Ive never had a fan clutch work that I havent replaced.

nice quote hairy

 

I replace the fan clutch but it doesn't seem to come on, just like my old one. I replaced it afyer bombing up a mountain hill to purposely get my engine temp light to come on. I never heard the fan. I stopped once the light came on, popped the hood, revved the motor and didnt notice the fan acting/sounding any different than when at lower temps.

So I replaced it, drove up the same mountain hill and overheated in the EXACT same place (although ambient temps were 10-20 degrees higher). This leads me to believe that both the old and new fan clutch work just the same. I've heard that some new ones "don't work"... Is this true? Is it really supposed to sound Lola an airplane taking off? Should i return it for a new one?

Also, the instructions for the fan clutch say that the water pump can affect the fan clutch and vice versa. I'm replacing my water pump soon, so we'll see if its damaged, and if rtplacing it helps.

On another note, I get a puff of smoke out the tailpipe when i let off the pedal. What's that mean?

Thanks everyone for your knowledge.

 

Turn the fan with your hand when it is cold is it stiff? Get the engine warmed up (hot), make sure you turn the truck off or it will chop off your hand, turn the fan is it easy to turn? If it doesnt have a good bit of resistance when it is cold it is bad. It should be prety apparent if it is stiff or not.

 

It sounds kind of like a airplane prop/ jet engine spooling up when it kicks on you will know the sound when you hear it.

 

What a Fully Locked in Fan Clutch Should Sound Like - YouTube

 

Thanks John I was just about to post that video you beat me to it. yup that is the sound

 

Well, I made it from CO to CA. Several breakdowns (upper radiator hose broke - not related to overheating, and #2 injection line broke due to vibration of not having the clamps on the injection hose - my fault for not knowing).

Overheating continued - even on flat ground, but in 95 degree weather. Not good. I had to pull over every half an hour for 15 mins in the peak of the day.

Good news: I learned how to use my OD off button and how to keep my foot lighter on the pedal to help me with hills (to maintain speed, smoke less, keep eng and trans temps down, etc). There is definitely a point on the gas pedal that will not give you more power, only more smoke when you push harder. Halfway down abouts.

I noticed that turning the OD off wont raise trans temps, but downshifting (at least I think that's what's happening when I put on my hazards) drives my trans temps way up. Good to know.

I don't have an external trans cooler, but am considering it now. I am a full time nomad, so I think for the time being that I will try to stay away from hot weather and not push it too much in the mountains.

Bad News: I think I was too "OD off" button happy. Halfway through the trip the OD would turn off, but not back on, unless I turned the bus off. Then, towards the end of the trip the OD wouldn't even turn off. The light stopped working a couple years ago. Do you think it's just a faulty button?

You all have been super helpful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

 

you should fix the light asap.then you'll know if it's flashing.
turning your hazards on,isn't downshifting.it's unlocking your converter (old school c6 mode.) so the converter is generating more heat.
your unsure of the difference between lockup and OD gear.
lockup occurs around 35mph after the 3rd gear shift.it's not a shift,rather a direct clutch engagement like a manual trans.
OD is your 4th and final gear.unaltered by the hazard lights.

if you feel no increase in performance after half throttle,the fuel screw desperately needs to be turned down.probably by 2 flats.
you'll know,because you should have power all the way to the floor with no smoke out the pipe on n/a when it's correct.
if you keep driving the engine and trans in their current state,they won't live as long.
glad ya made it!

 

Pyrometer and boost gauge on CL. ISSPro Pyrometer (EGT) and 40 psi Boost Gauge with Pod

EGT probe in manifold.

Ideal location would be at cylinder 8, but that is the only cylinder that does not have flat cast in. I drilled and tapped there for strength.
You will have to pull manifold to do it here. You could weld a nut on crossover pipe just below manifold for ease. ISSPRO sells the nut.

Also CG here has a Banks 3" turbo exhaust for $100.
Banks turbo back 3" exhaust F250 f350 6.9 7.3

 

Hey folks. I just wanted to follow up (I know, it's been a year and a half).

I put a new radiator in and it made dramatic difference in my over-heating issues. Not only do I not overheat at all anymore, but my fan clutch now kicks on when it gets hot. I think because the old radiator had enough gunk clogging the vertical cooling tubes, not only was it not cooling enough, but the heat wasn't traveling down the tubes effectively and since the fan clutch is heat activated, it wasn't turning on.

I still smoke a bit in higher elevations, but I think that's just part of having this engine and weight. I readjusted the FIPL sensor after coming back to CA. I think when I replaced my IP 5 years ago, I adjusted the FIPL a little off (I think it was in high idle or something when I did it), which made it upshift too early, leaving me with less power and more smoke.

I also added a tranny cooler, which has been great. But I've also given her some rough days of mountain climbing and high temps. Just changed out the tranny filter, fluid, and added a new pan (with drain plug).

I don't smoke too much on start-up anymore. I cleaned up and tightened all the fuel lines/injector caps, etc on the motor, and replaced all the glow plugs with Motorcraft ones. She starts pretty nicely now.

Thanks everyone for all the input!

 

sweet welcome back and glad your livin it up!!!! love my idi daily driver for the past 5 years!!! post a pic of your bus!!!

 

when you tap the brake the E4OD will unlock the TQ. if the rig doesn't down shift, or un lock under heavy loads or hills you may want to check TPS voltage at the ip, should be 1.1-1.2 volts at idle position. near 4.5 at full throttle. this sets the shift points of the tranny, engine is governed so you can't over rev up hills, are you certain the air cleaner is clean, and cold air supply tube is not full of pack rat nest's