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Turbo surge

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Old May 24, 2012 | 01:26 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
Typically if the EBPV is plugged in and working as it should be, when you start the truck it will cycle closed and then open again. You will hear the sound of the exhaust change and then go back to normal. When it closes you can hear it kind of whoosh like there is air under pressure escaping. If you have the time and want to check it the easiest way to be sure where it is at is to disconnect the downpipe and then look in the turbo outlet. You will see the butterfly valve there in the outlet. You can try to operate it by hand as well, but it is difficult to reach or see the linkage since it is under the turbo outlet and with the firewall and cowl in the way you can't really get back there to see it unless you use a mirror. There is a rod that actuates the butterfly valve and I want to say that the rod is extended toward the passenger side of the truck when the valve is open, and then pulls back into the turbo pedestal to close the valve. I can't remember for sure which way it mopves to close the valve though so your best bet is to see if it will move freely (there should be spring pressure to hold it open) or to pull the DP and take a look see.

Here are some pictures for reference:




I will do this tomorrow night and see what I can do with a mirror. Is it wrong to lock the valve in the open position? Is this not whare I would want it to be to generate free boost? Is this dangerous to do.

Or do I want the arm to sit freely? Considering the sensor is disconnected does it matter?

Is this in any way harmful to the motor?
Originally Posted by Talyn
I've gotten my stock charger to surge, and let me tell you. It is hard.

Very very very hard. I had a sensor issue at the time, so it was causing some weird stuff to happen.

Gqqsb is a 450-500 hp turbo.
She's an idiot.

Actually, it looked more like she was just trying to sell you expensive turbo's which wouldn't fix your problem.
Yeah, the 38r is good too, but you'd have to buy so much stuff to get any of those turbo's to work.

The stock charger on our trucks is amazing.

Lots of good info in this thread to help you out.

Make sure that air filter is clean and check the other stuff these guys are suggesting.
Yeah thats is what I got from her responses... I respect vendors untill they offer help solely on a sales pitch.... Thought it was funny when I mention a turbo she did not stock she quite replying.... However I was unaware about surge...

I am not interested in doing a turbo by any means.

I have read quite a few threads about it being common in the SD's but its difficult to get the OBS trucks to do so.

Thanks for the info.... My filter is not even a month old...
Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
It sounds like once you get up to a certain boost pressure, you may have a good sized boost leak or drive pressure leak. Build yourself a boost leak detector or buy one, hook up the air compressor, and spray down the connections with soapy water to find any leaks. Also, check the uppipes for signs of an exhaust leak(IE soot on pipes or firewall).
When you boost leak checking I can use the intake hose and a PVC cap with a fitting... correct? To make a cheap style tester...

I mentioned a bit earlier I'm not too worried about up pipes, we did the clutch 2 months ago and when under there they looked like they were in pretty good shape. My mechanic said there was no reason to replace them yet. Saw very very minor soot worm trails at the dougnuts but nothing that hinted towards a serious leak.

However I will double check once again
 
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Old May 24, 2012 | 02:48 PM
  #32  
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There is nothing wrong with fastening the valve in the open position. There are some guys who just unplug the wiring connector then use a wire coat hanger or something to physically tie the valve in the open position. You can do so by fastening to the arm on the bottom of the valve.
 
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Old May 24, 2012 | 03:20 PM
  #33  
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Good to know I will fasten that open this evening.... I'll try to figure out what is considered to be the open position. Hopefully something comes from it.

Thanks
 
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Old May 24, 2012 | 03:44 PM
  #34  
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You want that flow.
Flow flow flow!

Let it flow let it flow let it flow.

The soot out side is frightful.
But the turbo sings delightful......

oh my.

I need some whiskey.
 
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Old May 24, 2012 | 04:36 PM
  #35  
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yup..bottle of jack and a 6 pack of imperial on the way home are in order to start this weekend right tonight... 4 day work weeks do have their benefits
 
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Old May 24, 2012 | 07:02 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by nossliw
When you boost leak checking I can use the intake hose and a PVC cap with a fitting... correct? To make a cheap style tester...

I mentioned a bit earlier I'm not too worried about up pipes, we did the clutch 2 months ago and when under there they looked like they were in pretty good shape. My mechanic said there was no reason to replace them yet. Saw very very minor soot worm trails at the dougnuts but nothing that hinted towards a serious leak.

However I will double check once again
Yeah, you can use a piece of PVC pipe and a cap with a valve stem in the end and pressurize it with your air compressor. I can't get the IMG codes to my pics to put the pics in this thread, but here is a link to my boost leak detector. I need to build another one soon, but this one worked for me.

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - strokin'_tatsch's Album: Boost Leak Detector
 
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Old May 29, 2012 | 05:55 PM
  #37  
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well after a boost leak test and the EBPV checking out open I am at a loss of what it could be. I really can not figure out what the exact reasoning may be besides the Up pipes leaking more than I suspect or visually can inspect for, or the tuning is just off. The wifes car just **** out its a/c compressor so that is going to put a damper on the boost guage and second pyro fund...

I will keep you all updated and hope to know more here down the road....
 
