable camber bushings from napa.
the factory camber bushings are usually non adjustable. you drop them in and that is that. the napa bushings can be spun to adjust, and are locked in place by pressure.
What size and part number did you get from NAPA if you remember?
I bought mine from NAPA about 10 years ago. The only problem was I think I have one that is different size then the other because they did not have 2 of the same size.
Other then that I have the same issue every time I take it my truck in for a front end alignment. They seem to always have some excuse like, "your tie rods are worn out, or your ball joints are worn out. I'm like I just had those replaced a year ago.
Or they do half *** job and get one side done with the other side still screwed up like they never even touched it. Last alignment I had done when I left the alignment shop I had to hold the steering wheel a little to the left not to drift into oncoming traffic. I was screaming at the windshield all the way home.
the last set i got were for a 2 wheel F-150.
if i remember correctly one was a 1 degree and the other was a 2 degree bushing.
i don't have the numbers though, it was 6 or 7 months ago.
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