HI, my 96 was flooded back in 2010. The engine finally gave out a month ago. I picked up a 94 302 from a junk yard and swapped them. Their are a couple of connections hanging that won't plug in or have No where to go.

It starts right up and idles a little high but great.
The problem is after it runs for a while and is turned off. It won't restart hot at all. It will crank and crank, but won't run. It won't start with starting ether either. The exhaust won't line up with manifolds either.
I'm just looking for some advice and pointers. Bad coil? No back pressure? Thanks

 

You bought a pre-obd 2 engine and put it into an obd 2 truck. Thats your problem.

 

I do disagree with the previous post. Yes there are a few differences between an OBD-II and OBD-I system but your problem is not likely caused by said differences. Sound more like a PIP (stator) issue. This is located in the distributor. Many posts here about this very common issue.

Do a search on stator or PIP and look at the recent posts of how to diagnosis the root cause and repair it.

 

Thanks for the support man. Their is always a way. It's hard to believe because it runs better and stronger than my old engine - until I turn it off. The fuel pump kicks on and almost turns on but puffs smoke. After that it acts like it's not getting fuel.

 

OK that's bad. There are several sensor/electrical differences between OBD-2 and OBD-1 engines including the crank sensor and DPFE EGR system, so what you have to do is transplant those parts from your dead '96 to the '94 to make all wiring harness connections complete. Then you need to pull the codes to make sure everything is clear and nothing else is missing and if so you should have a correct functioning motor, the basic engine is the same so there is no good reason this '94 won't work in your truck but all the right parts have to be present and connected.

 

I left the original harness with the 94 on the engine when I first put it in. It wouldn't start. I switched the '94 harness with the '96 and it ran. However, either way there will be connections unplugged until I actually look up a diagram of what each wire is and where it goes, and probably cut and replace connections. It's just a lot of this and that. Either way it runs great.
I did some quick research on the pip stator or pip. From what I read, a bad pip may keep the injectors from firing. Having a hard time understanding why these would be interrupted when the engine is hot. I asked some folks who helped on it about it not starting hot, and the first thing that was brought up was the coil or coil pack. I switched the '94 pack back in and it wouldnt start. It's a hybrid and I'm real excited to get my legacy back up and ready to drive again.

I've been pretty busy, moving to a new house, fractured my ankle, working on my truck. If you reply, I appreciate any advice I can get. If I dont, it's because I'm being a baby and hoppin around somewhere.

Update: "if the pip sensor is going bad you can have intermittent no starts or extended crank starts, it may start and run fine, however the next time you try to start it say after work, it won't start, wait a while( perhaps a long while ) and it may start and act like normal for a day or two." Found this on wiki.answers.com.
I sure hope this is true, As soon as I'm settled down I'm going to either switch distributer from '94 back in, or see about new pip. Anyone know if I can get just the sensor?

 

Very well could be the pip. exact symptoms of what happened to my 95 a couple years ago. Was about 2 miles from home,truck died,wouldn't restart. It was 1 a.m in the morning,didn't want to bug anybody for a ride,so I walked home,got my car,spare coil and some tools. got back to the truck,started up like nothing was ever wrong!! Drove it a mile before it died again. waited another hour then drove it home. No way in hell was I going to pay for a tow truck,lol. did all kinds of testing until finally the pip sensor fault showed in the computer codes. replaced the distributor,truck has ran fine ever since!!

 

It would be easier to buy a new Distributer than try to replace the stator in the Distributer?
Dropped the truck off at muffler shop to get exhaust on headers and new studs. Asked the guy to see why it wouldn't start hot. He said it was probably the heat blowing on the starter...picked it up, drive it to safe point to make sure everything was good for the longer trip home. Drove an hour in 100 degree and heavy rain. Got home, turned it off. Said a hail Mary and it wouldn't restart which I figured.

Should I look into a new icm too?

 

The PIP isn't that hard to change as long as none of your small screws inside the dist. are corroded in place. They tend to snap off easily. Plus the drive gear on the bottom is pressed on and if you don't have the right tools could be a pain.
It's around $35 for a new PIP sensor and $75 for a remaned dist.
I'd pull the dist. And ICM off and swap it for the other ones you have.

 

Since the issue is easily reproducible you can try using either of these procedures to narrow down the root cause. This will save you $money$ in the long run.

Part 1 -Ford Ignition Module Test. Fender Mounted Module (ICM).

SBFTech.com TFI Module/Hall Sensor Testing Procedure

If it turns out your PIP is bad, more than likely IMHO, then you need to decide which route to go. Changing the PIP is a PITA but very doable for the DIY'er.

If you choose the change the entire distributor be very careful with the "remanufactured" units. Many of them have bad PIPs in them already. Most "rebuilders" do not heat test their products. Cardone is one of the worst offenders. Be prepared to go through several distributors before finding a good one. Might I suggest a new one???

Follow one of the procedures above before tossing on parts, then suffering a worse fate.

 

x2. You need to have everything hooked up right with the correct parts before you try to troubleshoot running issues....

 

Thanks for the test links. I'm waiting on my parents car at Toyota...pretty excited to check everything.

 

If I may, I just ran into this problem rebuilding the upper end of my 460 with RHP parts. It turned out the hands on expert that helped me didnt know how to properly set a distro so it was one tooth retarded. Id start there, because mine would do the same thing. Shut off as soon at it got into open loop.