ok, so my 77 F250 will be my first COMPLETE (my work..start to finish) truck. My dad and i have restored MANY antique tractors before... so we both have most of the experience needed. what my question is... can you guys give me like a good run down/check list that i need to do (cosmetics wise, all mechanical problems taken care of) so i can stop being so giddy and actually do things that make sense. already have new floor pans, cab corners,and lower door skins in. thanks so much.

oh yea... its gonna be the Dark Metallic Jade Green (code B i believe) if that makes any kinda difference

 

Sounds like you're having a lot of fun bringing old metal to new life. Congrats.

I'm not sure what you're looking for as far as a checklist goes.

Are you wanting to know what equipment you need to begin bodywork, sanding, welding?
Maybe other areas of known cancer on that year truck?

 

Not every job is exactly the same, and we don't know what your dealing with.
Here is my opinions for a long lasting job, less wasted money on something not really needed, and least chance of a product you used causing a problem.
If thats original paint, on a truck that old, I would first plan on stripping the paint off, and see exactly what you are dealing with, repairs needed, and start with a fresh base of modern 2k materials. Then get epoxy primer on the metal on whatever you get stripped before the end of the day to protected, or as soon as you possibly can in the case of metal thats been blasted.

If the metal is clean and rust free, and you can sand it with 80 grit, then epoxy primer is all you really need over the metal, it will have good adhesion to sanded metal, and provide good corrosion protection. Epoxy is also the only primer type that is non porous and completely seal the underlying metal against air or moisture reaching it.

Any rust should be cut out and replaced if there is holes, If its still sound, and only surface rust, then it can be removed by carefully media blasting the area, and then epoxy primed. I am not a believer in rust convertors and other miracles in a can, or using products like etching primer or metal prep if its not really needed. Physically removing all rust and then applying epoxy primer I believe is the most fool proof against future failures or having an incompatability because something was used incorrectly. Epoxy is pretty compatable with most things, and won't be resolveable or contain an acid that could react, have incompatabilitys with other products, have an adhesion problem, cause problems or bite you in the **** later like self etching primer, metal prep,rust convertors, ect.

Bodyfiller work can be done over epoxy primer, all you have to do is scuff well first with 180 if the epoxy has been applied long enough that it has gotten out of its time window for applying other products.
Some areas are hard to sand and prep, or remove all rust, like inner areas, and would save the etching primers, rust convertors for these areas and use them only if absolutely needed.

Many apply a urethane or polyester primer over epoxy, depending on how wavy the body is and how much work block sanding is needed to get the body straight. They also sand much easier then most epoxy primers do.
You may want to tackle one area at a time, and get the bodywork down to the point that it is ready for blocksanding (or even could go as far as ready for final sanding). That way the amount of work won't seem so overwhelming, and you can concentrate on one area at a time, and plug along until all are ready. Then when all are in primer and ready for blocksanding, you can block the body all out, and reprime all at once and block and reprime as many times as needed that everything is arrow straight and ready to final sand.
Other then that ask any specific questions you have, and sure one of the many knowledgeable members here can help.

As far as brands, there are many good ones. Everyone gets to have their favorites, but all in all , the major paint lines are pretty comparable in quality and price in equal level system lines. Although most will recommend you stay with one manufacture, most companys epoxy and urethane primers and sealers, basecoat and clearcoat seem pretty compatable with one another. One thing you should absolutely not substitute is someone elses activator in another product. Although a good grade reducer can probably be used in another companys product, its probably best to use the recommended stuff. Some lines have special reducers, like dupont chromabase basecoat, which uses a basemaker, so using another companys reducer in this instants could cause problems. Ask for the products data sheet for the materials you buy. They contain a lot of valueable information on proper use, and cover a lot more then they print on the cans. Many of the manufacturers also have them available online. Also proper skin, eye and respiratory protection is mandatory with modern 2k materials.

 

thanks a bunch on that... really helpful. i have all of the rust removed with patch panels put in... i was just wondering what all you guys did as far as frame and underside of the cab goes also. this is a project that i am dying to see done and i just want a list to go by so im not gettin too giddy and doin pointless things

 

As far as frame, and underside areas, some just use an epoxy primer, as it will provide corrosion protection, but with these areas not really exposed to uv, it will hold up okay (epoxy primer as a top coat in time will chalk exposed to uv, as it doesn't have uv protectors). Whatever you use, I would probably spray epoxy primer down first if you take it to bare metal.
Others paint frames with a top coat, a polyurethane would be most durable, or some even go as far as having frames and suspension parts powdercoated, which should be more durable then any paint you spray through your gun. Or you could use an undercoating or some kind of rust proofing coating or bedliner. It all depends on what you want to spend, how much prep you want to do, and the final look you want. I am not a fan of products such as por15.
Southern Polyurethanes makes an epoxy, many claim is good stuff at a very fair price. It sprays a bit glossier then most epoxys which are normally on the flat side or semi gloss. Its also suppose to sand well if you need to, most epoxys are kind of tough to sand, and want to ball up the paper if you sand it dry. I haven't gotten a chance to use their epoxy, but I've used there clearcoat, and will use again on future jobs. If I ever get to work on my truck, its what I plan to spray on the frame ect, and want to keep cost down, and not paint over it. You probably could even clearcoat over epoxy and not have to spray color as well if you are going for a different gloss level (either a clear with a flattener added to the point you want for gloss level or regular high gloss clear if you want glossy), and the epoxy is the color you are looking for.
Here is a link to a picture someone posted on the web of his mustang shell and undercarriage with spi epoxy on it, so you can kind of judge the look it would give.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...428cj/62-1.jpg
here it is with spi bedliner
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...28cj/126-2.jpg

 

where could i get ahold of some of these spi bedliner and epoxy primer products?

 

http://southernpolyurethanes.com
Probably one of the best paint companys for taking care of customers and answering questions. I was a ppg guy, till I found out about spi and its quality/price, and will order more products if future calls, only used the clear and reducers so far.

The few times I've ordered, I got mine through baker pbe, as there is no supplier in my area. Good people to deal with, and shipping both times I ordered was fast and very very reasonable. http://bakerpbe.com
They should be able to tell you if there is a supplier in your area, if there isn't then you can order it through them (spi protects its jobbers territories). I remember reading something that baker will eventually be closing, and hit the lottery. Nice to see it happen to good people. Don't know what the plan is for distributorship afterwards if no jobber in your territory. Here is the bakers website.
Also there is a forum you can join if you wish for users and questions here (even if about another manufacturers product, and there are project threads and pictures with most using spi products). :: Create Forum free Forums

Good luck with your truck.