Powerstrokehelp.com 7.3 performance
#1
Powerstrokehelp.com 7.3 performance
Hi everyone. I have been watching the 3 performance videos for the 7.3 at powerstrokehelp.com and it all seemed to make sense to me. I have however read on this forum that there are a lot of haters here but it seems to apply to the newer videos for 6.0 and newer. I have a 2002 F550 with a manual tranny and am looking for basically exactly what the video states. Maximum power without loss of longevity. Basically what I am going to do is delete the muffler using the rest of the factory exhaust as a straight pipe. I have an AFE cold air intake. Clean fuel tank screen and drill 1/4" holes in fuel rail orifices. Remove check valve from filter assembly. Add Bigg Boost device and Banks compressor wheel and a SCT flash tuner. Lastly and eventually I might add a Superchips digital propane injection system as a final component. Does any of this seem like a bad idea? I tow roughly 10,000lbs fairly regularly (25% of my driving) and have little interest in hot rodding. I have a pyro and boost gauge already. I am looking for better economy particularly when towing and power when I need it. I had a srw F350 w/auto stolen and this is my replacement. It already tows awesome but I may be adding larger tires to help in the sand and add some legs to the 4:88 gearset. I am in no hurry and would love to get some input from all directions to help me make the best decision.
#2
Hi everyone. I have been watching the 3 performance videos for the 7.3 at powerstrokehelp.com and it all seemed to make sense to me. I have however read on this forum that there are a lot of haters here but it seems to apply to the newer videos for 6.0 and newer. I have a 2002 F550 with a manual tranny and am looking for basically exactly what the video states. Maximum power without loss of longevity. Basically what I am going to do is delete the muffler using the rest of the factory exhaust as a straight pipe. I have an AFE cold air intake. Clean fuel tank screen and drill 1/4" holes in fuel rail orifices. Remove check valve from filter assembly. Add Bigg Boost device and Banks compressor wheel and a SCT flash tuner. Lastly and eventually I might add a Superchips digital propane injection system as a final component. Does any of this seem like a bad idea? I tow roughly 10,000lbs fairly regularly (25% of my driving) and have little interest in hot rodding. I have a pyro and boost gauge already. I am looking for better economy particularly when towing and power when I need it. I had a srw F350 w/auto stolen and this is my replacement. It already tows awesome but I may be adding larger tires to help in the sand and add some legs to the 4:88 gearset. I am in no hurry and would love to get some input from all directions to help me make the best decision.
#3
Some of Bill's videos are informative and good to learn, other parts are what we call "his opinion".
Having a good intake, exhaust, fuel supply and programming is what you need. Look at peoples signatures and see what they are running. I tow 10k and with the mods I have works wonderful. Most 4" exhaust systems, and a 6637, S&B, AIS Intake will be suitable. Getting a chip from DP-Tuner or a TS with Tow tunes will make it pull like a mule..
You can forget about drilling out the fuel banjo bolts, not really needed in your case, and if you want to do it anyway have at it. Not a result you will see or feel. Removing the check valve from the fuel bowl will also not provide any additional power or feel. If you get to high horsepower numbers, you will need to do a regulated return to see the fuel improvements to feed your beast. That will eliminate the fuel bowl and banjo bolts.
One piece of advice to you towing regularly is to not go with a Wicked Wheel (Banks Wheel as you call it) but go with a ported housing. Cost is more, but the performance seems to be better and surge (towing) will be non-existent.
Having a good intake, exhaust, fuel supply and programming is what you need. Look at peoples signatures and see what they are running. I tow 10k and with the mods I have works wonderful. Most 4" exhaust systems, and a 6637, S&B, AIS Intake will be suitable. Getting a chip from DP-Tuner or a TS with Tow tunes will make it pull like a mule..
You can forget about drilling out the fuel banjo bolts, not really needed in your case, and if you want to do it anyway have at it. Not a result you will see or feel. Removing the check valve from the fuel bowl will also not provide any additional power or feel. If you get to high horsepower numbers, you will need to do a regulated return to see the fuel improvements to feed your beast. That will eliminate the fuel bowl and banjo bolts.
One piece of advice to you towing regularly is to not go with a Wicked Wheel (Banks Wheel as you call it) but go with a ported housing. Cost is more, but the performance seems to be better and surge (towing) will be non-existent.
#5
Gonna be nice but do not listen to him. Stay away from propane. Heavy and the power gain for the price you could buy a nice set of sticks. A custom tuner, 4 " exhaust and an intake. I wouldn't touch the wheel unless you have surge issues. A set of stage two injectors and a 38r would be a good power gain and also give you an economy jump.
#6
Thanks for the info. This thing already pulls like a mule but larger tires may be in the future. As far as F550 goes does anyone know if they are not compatible with the standard tuners? Also while we are at it does anyone here have a good option for replacing the front 19.5" X6" wheels with something wider. I would love a super single option in the rear but do not want to spend a ton of money. There are so many 20" rims out there, have we found anything compatible with these medium duty trucks. I would be awesome to find a combo with say a 10-12" wide tire with the same rpm as the stock duals.
#7
Anyway as far as replacing the exhaust goes I will get to that when needed. Deleting the muffler should get me more flow than I need until I get farther up the mod ladder... Baby steps, $15 worth of flex pipe and clamps sounds a lot better than 4-$800 in exhaust system. I already have an AFE cold air intake and gauges. I will start with a tuner and may leave it at that. Like I said the thing is already a tow monster.
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#8
Something to consider: I tried the muffler delete for about 10 miles then ripped that POS out and put in a proper 4" exhaust. I hated the sound of the muffler delete and I was underwhelmed by the performance gain. 4" is a whole different story. Here is a video of my 0-40 boost gauge (on right) with 4" exhaust and a stock tune. Select the quality and max it out (if you have the internet bandwidth) to read the gauge better.
Stock Tune 4in Exhaust.MP4 - YouTube
You can accomplish big power gains without going elaborate with the fuel. Here is a sample of what my tuner does on a steep hill.
WOT 80e 4in MAP good.MP4 - YouTube
Stock Tune 4in Exhaust.MP4 - YouTube
You can accomplish big power gains without going elaborate with the fuel. Here is a sample of what my tuner does on a steep hill.
WOT 80e 4in MAP good.MP4 - YouTube
#9
#10
That's the big thing with the 550. Be sure to use a pyro gauge and keep a close eye on those EGT's. Especially when adding a tuner. More power doesn't help if you have a hole in your piston.
I think many of the generic ones will do something, they just won't do it well. Dan ran a diablo on his 550 for a while, and I can't remember what Barney used to run. Most of the custom tuners don't tune for the 550, so maybe that's what you're thinking of. I know Power Hungry Performance has tunes for the 550 and it's waaaaaay better than whatever Barney had before.
Use your gauges to determine what your next step should be. That's what they're there for. Maybe a muffler delete will be fine. If the EGT's spike, maybe you need more airflow, or maybe you need something different in the turbo, or different tuning, etc.
We'll help you all we can, just remember the one size fits all approach does not include your 550.
We'll help you all we can, just remember the one size fits all approach does not include your 550.
#11
#12
#13
Thanks Chet, that's a little bigger than I am shooting for but I love the info. I am looking to spend less than a $1000 over the next year and slowly build up to 5-600lb/ft of torque. As heavy duty as my truck is there should be no structural issues and I am looking for 13-15mpg towing and as close to 20mpg highway unloaded as possible. I have no problem running a digital propane injection system in the distant future but may well be satisfied without it. I may have a very large cabover camper on it someday and would love it not to be a total slug.