Reading as much as I can from all the smart folk here to diagnose my empty reading fuel gauge after putting 15 gallons in the tank, and have determined I need a new float on my fuel sender!

I know RnR would be a snap by dropping the tank, but would REALLY like to avoid that. The most reliable vehicle I've ever owned is a '77 F-150 that my grandfather bought in '78. Has the dual tanks, and the one in question is the rear/main tank.

Also, diagrams I've found here in posts at the FTE don't make it clear to me how the retainer comes off: is it something twisted by hand, does it require a special tool, or does one tap it a couple times on the edge with a screw driver? I haven't been under it yet, but was at the PnP the other day looking at one in the air (okay, stacked on the rims - scary but stable...) and couldn't determine for sure. And not a lot of room - without dropping the tank. Just thinking, all those 35 year old unions at the filler etc. Pandora's Box if I drop the tank...

Thanks for the correspondance!

 

if you look close at it you'll see the lock ring that's holding it in. you just tap on it and it'll come out

 

Thanks! I'll be diving into it this week once I source the float. Local NapaZoneSchmucks don't carry them - I'm going to have to dig deeper, And prefer a local source to the internets,

Think I can pull this off leaving the tank in place?

 

I just bought a sender, tank & tank strap's from LMC. little pricey but it all seamed to fit in without any issue's

 

Just got one from my local Ford dealer. About $15.00.

 

Assuming this is an aft tank, the sending unit comes in from the top and you'll need to drop the tank.

 

I doubt you can do it with the tank installed, unless you have a 3" body lift installed. Just drop the tank, its not that hard and will make pulling the sending unit quick and easy.

Or remove the bed, lol, but as far as dropping the tank...

Spray the nut/bolts (4) where the tank straps bolt to the frame.

1. Having it empty makes it lighter, siphon the gas out.
2. Disconnect the elec connector, push on 2 pin plug.
3. Loosen the hose clamps on the filler neck/vent lines at the tank end.
4. Position a 1ftx1ft square piece of plywood and a floor jack to support it. I use a 2 ft long piece of 4x4 standing on end. Or use some fence wire to temp tie it in, remove the hdwr holding the straps.
5. Passenger side drop first and then carefully slide the filler neck/vent line off the tank.
Sometimes it takes a #4 flat tip and some persuasion on the filler neck, just do not get to carried away.

I am sure the lock ring will have 1 to 3 bent tabs holding it in place, un bend them.
Remove lock ring, remove sending unit pay attention to how it is positioned in the tank.

Elec connection are to the bottom I believe?

The old float should be brass and probably has a hole in it and it is filling up with gas and giving you false readings.

It is simply crimped or pressed into the float arm wire. Just pop it out to remove and replace, and remember to replace the sending unit gasket itself.

Once you reinstall the sending unit (correct position?) and the lock ring, just rebend the tabs and then remember to replace the anti chaff material between the tank and support straps. Or reuse your if it still good? Insp the bottom curved edge of the tank where the straps rest (common rust area).

If you have a little pitting but no hole, wire brush it clean , and put a JB weld cover patch on that area.

Someone actually sells the anti-chaff stuff ?? FTE post up this answer.... Some people use old inner tube cut into strips and some use old piece of ratchet strap.

And this is a great time to clean out that tanks of any old gunk/trash. As far as reinstall put some vaseline on the tank filler/vent neck to make sliding it back on easier.

This whole job is alot easier with 2 people, BTW. You can glue the tank strap material to the straps if you are running a one man show, and use the wire trick to hold it once in place.

You know since you are doing all this work you might as well just replace the whole sending unit with a new one?

And if you tank is a rusted out....

MTS COMPANY, L.C. - Ford Pickup fuel tanks

1973-79 Ford Pickup Truck Fuel Tank

 

Fantastic! Thanks for the step by step! Would much rather leave it in place, but... Gotta do what ya gotta do! Hopefully can rope in a buddy, but never know. And as you say, great opportunity to inspect the condition of the tank. Truck has lead a good garaged life, but never know.

I'll report back this week or next. Thanks again!

 

Garaged all its life could mean....

1. Tank was full of gas that could mean it was has varnished
2. Was not full and there for condensation has formed and its a rusty mess in there.

Before you start try to get it to run and gum up the carb might as well drop it replace the sending unit, air blow out the fuel lines front to back (sending unit to fuel pump), get a new fuel pump and at least 2 inline clear fuel filters. Tha way after its cleaned out and more varnished fuel flakes off, the inline filter will catch it and it will not make it to the carb.

A cheap way to clean it can be a 3" small piece of chain put inside and shake it around to brake up any rust and varnish, also heard a hand full of nuts and bolts.
Always count how much what ever you put in it.

Or there are business that can boil out and spray coat a rust inhibitor inside, or go to my link and get a plastic one.

 

I bought a plastic one. Its really nice, stronger than the original steel one (which had a ton of rust), and won't ever rust. Plus it won't spark should it ever contact the asphalt for some reason.