To begin with, the wiper-switch is fine; I am changing some of the wiring.

I can just barely get my hand on the plug that connects to the back of the switch.

I am working completely by feel and cannot see any of this.


Question #1 = What releases the electrical plug/wires from the wiper-switch ??


Question #2 = What size/type of socket unscrews the nut that holds the switch to the dash ??

I have previously trimmed away the plastic "pocket" around the switch stem such that dash trim removal should not be necessary to access/remove the switch.

There is a big auxilliary switch panel that prevents my looking straight in at the wiper-switch stem/nut and every socket I have poked in there has been a no-go.

Thanks for any help.

 

The plug just goes stright on. It's a PITA to get on and off I know, but there's no secret latch or anything....it's just tight.

I don't remember what size the nut was...I think it was just 1/2"....I'll try to go out and check mine out.

 

I cannot see mine...as you know, it's behind the dash panel. I can peek at it and it seems it's probably bigger then 1/2".

I did look it up in the parts catalog (D3TZ 17512-A) and unfortunately it don't give the demensions.

I did google that part number and came up with lots of variations (chrome, plain, etc...) but what I did find was a picture below. In fact, it was common on my search to find this type as the this part number has been used since 73 (hence the D3 prefix) and back then the nut was exposed. So originally it was not a hex nut...it was something that looked a little dressier.

Mine is a hex...but I wonder if yours has a slot like pictured?

 

Thanks so much for the information.

If mine is indeed slotted like the picture, that would explain why I can't get any six-point socket to fit it.


SO........, the wire-plug is just a TIGHT friction fit and has NO snap-locks or such ?????


If I can un-plug that thing and get it down in the day-light, then I won't have any need to remove the switch; although, it would be nice to know how whenever the time may come.


Thanks and keep the information coming.

 

Kevin is right, it is just a TIGHT fit. I know, as I recently pulled it off to replace the governor for the intermittent wiper position. I tried for what seemed like an hour to get the new governor to plug in, but it would NOT go. So I finally pulled the switch out and it plugged in easily - when I could get it on straight and see the way it goes.

And, the nut on mine is like Kevin shows. I used a pair of long-nosed pliers to reach in and set in the recesses, and then I was able to turn the nut a bit to get it loose.

 

I had the same thoughts..."should I just keep pulling"??? So I did probaby what you are trying to do, removed the entire switch as I thought for sure I was going to break something.

When I got the switch down, I then realized it was just a tight fit. It still was easier to get off once the switch was just dangling from the wires, was able to get ahold of the connector better. But you don't have to...just get as good a grip as you can and rock it back and forth and it will come off.

 

I don't remember exactly but you might be able to stick a flat-blade screwdriver in there and twist it to help get the inner connector out.

I realize this doesn't make any sense on its own, but it might if you were looking at a switch + connector combo....

 

I was also afraid of breaking something.

I just did go out there, poke my hand up in there, wiggle a bit while pulling, and it came right loose --- yippeee!!!!


They sure were stingy with the wire lengths, though; I can accomplish my task, but just barely.


Also, I was very surprised to see how wimpy the factory wires are.

That BLACK/GREEN-SPECKLED KEY-ON=HOT wire can't be any more than 18-AWG; I was expecting 10-AWG, or at least 12-AWG.


The reason for all of this is I am systematically eliminating the entire factory key-switch system in favor of a much bigger/better solenoid-controlled system of my own making.


Many thanks for quickly answering my questions and getting me out of the woods on this situation.

Now, progress can proceed un-impeded ---- until the next snag.

 

very good....better to ask the question then break it right? Now on your next connector you have issues with you'll think "just pull it apart" and you will break it!!! Because you know it won't be the same

I'm doing the same thing on my Nova I'm rebuilding. I'm eliminating the key all together and will have relays, switches and buttons to replace it all. Will be built into the customer center console I'm making for it.

I'm contemplating using one of those aftermarket credit card type ignition switches. Once you put it in, it activates a relay to energize the ignition...or whatever you want it to activate. I will probably just put it in line with the neutral safety switch, that way it, and the switch have to be made up to turn the engine over.

Glad you got past this point and glad we coule help

 

10 or 12 AWG?? I don't think the alternator output is even a 10 ga wire....that's a pretty beefy wire dude!!!

The fusable link is only a 14ga on the output of the alternator so I think an 18 ga for that little wiper motor is plenty

 

My reference point for wiring is that a 14 ga wire is good for 15 amps. BUT, that comes from housing code where the runs are quite long so the voltage drop, and therefore the heating, is exaggerated over that in a vehicle. So, I'm frequently surprised by how small automotive wiring is - and that it works as well as it does.

But, the auto manufacturers have to balance efficiency/heating with weight and cost. They don't get rated on how many CFM the fan blows so a bit of voltage loss, and its associated heating, is acceptable if it reduces the overall weight of the vehicle as well as the cost.

Having said that, I've seen them go way too far. We had an Audi 100LS back in the 70's which was said by Consumer Reports to have electrical problems. However, we really liked the car when we drove it so bought it - and sure enough had electrical problems. The wiring had been designed with the battery under the rear seat and a #10 wire run to the fuse block under the dash. Worked fine until, as the years went by, they added an electric cooling fan, A/C, electric windows, and several other power-hungry accessories that required them to add a small fuse panel on the side of the original. But, they didn't change out the wire from the battery. We started blowing fuses and discovered that the last inch of the red wire was black and the copper annealed to the point it wouldn't allow a good connection, thereby causing the whole fuse block to get hot to the point that the fuse connectors lost their spring tension and, subsequently, their connectivity. I pulled the wire through a bit, cut the end off to get to good copper, and things were fine for a while. We finally sold it with NO extra wire left in that run and fuses blowing again - but the new owner was told about the problem. And, we've never since bought a vehicle that CR said not to buy, and we never had the inherent problems that little Audi had.