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Don't know if this will provide any comfort/info or expose me as the "ama chur" I really am but I've replumbed my '53. Some of my flares were a bit off center. The flares that were severely off center I threw away and the slightly off centered ones I decided to use. To my surprise no leaks. Replumped about 1 1/2 years ago. Good luck.
I do not understand how you can get a offset flare,either a single or a double. My father was a plumber for over 57 years (rest his soul)he trained me years ago.so give this a try. 1.cut off tubing with a quaility tubing cutter.2.clamp bothsides of the holder to tubing making sure that both sides of the holder are even with each other,leaving enough sticking out to be the same height as the (first)sholder of the insert tool.lay the insert tool next to the tubing and eye ball to see if they are the same height.3.Install flare tool and tighten until solid.4.remove the insert tool and re flare until solid. This should give you a perfect (double flare) of the proper width. 5. DON,T FORGET to INSTALL FITTING FIRST. good luck Jim VA.
There are things sold as flaring tools that simply don't work. I bought a Lisle kit (which wasn't cheap), and couldn't get an acceptable double flare on 3/16" line. The counter guy at the store couldn't make it work either.
A hydraulic shop loaned me the tool they used: a Ridgid 345. It worked, so I got my own set.
Jim didn't emphasis #1 enough... cut with a good tubing cutter... make sure you have a nice clean cut that is flat.. even if you have to dress it with a file... also deburr the inner and outer edges slightly...
but... a good flaring tool is essential...if the tube slips in the holder or the flaring point is not perfectly round...you'll get a bad flare... I've got some close up pics on my page that might help...
I am not sure if I can be of any help. I have been re pluming my 2 older trucks with stainless steel brake lines. I bought a $100 snap on double flairing tool to do the job. This is how I flair ( this will work with steel also) I cut the tubing with a sharp cutter slow. Then I find a drill bit the same size as inside of the tubing and drill the inside of the tubing were I cut it and plan to flair it. I then install the tubing into the bar clamp sticking up as high as the die or to the step in the die and clamp it even and very tight. Then I place the die in the top of the tube and start the inner flair make sure that your t handle is in the middle and twist in the middle not off to eather side. Then just do your seconid flair. I am getting perfect flairs this way. I am doing some more tomorrow night I can take some step by step pictures if you like. email me if you like me to send them to you.
I used to make brakeslines for school buses and tractor trailers. I found that sometimes if you use too much pressure when cranking down on the flaring tool, you could ruin a flare. the key is to use just enough pressure on good flares. More's law is not good to use when flaring. (More's law is: if enough is good, More must be better.) Take your time and don't use too much cranking force. I worked for a cheap guy and we didn't have that good of a flaring tool. It's more of a feel to get a good flare. Sometimes by cranking too hard, you can also crack the tube. Hope this helps.
I had the same problem...I used a cheapo kit though. I ended up having a machine shop do it. I will say a shot of WD-40 on the tube before you crank down will make a big difference
These are all great tips that I wish I had known when I did my truck a few years ago. Just to empahasize a few points:
I used a Lisle kit ($40 pep boys) and while this is not really a well made tool, it did do the job just fine.
Debur the tubing after you cut and ream out the inside as well.
If you are starting with a cut that is not straight and smooth, the end result will be no better.
Put a drop of oil or grease on the die before you clamp it in there, this will make getting it out alot easier after you flare it.
Go slow... Put the clamp in a vice and just take your time, don't try to crank it out quick.
Don't try to get away with the shortest piece of tubing possible.
It's almost always necessary to have a few bends or even some loops to help the line flex in the middle. Without these you will be putting too mush stress near your flare fitting.
Good luck!
You got a Lisle kit that worked? The kits I tried must have all been from a defective batch. The press part didn't sit perpendicular to the tubing clamp - it was machined wrong.
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