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Bought this truck at auction a few days ago. Started drive home and noticed temp gauge almost pegged full hot. Stopped and left it and pickup up later that day with trailer. Got home and started and ran it. Will not overheat at idle. Gauge fluctuates between full cold and 1/2 at idle. Rev up and temp drops to full cold. Drive around town under 35 and it stays between 1/2 and 3/4. Get on the highway and Pegs full hot. Replace thermostat and flushed system. Lots of rusty water and chunks of rust/mud poured out. Upper rad hose is firm and hot. Lower rad hose is warm soft. Bypassed heater core and still over heats. I can run water hose from top hole on radiator and water crosses threw radiator and pours out the bottom so I don't think it's clogged. It's not the head gasket, I have no smoke, no milky oil and no oil in coolant. Fan clutch seems fine, I can spin it with the engine off and feel resistance. Truck hasnt boiled over while running hot so the gauge may be wrong. I'm stumped and have no idea what else to do. If it means anything the truck runs very rough and pulled up a misfire on cylinder #1 and had a iac code.
How many miles are on the truck? If miles > 100K, the impeller on the water pump may be worn/rusted down to the point that little coolant is circulating through the system. Under that condition, coolant may be circulating enough the handle the heat load with the engine idling or moderate speed but not enough to handle the heat load created at high speed.
Let us know what you find out when you pull the water pump.
Find the cause of your cylinder 1 issue and the overheating issue may disappear. Did you do a compression test? Did you check timing belt to see if the belt jumped a cog?
Too little cooling in the radiator can do what you are describing, and the flush having "chunks" in it point to partially clogged radiator. Pull the radiator and have it professionally cleaned and repaired. A good shop should do that for about $65 (my area) depending on how bad it is.