Floor Rust help advice
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Freshman User
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From: Franklin NC
Floor Rust help advice
Ive got an 89 f250 single cab 4x4 ive been trying to restore it. My fist actual project trying to learn. I took the bench seat out and the matting and rubber up and there is a ton of rust. It is mostly along the outside edges and i guess the last person who had it screwed down a metal plate over a chunk on the driver side its bad. Holes on each side of cab floor. Im thinking about getting out what i can then using Krud Kuttr rustex from walmart then fiber glassing then prime and paint. Any advice im still new to this dont have a welder or plasma cutter "right now" or i would just cut it and weld new chunk in. Also i was recently laid off so low on funds trying to keep it under 50 bux. I can get pics if yall wanna see some of it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Acworth, GA
Don't Bondo or Fiberglass over the floor rust holes, it will only keep rusting and rotting. In order to repair them properly you have to weld in new patch panels. Sorry about your non-work situation. Being low on money, I would just find some new sheet metal and screw in some patches until it could be repaired properly.
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Freshman User
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From: Franklin NC
what about rust bullet i heard it works good eats right threw it? cut out what i can do that then fiberglass? honestly this truck will never be perfect its all banged up i would be happy if i could get 6-10 years out of it tops. All the steering it shot and the bed is from a junkyard looks like someone got happy with a bball bat lol i just want it for mud and tow a camper for a year or 2 then just a farm truck
Cargo Master
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From: Acworth, GA
I've used Chassis Saver and coated it with Rustoleum before. Before applying that I used a combination of Vinegar and Naval Jelly, and some Rust-Mort. I can't say how long it will hold up yet, as it was only done last year. After using it I found that 2 coats of epoxy primer will do a much better job at keeping the rust from coming back once the metal is cleaned and prepped properly. I have some pictures here; https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...build-log.html
I am currently working on my floor-board. I am using the Vinegar and Naval Jelly again to treat the semi-rusted areas. But, I will be cutting and patching the very bad areas with fresh metal before spraying 2 coats of epoxy primer down to prevent any rust through. Just be warned that you have to clean and neutralize the chemical that you use to treat the rust before you put any paint or anything else over it, or it will be all for naught. Post some pictures.
I am currently working on my floor-board. I am using the Vinegar and Naval Jelly again to treat the semi-rusted areas. But, I will be cutting and patching the very bad areas with fresh metal before spraying 2 coats of epoxy primer down to prevent any rust through. Just be warned that you have to clean and neutralize the chemical that you use to treat the rust before you put any paint or anything else over it, or it will be all for naught. Post some pictures.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Acworth, GA
Thanks, but it's a long way from done. I'm working on it in my spare time and as the money comes in, but every little bit adds up in the end. And, I'm trying to teach myself how to do as much of it as I can. Good luck with yours.
P.S. Here's another good forum that I belong to. I've learned a bunch about paint and body work here; http://www.spiuserforum.com/forum.php
And Their products; http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/index.htm
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: New York
I believe the '87 - '96 cab sheet metal is all the same (can someone confirm?), so I would think you should be able to find some good rust-free donors in your southern local U-Pull junkyards. A cordless sawzall is your best friend for such a task.
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pedant
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
An .045 disc in an angle grinder cuts cleaner.
I never thought I'd use my cordless angle grinder but it sure comes in handy.
I never thought I'd use my cordless angle grinder but it sure comes in handy.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: New York
True, but that's a lot of metal to cut with a grinder. I have both a cordless Dewalt grinder and sawzall - I'd probably bring both into the yard for this job, but mostly use the sawzall. I do have some experience in this regard.... 
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From: Franklin NC
there are no junkyard around here i would have to go far like 45 miles and i dont have a way to haul the stuff back lol u would think there would be a good junkyard where i am but there isnt they only one i know of sux everything is crap and rusted to hell not like it was when i lived in fl
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: New York
I wish there was a decent U-Pull-It as close as 45 miles from me. The ones I have to go to are anywhere from 100 to 150 miles. I don't go unless I have a list.
Cargo Master
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From: Acworth, GA
there are no junkyard around here i would have to go far like 45 miles and i dont have a way to haul the stuff back lol u would think there would be a good junkyard where i am but there isnt they only one i know of sux everything is crap and rusted to hell not like it was when i lived in fl
You still haven't posted any pictures of what needs to be done (as in the before shots).
I would consider doing the repairs in smaller patches if you don't have the room to haul larger panels. I bought one passenger side floor pan replacment panel from LMC for my truck. I am going to cut it for the largest part that needs repair, then cut up the leftover for the small patches that need to be done. I'm hoping not to have to buy any more, and that you won't be able to tell anything once it's completed.
Fleet Mechanic
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From: New York
On my truck, I really should be replacing the rocker, corner, and floor on the driver side, which is three pieces from LMC (or whomever). Assuming I found a rust-free donor at the junkyard (think, southern junkyards), wouldn't I be better off cutting all that out as one piece and then welding in as one piece?
Cargo Master
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From: Acworth, GA
On my truck, I really should be replacing the rocker, corner, and floor on the driver side, which is three pieces from LMC (or whomever). Assuming I found a rust-free donor at the junkyard (think, southern junkyards), wouldn't I be better off cutting all that out as one piece and then welding in as one piece?
That would depend on how much cutting and welding you want to do, and also on the amount of rust repair needed. I read somewhere that you really want to keep the repair panel to a minimum if possible, unless you just want to do the whole thing. Here's a good read on the subject; https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html
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