I've done a search in the Tech Folder and in the Excursion section but can't find the answer.

Do I need a special tool (twist and push) to reset the caliper pistons on either a 2000 V10 4x4 or a 2004 6.0 4x4.

I learned how to do brakes on my son's Jetta (so now I'm feeling brave) and it required that tool for the rear brakes. Also, my neighbor across the street said that tool was required for his late model Mustang's rear calipers.

Just wondering if I need to rent the tool again while I'm out getting rotors and pads.

Thanks!

 

No special tools needed. To reset or push the caliper back in I just use a large adjustable wrench (Channel Locks) or a large C clamp. Super Duty's are easy to do... just much bigger then what you have experienced. Make sure you grease the slide pin. See if these videos help.

Ford (2000 yr) Excursion 7.3 Turbo Desiel (How to replace front brake pads and rotor).PT 3/3 - YouTube http://youtu.be/ohoKKjX4Mbg

 

There is no "setting". All calipers are pretty much the same, I usually just pry them in with a big screwdriver and maybe let some fluid out so they will stay there or use a C clamp.

 

Never crack the bleeder when you are just trying to push the piston back in. First thing you should do is take the lid off of your brake fluid reservoir though. That allows the fluid to be pushed back way more easily. I just use a 6" C clamp. Works for everything from class 6/7 hydraulic disc brakes all the way down to class 1 Rangers and such.

 

TrdLtly, thanks! The videos are great. One I had seen, one I hadn't. The second one you linked to showed the back brakes; I hadn't been able to find a video of the backs specifically. What did we do before YouTube?

And you're right, they are a LOT bigger than Jetta brakes. The videos don't do them justice. Just getting the wheels/tires on and off is a chore.

All I did today was pull the wheels to see how the pads/rotors were. I was expecting to have to replace them and/or the rotors, but they all seem fine. No vibrations or noises yet.

Really, I just wanted to mess with my truck and was kinda hoping I would need to do the brakes. There, I said it!

 

Why? So you can push the crusty fluid from the piston bore back into the line instead of out the bleeder?

 

I've been cracking bleeders for 50 years and I often just put a crescent wrench handle between the shoes and twist, also the resevoir caps are vented and it's not like they are going to restrict the flow anyway.

 

Different folks different strokes. I've changed brakes on countless vehicles, and never crack the bleeder unless I'm bleeding the brakes. Main reason is so I don't have to bleed them after I'm done changing the pads/rotors. When you do it for a living, extra steps cost you money.
Again, one of those things that makes pushing the pistons in go from a 3 minute process to a 1 minute process.

I just went out and looked at the calipers on my Ex, and while they are big by car standards, they seem small to me.

 

Agreed! I've always cracked the bleeder. But I also believe that if you're changing pads you should be changing the fluid, too.

 

Well, I did it today. Wow, what a job. Everything about this truck is HEAVY!

Thanks all for the links to videos and the tech folder. It makes it so much easier if you can watch it done before trying it yourself.

The only issue I had was getting the rear rotors off since they were rusted on. Rubber mallet and hammer didn't help, but a lot of Liquid Wrench and this video did the trick:

Remove Rusted Brake Rotors ( Easy for any car or truck ) - YouTube

I HIGHLY recommend this technique for braking free stuck rotors.

Thanks again!