2001 PSD Ex.
Front V codes (new)
Bilstiens
Hellwig rear sway
16" stock rims and 32" tires. (I have some 18s I plan to use soon, and maybe 33")

Finally did the rear B codes modification (approx 90K miles on them), following all the picture threads online, and with advice from Cary T. But, I wanted to add as little lift as possible. I also looked at the stock spring slapper on the Excursion and decided to use it. I guess we can call these B Code Version 2. (probably going to get some flack from some folks)

Before I started the rear springs, bear in mind:

I don't tow anything and probably won't, in the future, so I did not have a towing issue. But I plan to do some traveling and camping, so I was looking forward to a rear spring upgrade for added gear in back.

Before I modified or replaced ANYthing else, I found that after the rear Hellwig sway bar was added, the straight-line stability, the steering wander, anything really undesirable about the handling was mostly gone. I recommend doing the rear sway first, for someone on a budget. It worked great with no other mods. Even with completely dead, collapsed D code springs.

After doing the front V-codes and Bilstiens all around, with the stock rear G codes, I actually was fine with the ride, and the ride height. Since I did not end up with an Excursion that was higher in front, than in the rear, I think my stock rear G-codes were fairly new. I do know the previous owners used the vehicle to tow.

Before rear B codes, with 32" tires, I had 39" up front, and between 40-40 3/4" in back (each side is not perfectly even).

After my mod to the B codes, in which I did everything I could to "not" add much lift, I ended up with 39" in front, and about 41- 41 3/4" in back. I added about an inch in back, not the two inches most people get. But again, I think my stock rear springs were not old before I replaced them. If you have dead, sagging rear springs, you will probably add more, since your Ex is sagging in back.

The ride is a bit stiffer in back, but not by much. I can't say that steering wander is "that much" better, since I think my G codes were again, pretty fresh. I really think the rear sway bar is the single best mod I did, but the shocks were a mess, the front springs were a mess, I wanted to do the whole job.

Here's how I did the B codes.

 

PM's not available until you hit your 25th post.

Stewart

 

or by the time I reply to a few other posts, I'll be PM able.

 

Sorry guys, I had to delete a few posts. I'm so distracted recently I didn't even realize why you two guys were discussing PM's.

Unfortunately, you can't sell or even discuss selling anything in the tech threads. Post your opinions and thoughts in a few different threads and you'll have your 25 posts, then you guys can swap PM's with each other.

Stewart

 

Have any before and after pics of the X of how it looks with your modded springs?

 

I'm in the midst of figuring out which way I'm going myself. Read a dozen or more threads now from this forum and the diesel specific including the awesome all encompassing comprehensive steering wander thread. Thanks to all you hard chargers who post and compile all the awesome information/advice.

I've cut and paste out of all of them most of the basics.

In response to what was done above....seems those spacers (while giving you some added lift) also allow each spring to flex a little (probably a much better ride - not so stiff)....but that's an assumption on my part.

To all the great minds out there....my own quandary now....2000 V10 w/84K miles I just purchased this past month.

I'm torn between the V, W, and X code for front. I'm 1/2" on drivers side and 3/4" on passenger off the bump stops. Endlink on passenger side is bent and hitting springs (bottom of sway bar looks like it took a pretty good hit & steering damper was flat on bottom). Don't wanna jack it up too much but I would like a little suspension travel.

I have the RAS but haven't installed it yet. Figured I'd go with the modified B's since it seems like a no-brainer (extra beef with next to little or no added cost). Gonna throw the RAS on top since I already have it (purchased prior to seeing the bump stop clearance up front).

Question is what kind of lift should I expect out of mod-B's and RAS? And which front springs would come closest to matching it so the truck stays fairly balanced (little rake is fine but no sagging back end and no but in the air)???

I'm putting Helwig's up front and rear. Installed new Bilsteins up front and have'm for the rear. Also Bilstein steering damper.

I've seen mention of adjustable tracking bar? CaryT I think recommended (if memory serves me correctly). Is it a nice to have or a have to have?

Also seen issue with location points on the Helwig sway bar with the mod-B. Will I likely need to modify that? Since the RAS is just grabbing the back end of the spring....will that exacerbate the problem?

Thoughts and opinions???

