AX, I'm not well versed on spring compressors. Do you have a pic of the type you are describing? The one I have has a threaded rod that runs down inside the spring, passes thru the middle of a sturdy plate (not threaded) that lays across the width of the coils then thru a set of two hinged fingers or hooks (these ARE threaded) that engage the coils. As I crank I down the fingers pull their coil toward the plate and it's coil. Are you talking about something different? It sounds like what you are describing maybe is on the outside of the spring?

Thanks for all your help on this!

Tyler

 

AX, is this what you are talking about?



or maybe this?



I looked on the internet and I don't see a picture of what I have been using. I borrowed it from an O'Reilly auto parts store.

Tyler

 

The real question is why the Balljoints are allowing such articulation. When the spindle is connected properly the spring should be seated on both sides, and should NOT be able to extend as far as what you've shown us.

Sam

 

I can't answer that one. The ball joints were all preassembled/installed when the front end kit came.

 

Yes that's the type I was referring to (both pix are variants of the same design) Harbor Fright sells a set of those for 13.00. I think I have a set in the garage along with the bear trap style. I have used them for coilovers (what I'm usually compressing) but I finally built a hydraulic compressor that works really slick for COs. I know the type you are talking about, seems they would be really difficult to use unless you have a large enough hole in the center of the spring seat to take it out thru.

 

It comes out through the bottom. It works ok I guess. I've got nothing to compare it to though. It's the only one I've ever used.

 

The correct side of the spring is down as there's a "step" in the perch to accommodate the end of the spring. You're right about the sway bar having to be disconnected on both sides.

 

Yes, I have the entire frame, but the set up is the same. Can you lower the a-arm enough to muscle the spring up onto the perch on the engine side? If so, clamp the Vice-grip onto the the a-arm (from the bottom with the handle at 6 o'clock) to provide a bump to keep the spring from jumping off of the perch as you tighten the ball-joint nuts on the spindle to compress the spring.

 

Ax, I did that and it was nearly impossible due to clearance issues. Sam is correct in that the only spring compressor worth wasting your time on is the one with the threaded rod the goes up through the center of the spring. It would be relatively easy to fabricate one from threaded rod and some steel plate.

 

Be VERY VERY carefull when playing with springs !!!!!

 

Hey Sam,
Do you think maybe once I install the steering rack it will restrict the spindle/ball joint/A arm movement a bit more, thus helping keep the spring seated?
Just a thought.
Tyler

 

Hey Sam,
Do you think maybe once I install the steering rack it will restrict the spindle/ball joint/A arm movement a bit more, thus helping keep the spring seated?
Just a thought.
Tyler

 

No, the rack really has no impact on travel

 

Hm. Dang it.

 

I to ran in to this problem, and was told by my father-in-law to skip it till I got the rest of the body on for weight to fully compress the springs to drop into the spring perch pocket. And I did till several year have passed by and I forgot to re-address the issue.

Driving back from DMV just getting my licens plates , first half mile driving. (good times) " TILL " the speed bump in the mini mall parking lot. First time I crawled over not problems. second one hit it a little faster, And then it set.

I went from 3 1/4 inch cross member ground clearance to 3/4 inch cross member ground clearance in a instant.


My advice is to skippit for now. But red tag it after you have more weight to compress the springs at ride wieght. You could add misc. sand bags, bar bell weights , tires filled with dirt, scrap meral and water tubs to weight the frame for now. Just don't do what I did, I don't recommend it!