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Ready to put the new bed back on my 1979 4X4 LWB. When I removed the old one I had to destroy most of the mounting bolts. Is there a kit or bag of the corect bolts, washers, nuts from someone? Did a cuple of searchs but did not find anything so it must be easy. Thanks
FORGET LMC! Their bolts are just overpriced regular carriage bolts that you can get at Home Depot or Lowe's for a lot less (I have a set).
Dennis Carpenter has the correct bolts, but even his kit isn't perfect. It has regular nuts and split lock washers. The original nuts were crimp lock nuts but the bolts themselves are correct.
This is the bolt from Capenter's kit.
only the 2 inside bolts at the front had the phillips on top, if your truck had those. Not all did. I wouldn't really even bother installing them, I'm not sure why them put them there. I would NOT waste money on ordering the bolt kits. As said, carriage bolts will work just fine. I wouldn't use a split washer as my sole means of bolt retention, either. The bed has some give to it and they can get slack, so a split washer isn't reliable. I'd just go to home depot or lowes and get carriage bolts (sorry not sure what size), washers for the bottom, and appropriate sized nylock nuts.
Dennis Carpenters bolts have a smooth top. You must have a crew/supercab. Regular cab beds didn't have the phillips/torx head bolts.
I'll look for the p/n. I remember the cost was $25.00 for the set. For the nuts I'm going to use some flanged crimp nuts that I got from AMK Products in Winchester, VA.
Dennis Carpenter
p/n 384865KIT
Bed to frame bolt kit
All except w/ tool box and aux fuel (this is where the phillips heads come in).
In the picture the nut I'm going to use is just to the right end of the bed bolt.
We just did the bed bolts on the '76 my son and I a building . We used 1/2" carriage bolts with nylock nuts . I opted to get all 8 longer bolts but you could measure the lengths pretty easy .
only the 2 inside bolts at the front had the phillips on top, if your truck had those. Not all did. I wouldn't really even bother installing them, I'm not sure why them put them there.
Actually there is a very good reason why Ford used a Phillips head bolt.
To remove the carriage bolts you remove the nut from below and then pull the bolt out from above.
If you have dual tanks the left forward bolt is not accessible from below unless you remove the tank. So Ford used a Phillips head bolt in the left forward location only (and a u-clip nut on the frame to secure the nut) so one could remove the bolt and the bed without removing the forward tank.
that would make sense if the phillips head bolts were only used on trucks with a side tank. Only they weren't. My 77 sc sb 2wd had them also, in both front locations, and it only had a rear tank.
that would make sense if the phillips head bolts were only used on trucks with a side tank. Only they weren't. My 77 sc sb 2wd had them also, in both front locations, and it only had a rear tank.
That is correct. On the regular cabs the bed bolts directly to the frame in all locations. On the supercab the two front bolts attach to brackets that are riveted to the top of the frame. Any access to get to a nut is blocked so there are "U" nuts clipped to the bracket. Ford used Phillips head bolts to screw the bolt in.
I actually got one of my severely rusted phillips head bolts out with one of those hammer punch screwdriver things, I can't remember the name. The other one was seized in place, as were all the bed bolts/nuts.
I cut all of mine out except the one by the gas tank, had to grind that one off. Thanks for all the help, being rather senior I need all I can get. (lol)