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Calibration tube can only do so much.
You'll be flowing so little over the maf (at idle) that it will still need tuning to run right. Especially at idle. 24lb injectors you can get away with a cal tube, 42s are a bit much.
You really should get a custom chip for it anyway. With all the parts combined, you can extract so much more hp. And the a9l is programmed for a car that's at least 1000 lb lighter.
It will be in your best interest to get it Dyno tuned.
Calibration tube can only do so much.
You'll be flowing so little over the maf (at idle) that it will still need tuning to run right. Especially at idle. 24lb injectors you can get away with a cal tube, 42s are a bit much.
You really should get a custom chip for it anyway. With all the parts combined, you can extract so much more hp. And the a9l is programmed for a car that's at least 1000 lb lighter.
It will be in your best interest to get it Dyno tuned.
Sure, makes sense. I agree with you (I'm getting a tune in a couple of weeks), I just know that it's easier, and cheaper, to put in a calibration tube than to get a tune. That is the preference I see here.
So I'll throw in, if you are going to do it, do it right and get a slot style sensor. The idle will be MUCH smoother and so will the acceleration due to the newer technology in the sensor. And if you don't already have injectors, I have heard the Siemens 60 lb injectors are really good. Not because of the size but because of the responsiveness of those injectors and how they are built. I'll need larger injectors (probably 42s) but I'll get the Siemens.
Bad computer then. Also, you absolutely can not put in those 42lb/hr injectors without getting a tuner for your computer.
The 42lbers have been removed and replaced with the stockers for the time being. So I can try and figure out this SEVERE flooding issue. Which could possibly be related somewhat to the bad pcm i have now. Once I replaced my pcm with my buddy's it seem to run fair but still smoking like a freight train. I know I need to get it tuned but I have to get it semi driveable and not flood out fouling plugs first lol
You need to verify 100% that you have all the injector wiring correct and put into the correct pins on the computer connector.
If it's still has black smoke coming out of the tailpipe and the wiring is correct, there is a sensor somewhere not doing its job correctly. If the MAF is known good, I'd start with the ECT sensor.
The 42lbers have been removed and replaced with the stockers for the time being. So I can try and figure out this SEVERE flooding issue. Which could possibly be related somewhat to the bad pcm i have now. Once I replaced my pcm with my buddy's it seem to run fair but still smoking like a freight train. I know I need to get it tuned but I have to get it semi driveable and not flood out fouling plugs first lol
A good tuner will be able to take a vehicle that isn't running and make it hum in a couple of hours if a data logger is attached and working. If you need to tow it to a place, it might be fastest
42lb injectors are way more then needed. They will support 550whp easy. 60s are up into the 700-750 range. These old computers don't have the fine adjustment like a newer eec5 computer. You'll be altering the dwell and saturation times and whatever else they call the adjustments to get idle correct. I liked the Siemens 60s I put in the lightning and cobras I've worked on. They did tune very nicely but it was needed on those vehicles. I really think a set of 30s will be plenty for you but I like the safety of 42s and then you won't need to upgrade later if you decide to do more work.
When you get up into the 350-375 hp range it's always good to get Dyno tuned.
A good tuner will be able to take a vehicle that isn't running and make it hum in a couple of hours if a data logger is attached and working. If you need to tow it to a place, it might be fastest
If only the closest tuner wasnt 4 hours away that'd be beneficial. I'd love to tow it to dynospeed racing where I have all my tuning done but that would break the bank on towing.
If only the closest tuner wasnt 4 hours away that'd be beneficial. I'd love to tow it to dynospeed racing where I have all my tuning done but that would break the bank on towing.
I kind of figured you were going to say you are too far away.
ive been researching either a tweecer RT or quarterhorse tuning software.
I have the tweecer-rt but haven't used it much yet. The guy who is going to tune my truck prfers quarterhorse because of the way it does things to the computer. He said it was easier to configure for data logging and the way it writes and reads is faster than the tweecer. I am not sure these are really reasons to choose one or the other but I've heard more about quarterhose than tweecer. I also noticed on the tweecer web site it doesn't list any major companies as their competition because I don't think they have much of a leg up. I still think I'll be happy with the tweecer after I get the base tune and start making my own adjustments.
..which your engine will peg out without any effort...
bearster18-
you wanna be realllllllllllllllllllllllllly careful here. I was troubleshooting my motor after the SD to MAF conversion and it was running really crappy (not tuned right). Then, ALL OF THE SUDDEN, a reading must have been measured my the sensor and almost caused my engine to blow up. I think what saved it was me getting to the key and turning it off quickly.