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Old May 30, 2012 | 07:19 AM
  #38  
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I'm not sure if anyone mentioned it, but send Jody and email and give him a brief explanation of whats going on.

I re-read your PSN post and with my tunes from a different vendor, I have always had that issue.
It's just what the truck is capable of.

With stock injectors 90ish CC fuel, you cannot really do a whole lot though and when the tunes, which are probably stage 1 tunes, call for more fuel, your truck falls flat on its face.

Depending on where your located at, another member might be able to swing over and hook up their scangauge so you can get some more info on things like boost and codes.
That way you can check PSI and DC while out for a drive too and see if its an Hpop issue.


Turbo surge, no idea how that got brought up, is very distinct hickup while driving.
Surge is a funny way to explain it because its the exact opposite of what surge implies.
 
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Old May 30, 2012 | 09:18 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Talyn
I'm not sure if anyone mentioned it, but send Jody and email and give him a brief explanation of whats going on.

I re-read your PSN post and with my tunes from a different vendor, I have always had that issue.
It's just what the truck is capable of.

With stock injectors 90ish CC fuel, you cannot really do a whole lot though and when the tunes, which are probably stage 1 tunes, call for more fuel, your truck falls flat on its face.

Depending on where your located at, another member might be able to swing over and hook up their scangauge so you can get some more info on things like boost and codes.
That way you can check PSI and DC while out for a drive too and see if its an Hpop issue.


Turbo surge, no idea how that got brought up, is very distinct hickup while driving.
Surge is a funny way to explain it because its the exact opposite of what surge implies.
Thanks for the advice.... Like I mentioned stage 1's won't be happening till the fall, but if I have to drive around in a stock tune it does not bother me. Just pisses me off that the chip has been a hassel more than help with towing. Regarding the surge...yeah I think that woman was full of chit, not knowing what I was looking for, I took her word but after listening to a few videos what I am ex-eriencing is nothing like that. Its not a surge issue... more a boost or tuning issue I'm guessing.

The plus side is that is has taught me a ton about what to look for and how it affects the truck.


If anyone knows someone up here in COLORADO in the greater Denver area or Castle Rock where I live, it sure would be nice if they wanted to go for a ride with a scan gauge

On a side note I have had a slow passenger side axle seal leak on the front...well this past weekends camping/4wd trip it now left a puddle the size of my foot in the driveway last night...so this is the next fix for the weekend.... glad I have the weekend to myself and the wife is at work....
 
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Old May 30, 2012 | 10:15 AM
  #40  
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[QUOTE=nossliw;11892762]Thanks for the advice.... Like I mentioned stage 1's won't be happening till the fall, but if I have to drive around in a stock tune it does not bother me. Just pisses me off that the chip has been a hassel more than help with towing. Regarding the surge...yeah I think that woman was full of chit, not knowing what I was looking for, I took her word but after listening to a few videos what I am ex-eriencing is nothing like that. Its not a surge issue... more a boost or tuning issue I'm guessing./QUOTE]

It's always possible you have some other issues going on that the tuning is bringing out.
Bad ICP sensor, Bad Map sensor, yada yada.
Weak Hpop, who knows.

The benefit you WILL gain from the tuning is a more efficient stock tune that will make best use of the injectors and programming upgrades.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 07:52 AM
  #41  
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Well thought I would share this...the truck got close to fifty more miles on this last tank when I ran it only ont the stock tuning for 310 miles unloaded, did the same trip in the economy setting and I got 260 on 15 gallons...same trip, same speed, no headwinds, almost identicle conditions..... Yeah This thing is getting sent back to Jody when the injectors are changed out. The stock tune performs better in all aspects than any of the other tunes besides it runs a bit hotter and the other tunes have a seat of the pants more power feeling when the truck is unloaded.....

Disappointed..
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 08:23 AM
  #42  
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I would get a hold of Jody now. I would imagine that he will make every effort to make it right for you. Something is not right with that situation.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 11:09 AM
  #43  
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Yeah I'm not by any means knocking on him at all. Like mentioned earlier it might be something the tuning brought out. I just figured I'll put new injectors and a new pump in there after redoing the ic / boots and piping and there won't really be much room to be having issues on. I have checked darn near everything on it and am somewhat at a lost. Figured live tuning would be the way to go anyways and I'm not sure if I can find some one who can reborn his chip here in Denver. I'd think altitude difference has a lot to do with it. Not sure how much but I'd think the parameters would vary quite a bit on a how a truck from see level behaves vs one running 6k-11k feet.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 12:17 PM
  #44  
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I doubt you're going to find anyone who will be able to burn tunes to that style chip. DP uses a different style chip than the majority of other tuners so their stuff is somewhat proprietary.

I would still contact Jody and inquire as to your issue with him. There shouldn't be a huge difference in the way the truck runs at altitude since the PCM should be able to account for that. Yes, if you're pulling hard I would get that you could see higher EGT's due to the difference in air density, but I think there is something else going on with your setup. Just call Jody and talk it over with him. I would be really surprised if he doesn't do everything he can to make it right.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 02:34 PM
  #45  
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Will do thanks for the advice.
 
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