 

HBoyNut

For the setup you are considering, the RAS with the moded B's, you will probably look best with the x-codes in the front.
I have the v with the moded B's in the back and it already has the backend higher than the front. You might see that the RAS makes the back end even higher.
I think Cary recommends the adjustable tracbar when a person does the v code fronts with the 2" or 3" drop bracket. With that setup you may want the adjustable tracbar since you will have an approx lift of 4".

Here is what mine looks like with the rear rake riding on v in the front and moded b's in the rear.


Tim M

 

Thank you Tim! Nice X!

From Bruce's chart that has circulated forever now....X codes are 2.9" lift for my V10. Seems right on the border of the adj. tracbar (another $$$ expense) so I've been debating that one with myself pretty hard. The other part is messing up the mounting points for the Hellwig sway bar links and having to custom fit those.

rkik went with X codes up front and just 350 blocks in the rear and his truck came out looking pretty good in terms of balance (although I have no idea what else he added or if he had issues later).

Forest went with V codes front, B codes rear with stock Ex blocks (2") & RAS....but said he had a bit more rake than he wanted (also evident in his pics)....but it drove very nicely. If I went with modded B's and RAS then I'll be up even higher. Also concerns about the Hellwig sway bar linkage connections in the rear. I can go for the lower load capacity on the RAS (25% vs 40% setting) but I have no idea what difference in height that will make.

I sure appreciate being able to bounce ideas off of you guys who have already gone down this path. I'm new to the X (owned it a month now) and have spent a couple weeks playing catch up reading up on all the threads. Plus this one is pretty hard to go backwards once a guy gets into it ($$$, days worth of labor and it doesn't come out right).

I'm still trying to find the elusive black/pink wire for the back-up camera I installed.....

 

HBoyNut

What size tires are you planning on running. Knowing this will also help you determine which spring to use in the front.
With my V-codes in front I believe my tires are at the limit for this lift. If you are planning on running 35" tires or something close you will want to be higher in the front then what the regular V-code setup will give you.

Tim M

 

I put a set of Michelin's (E code - 16" stockers) on there from CostCo 4 weeks ago right after I bought it (tires were shot)....and they'll have to stay on there for some time or my wife will shoot me. And at the rate she drives (7-8k a year)....

 

Excursion - mwsmith's Photos

...don't really have after, except

ExcursionSuspension - mwsmith's Photos

but I do state what the top of the fender well measurements were before and after.

 

my rake is probably about like yours. I stated I have about 2 to 2.5" more height in back than front.

I was not sure what the trac bar is used for, so I looked it up. It's job is to keep the axle centered. I can imagine with more than stock lift in front, the trac bar could become off-center, and need to be adjustable.

while perusing the Ford factory shop manual, I realized something. Excessive rake (higher rear than the front) would also reduce caster. Caster as most of us know, helps with the straight-line feel. The more caster, the more the truck will tend to want to stay going straight. Too much caster, and you can barely even steer the truck on the highway. Too little, and it feels like you're driving on ice, constantly correcting.

A low-slung long forked chopper has a ton of caster. a Ricer bike with it's almost straight fork has almost none, comparitively.

as far as I can tell, caster is not adjustable on our trucks. I might be wrong. But if I am correct, then ride height, from front to rear, is important to keep track of. It's the one way it "can" be adjusted.

Too much extra height in back compared to front, will reduce caster and make the truck feel more wandering in a straight line. Even the manual talks about caster and frame angle. This might be why the folks who use 2" hangers in front, report their straight line feel is suddenly so much better. I believe it.



But, then--if you have the front and rear the same hieght, having any serious load in back results in it sagging. I voted for having some headroom for large loads in back, for now. But I am seriously contemplating having my machinist friend shave the rear 2" blocks down to 1" and keep the bump-stop arms. I'll also check Ford and see if there's a stock piece that does this job at 1" instead of 2".

I have noticed, since I did the rear B codes, and have 2-2.5" of rake, that the straight-line feel is not as nice.

 

Nice X! Mine is pretty much identical except its a V10 and the wheels have a bit of corrosion. I also yanked the center console and am in the process of installing jump seat I picked up on Ebay.

 

..... have not installed it yet. Got it when I bought these, to fix my problem of being 6'5" and having no head support in an accident.

Check this link out: ExcursionF250Seats - mwsmith's Photos

 

Very nice!