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getting ready to sand blast the dash and inside of my cab got a bunch of 80 grit glass beads to work with. do you guy think this will do without warping my metal? im also thinking of doing my aluminum hurricane rims.
getting ready to sand blast the dash and inside of my cab got a bunch of 80 grit glass beads to work with. do you guy think this will do without warping my metal? im also thinking of doing my aluminum hurricane rims.
I understand about the outer layer of the metal heating and causing warpage, etc. To be honest, I sand blasted a whole truck once, inside and out, frame and all. After priming and blocking just like one would anyway with proper body work, I cant tell it. I still drive it. If there are pits in the metal from the removed rust, after the primer sets, fill them with primer putty and block sand as usual.
I wouldn't expect glass beads to heat or distort the metal... they also aren't the best for paint/rust removal. More aggressive sand/black beauty/aluminum oxide can cause distortion. Any of them will get in every nook and cranny with glass being the worst.
I second the idea to sand and/or wire wheel it then use a rust stop primer (Red Rustoleum, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, Rust Bullet). Any of those can be top coated with automotive enamal. If you use Rustoleum just make sure it is well dried and cured first.
I tried to blast the underside framework of my hood and I was extremely careful to stay away from the exterior metal. Even though I was careful you could still see the outline of the support structure on the topside. Did it matter after 2 coats of high build? No, but I would rather use alternative methods in situations where I'm dealing with thinner metals. Why put dents in your dent?
Like I've said before...I'm no bodyman but I'm learning fast.