Water temp reading too high
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Santa Clara, California
Thanks xlt4wd90. I hope I don't have to cut it that close but if necessary this is a good option. I had my other Aero in -60 F in the Yukon. Worked great. Didn't try the aircon though :-)
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Santa Clara, California
Update on my cooling problem after over-heating problems in Death Valley at 120F while climbing.
Twice I had to stop the van and lift the hood for 10 minutes or so to cool the engine. I had the aircon off, OD off, and was running the heater full blast. Nice effect at 120F :-) Fortunately my Russian passengers are rather tough, even the 10 year old girl.
We hit a lot of 100+ F heat on our 3,200 mile drive and I had to watch the temp gauge closely over several passes in CA, NV, and UT. It was a problem many times but only in Death Valley did I have to stop. We had a fair amount of gear and 4 people but the van wasn't as loaded as I've had my 96 Aero.
I followed xlt4wd90's advice repeated below and had a shop do all of the steps (I hope).
1. defective sticking shut thermostat or not opening fully.
Motorcraft 190d F MOTORCRAFT Part # RT1161(comes with the grooved rubber seal) if you can find (RockAuto internet) one or Stant Premium Stainless steel 195d F if the MC is not avail. in your area. Ford is making MC go away at corporation decision level, why? cost savings.
2. air in cooling system. park with nose at least 2 ft higher than rear.
with rad. cap off, let run. will self burp. make sure the small hose from rad. cap neck opening to overflow bottle is tight on rad. connector. best to put wire tie over hose as a clamp to prevent air pull in when engine cools off.
2. worn out fan clutch.
4. plugged radiator/engine from running tap water. makes lots of scale slime that plugs small passages. use a HD cleaner.
5. old weak rad. cap not holding pressure or torn seal.
6. plugged fins on rad. from bugs and road crud [Rather new radiator and it is clean]
I don't know if the shop I take the van to uses distilled or tap water. I'll try to find that out.
Maybe I'll try another shop or retire the Aero from summer road trips in the desert. Moab in May is cooler for mountain biking anyway.
- Jim
Twice I had to stop the van and lift the hood for 10 minutes or so to cool the engine. I had the aircon off, OD off, and was running the heater full blast. Nice effect at 120F :-) Fortunately my Russian passengers are rather tough, even the 10 year old girl.
We hit a lot of 100+ F heat on our 3,200 mile drive and I had to watch the temp gauge closely over several passes in CA, NV, and UT. It was a problem many times but only in Death Valley did I have to stop. We had a fair amount of gear and 4 people but the van wasn't as loaded as I've had my 96 Aero.
I followed xlt4wd90's advice repeated below and had a shop do all of the steps (I hope).
1. defective sticking shut thermostat or not opening fully.
Motorcraft 190d F MOTORCRAFT Part # RT1161(comes with the grooved rubber seal) if you can find (RockAuto internet) one or Stant Premium Stainless steel 195d F if the MC is not avail. in your area. Ford is making MC go away at corporation decision level, why? cost savings.
2. air in cooling system. park with nose at least 2 ft higher than rear.
with rad. cap off, let run. will self burp. make sure the small hose from rad. cap neck opening to overflow bottle is tight on rad. connector. best to put wire tie over hose as a clamp to prevent air pull in when engine cools off.
2. worn out fan clutch.
4. plugged radiator/engine from running tap water. makes lots of scale slime that plugs small passages. use a HD cleaner.
5. old weak rad. cap not holding pressure or torn seal.
6. plugged fins on rad. from bugs and road crud [Rather new radiator and it is clean]
I don't know if the shop I take the van to uses distilled or tap water. I'll try to find that out.
Maybe I'll try another shop or retire the Aero from summer road trips in the desert. Moab in May is cooler for mountain biking anyway.
- Jim
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