UGGGGHHHHHH I rebuilt it, did it right cleaned all mating surfaces, new lube and I still have a noise out of the drivers side! I put it in 4x4 with hubs unlocked and noise seemed to go away. I replaced drivers side bearing hub assembly in June, could it be bad already (bought online from ebay big name supplier) could the spindle bearing be bad already?? I am pulling what little hair I have out!

 

My brother got a set of bearings from Napa for his 02 dually and one side went bad inside of 6 months, so it is not impossible that you got a bad part from the get go.

 

Let me back up a little and explain the rebuild process that I encountered during reassembly. The Axle shaft seals/knuckle seals are pressed on the out put shaft of the front axle. A cold chisel and a hammer and a fair amount of patients and I was able to get the old seals off. I put the output half of the axle shaft in the freezer for several hours while I did other things. I clamped the output shaft in a B&D workmate and with a piece of 3 1/2 inch pipe and a large hammer drove the new seals on, a press would be much easier! The spindle bearings can be driven out real easy with a long drift and a hammer from the front side of the assembly. I cleaned the opening and greased the spindle bearing set it in place and with a block of wood and a hammer drove it in, then using a socket gently tapped it the rest of the way in. Cleaned the differential cover mating surface with an air grinder with a floppy sand paper head. I covered the carrier with a trash bag and used the same air grinder to clean the pig mating surface. I used high temp oil resistant RTV and put a bead on the inside of the bolt holes and a bead on the out side of the bolt holes all the way around the diff cover, I also made sure to go around each bolt hole. I found a couple of bolts that were the same size as the differential cover bolts and cut the heads off, threaded them in on opposite sides as a guide and bolted the cover up to the point the RTV just started to squeeze out, and let it set till I was done with everything else then snugged up the bolts. The U joints from Auto Zone did not fit, the cup gasket and gasket mating surface on the joint did not come off with the cup. Went back to Auto Zone and they had nothing that could be made to fit. I took a chance at Advance Auto and they had the U joints that fit and they looked like a very high quality joint. I got the U joints changed and called it a night. The next morning I finished the rebuild with the bearing hub assembly, Mile Marker Hubs and the rest of the required items. Feeling like I had conquered the beast, took the truck for a ride. I left the driveway went about half a mile and the noise was back in the drivers side.
I locked the hubs and drove and the noise seemed to go away, so I unlocked the hubs and put the transfer case in 4 high, again no noise. I then decided that the only thing that was not normally turning with everything unlocked is the spindle bearing on the drivers side. This is the same bearing assembly I changed out in June!
I stopped and picked up a spindle bearing and tore into the drivers side again, drove the spindle bearing out and smacked the new one in. The initial ride was good, no noise in a 3 mile drive. I will drive it to work in the A.M. and see how it acts. I am really hoping this solves the problem.
I am annoyed that the spindle bearing may have already failed from a name brand in bearings, but I also realize just how important the axle shaft seal/knuckle seal is, that is the only thing protecting the spindle bearing!
I am also beginning to wonder if it is worth spending top dollar for a name brand bearing hub over the cheaper imports, are the name brand hubs really a U.S. made product?
Will post what I find after a couple days of driving, next on the to do list sway arm bushings yee haa!