Looks like I'm getting pretty close to finally doing a powertrain swap on my truck, it's my first time doing such a thing though. I'm 95% certain that I will be swapping to a '69 460 with C6 transmission. I'll eventually be swapping out the axles and adding a transfer case, but unless I manage to get all of those parts at the same time, I'll just go back and do it later.


I'm trying to be sure of what all I'm getting myself into before I start as this is my first engine swap. Will I need to take the front clip off, or can I just drop the whole thing in there? Wiring? Throttle? Choke cable? Exhaust? Fitment issues? Firewall clearance?

What about the mounts for it, I know Mid-fifty sells them for this set up, which works best? How do I figure out where exactly to place them?

How about setting up the linkage to use an automatic?

If anyone has a link to a step-by-step installation like this that would help me out a lot. I'm trying to avoid missing something and being stuck with it in pieces for a while.

Thanks

 

Take the front clip off. You'll need access all around the engine a number of times, doing all the details, as well as putting the engine/tranny in and out several times, shifting it around. Adding a transfer case and 4wd front axle will complicate clearances a lot. I can't give much info there. Pre-engineered mounts will make things a lot easier, since someone else has solved a lot of the placement issues. If you use a tubular mount. you can mount the engine centered or offset for steering or starter clearance. If off setting, keep the engine parallel to the frame, not angled.There should be sufficient firewall and floor clearance. An electric cooling fan will also help simplify and is more efficient. The stock throttle linkage should be able to be modified to work, or you could use a cable linkage. Later model engines use automatic or electric choke. The actual engine wiring is minimal. Copy or use the original tranny linkage for this engine tranny combo. Exhaust has many possibilities from using stock exhaust manifolds to headers. Ask Mid Fifty and/or a header manufacturer like Sanders for fitment. Any good muffler shop should be able to build the rest of the exhaust. You'll likely need a driveshaft modified or built.

 

Stephen

this might help... might not ...but it will give you some things to think about
engine mounting

front clip off makes it easy... BUT you need to know where the radiator will be to put your engine in the right place.

I don't know what front suspension you have but you're gonna have to fab up (or use cut/paste mounts like Mid 50) engine mounts and transmission mounts...

The engine will fit... mine is about 1.25" from the firewall and 1.5" off the MII crossmember... I'm using a rear sump pan and the crossmember is 'relieved" for it.

The transmission cover/hump may/may not have to be altered for the C-6 depending on where you put it.

Make sure you leave enough room on the drivers side for column and shift linkage.

Throttle is just hardware and you might be able to use some of what you have.

Wiring is straight forward... you probably have the coil wiring and alternator wiring already... connectors and maybe wire splicing in order

I don't recall what you had before so it's hard to step-by-step it... the article will give you some general guidelines that are true for any swap.

Driveshaft will probably have to be shortened as the 460/C-6 is pretty long. If it were me, I'd try to mount engine/trans as a unit. It's easier to get everything lined up ...level...plumb and degreed in.

You might have to offset to the pass side for clearance... not a problem as long as you keep the engine/trans center line parallel to the pinion center line... see my driveline phasing article if you're not sure what that means.

There is also an article on building a transmission cross member on my page if you need to fab one up... you might be able to alter your present


All the stuff you mentioned is just 'stuff' The exhaust will have to be fabbed up from either the manifolds or headers... a competent muffler man can do that and probably tie it into existing... if you're running dual mufflers. Choke cable ??? use an electric choke and loose the cable

fitment issues ?? not particularly although with hood/fenders/inner fenders in place it's gonna get you breathing hard loading the breech with all that engine... pull the hood... make sure you got headroom and a hoist that can handle the height and weight... I think I'd pull the front clip... remount the radiator mount and squeeze that pig in there... there's plenty of room in the engine compartment... and it's a fun afternoon project... or fun week project or two weeks.. I've had my 460 in and out at least 5 times... but with only the cab mounted.

An engine leveller can be your new best friend... google it.


pay very good attention to the safety aspect of the article above... it's very important.. we want Stephen around for a long time...

one more thing you need..... helpers
later
Johnm

 

Be aware that the only 1968/71 FoMoCo vehicles with 460's were Lincoln's and Continental Mark III's.

1972 was the first year the 460 was offered in Thunderbirds, 1973 for Ford & Merc Passenger Cars.

1968/72 Ford/Merc's were only available with 429's. The 1968/73 429 shares the same bore, same block as the 460 and has the same block casting numbers.

Stroke: 429 = 3.59" / 460 = 3.85."

1978 was the last year the 460 was available in Passenger Cars. 460 offered in 1973/77 F100's, 1973/79 F150/350's, 1982/97 F250/350, 1975/97 E250/350. All 1968/82 460's have a C6.

1983 was the first year the 460 was available with 4WD and a manual trans, F250/350 only.

 

If you are going 4wd you won't have the issue of clearance for the oil pan. There will be gobs of space between the axle and engine.

 

Thanks for the replies. Whole lot of good information I need to know, ha.

The engine is from a '69 Lincoln Continental, thanks for the information on those, be helpful in finding a 4wd transmission if need be too.


Seems I might be best off getting all my parts and then putting everything in. Even at recently looking at axles, the whole gearing issue might effect my choice of powertrain. Wouldn't think much of it till I find I need at least 4.56 gearing with 37" tires. Then again if I go diesel it will be around 3.50 which is much easier to come across. The lower gearing requires a different spool, so if I have to respool things it's about $1200, more than a cost of a good set of axles. What a pain.

 

Steve,

I finally got back to working on mine. (I'm just putting a 292 + E4OD in it)

If I was going to do a 460 (and I almost did because I had one that came out of my boat) I would either use a ZF-S-542/547 or an E4OD like I have now.

You're going to have a BIG HEAVY TRUCK with LOW gearing! you'll definitely want a transmission with Over-Drive.

The ZF is a REALLY nice 5 speed trans with OD. They were standard in Ford trucks and there's 460 version that works with a 4x4.

Also, if you must have an automatic, the E4OD is also available, was also used with the 460 AND 4x4's (but you'll need a box to control it unless you find a newer EFI 460 which already has a box to control it)

The E4OD has OD AND a locking torque convertor. you're gonna use a little less of that $4+ gas with one......


Both of the above transmissions were used in the F-150 up to and including the F-450.

You're going to have *some* problems getting the left exhaust manifold to NOT HIT the steering box. (newer trucks have the steering box in front of the axle.)

You can use aftermarket engine mounts and you've probably seen the ones Mid-Fifty sells and others.


I built my own out of steel plate and (dodge) Cummins engine mounts. (they were around $7 each + shipping which I think was free!!) Everything was welded with my Miller Synchrowave 180 TIG (GTAW) welder.

BIG TIRE!








There's plenty of room for the exhaust down-pipe to make a sharp bend-back and down.






I am going to remove the oil filter and move it to a point in front of the mount using the OMC adapter below. (it came off my formerly OMC 460 powered boat)

Incidentally, the adapter is sitting directly above the mount point for the steering box. ANY exhaust manifold with a "rear-dump" would run right into it.