This question is related to the lengthy and long running threads on low speed shudder.

It seems from following those threads, that the problem is confined almost exclusively to models with a two-piece drive shaft; which makes sense, since the pinion angle will always be more severe with a two-piece.

So the question is: Which models have one-piece or two-piece drive shafts? Is there a simple rule-of-thumb -- like crew-cabs are all two piece and everything else is one-piece -- or something like that?

I'm ready to buy a new truck, and like most of you, I'm somewhat amazed that Ford has not dealt with this problem; from an engineering standpoint -- I'd think it would be a simple fix. There's nothing new or complicated about axle wrap. It appears to me that one way to avoid it is to avoid buying a two-piece drive shaft model.

I've owned a lot of Ford trucks; none have had two-piece drive shafts, except for an early SuperDuty (super cab & 8' bed) -- and predictably, the center splined slip yoke gave me some trouble -- although no shudder.

I could go crawl around a Ford dealer for an hour and figure it out, but I know some of you guys already broke the code on this; and if I'm wrong about thinking the two-piece drive shaft models are the problem, please tell me that too. Cheers

 

My Scab is a single piece shaft.

 

my wifes Screw with a 5.5ft box has a one piece shaft.

 

I believe only the longest wheelbase trucks have a two-piece driveshaft. My 09 Screw 6.5' bed has one... and it's already been back once for the slip yoke greasing. I would suspect a two-piece in the 8' bed Scab as well.

 

Well sorry to end the trend but my scab is 2-piece and has been serviced once in the first 20k miles for lubrication. I can feel that it needs to be done again just under 30k miles. The drive shaft feels "loose" right now.


This is what the paperwork said from my first drive shaft service:
From my paper work: cause: erratic trans operation while driving and harsh clunk on stops and takeoff caused by calibration level and driveshaft slip yoke splines. TSB 11-10-15.
Necessary to perform TSB 11-10-15, reprogram PCM/TCM per TSB. Then remove driveshaft, separate two piece shaft to clean and lube splines to stop driveline clunk on take off and stopping.

 

Same model, same year, same engine -- different drive shafts? That seems odd.

I see one is a 4x4 and one is a 2x4; and they may have different beds?

 

I would think that because of the size of the transfer case in the 4x4 everything is close enough to use only a one piece shaft.

Just my two cents.

 

I don't understand why there's a need for any pickup to have a two-piece drive shaft.

I had a Class A Winnebago motor home a few years ago, built on a V10 Ford chassis (F53?). It had a wheelbase over 20' and a one-piece drive shaft worked fine on it. So why does any pickup need a two piece?

 

My 2012 Screw 4X4 with 5.5 foot bed has an aluminum 1 piece shaft.

 

1 piece on my screw 4x4 5.5ft bed

 

2011 XL scab 2 piece drive shaft. Also has the support brg. Has trailer tow and load equalizer with programming installed.

 

I'm almost 99% sure the two-piece shaft is an Scab, 4x2 thing only. That's what I got, but when the dealer replaced mine, they gave me a 2012 Screw, 5.5 box & Ecoboost. That truck had a single shaft. Seems like the slip-bump issue doesn't matter if you have the two-piece or one piece as even my rental Ecoboost with only 3300 miles on it had worse slip-yoke bump than my truck had.

Just an FYI though, I've driven more than 3K miles on my replacement shaft and everything is buttery smooth still.

 

I think that the SCREW with a 6.5' bed comes with a two piece while the 5.5' has a one piece. Not sure what the SCABs have.

 

Well, my 2010 SCrew, with 5.5' bed has a 2 piece setup. Go figure!

 

Ya thats strange. Mine is a 2010 SCrew with 5.5' and it has one piece. I was told all 5.5s have one piece and 6.5s have two. Who knows!