Drive-ability woe's
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Drive-ability woe's
1996 Bronco 351W-Stock. Well maintained 240K miles (60% highway)
Substantial "clunk" sound pulling off in 1st, Shifts from 1st to 2nd harder than I would think is normal ( I have worked on vehicles most of life but I am NOT a qualified mechanic- just darn handy) also rear main leaking fairly well.
* Also- 1/4 turn or so of rotation on drive shaft putting it from park to R or D. No slop in driveshaft U joints are tight.
Thoughts are:
oil from rear main deteriorated tranny mount allowing motor and tranny to shift.
Tranny needs $$$$$$ and love
Transfer needs $$$$$ and love
Ring and Pinion need $$$ or love
HELP---thoughts suggestions- where do I start. If I start changing fluids and it is deeper in the tranny I am still out an extra 100.00 or so right???
Just looking for some qualified advise on a likley culprit to start with.
Substantial "clunk" sound pulling off in 1st, Shifts from 1st to 2nd harder than I would think is normal ( I have worked on vehicles most of life but I am NOT a qualified mechanic- just darn handy) also rear main leaking fairly well.
* Also- 1/4 turn or so of rotation on drive shaft putting it from park to R or D. No slop in driveshaft U joints are tight.
Thoughts are:
oil from rear main deteriorated tranny mount allowing motor and tranny to shift.
Tranny needs $$$$$$ and love
Transfer needs $$$$$ and love
Ring and Pinion need $$$ or love
HELP---thoughts suggestions- where do I start. If I start changing fluids and it is deeper in the tranny I am still out an extra 100.00 or so right???
Just looking for some qualified advise on a likley culprit to start with.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Panama City, Fl
Remove the drive shaft and check the joints. Mine had the normal bad u-joint clunk but no matter how I checked them, I could not feel any play but once removed, they basically fell apart. This will also allow you to check the ring and pinion for slop plus ensure the slip joint on the drive shaft is slipping as designed.
You can see the tanny mount and poke around it to see if it has gotten soft and needs replacement.
I would look at these before anything else major.
You can see the tanny mount and poke around it to see if it has gotten soft and needs replacement.
I would look at these before anything else major.
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Thanks a ton AZ. Should have thought to keep it KISS simple myself.
GREAT site. I will be back soon to start tracking down known issues with the gas gauge not working at all. The wife is not understanding the concept of keeping up with the trip odometer as her gauge and eventually it is going to end badly!!!
GREAT site. I will be back soon to start tracking down known issues with the gas gauge not working at all. The wife is not understanding the concept of keeping up with the trip odometer as her gauge and eventually it is going to end badly!!!
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: louisville
I had the clunk when starting from a stop for years until I read a thread on another forum about Greasing the Slip Yoke. Its an easy fix took about an hour. Remove the D.S. from the output (four 13mm bolts I think) pull the remove the bottom metal clip on the rubber dust boot and slide it out. Use brake cleaner to clean the splines and re grease with some regular synthetic grease then put everything back together. It starts from stop smooth as glass now. Might do a Google search on Greasing Slip Joint or Yoke.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,908
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From: Algona, Washington
So when you bought the bronc sis the PO tell you if the trans has ever been rebuilt? From the sounds of it with the 1.4 turn and such it sounds like the tranny is worn out. My old c-6 did that when i parked on my driveway, but my stuff was so worn out that the clutch or whatever is in the automatic was slipping really bad and was worn about 1/6th of an inch past the normal wear spot. Anyways that could use a rebuilt, if you lived in Washington i know a great shop to go to. As for the driveline, i would follow AZ's advise and at least drop it one side at a time to check the caps. Mine has a small amount of play, more or less due to loose bolts, and i had one cap broken and almost no needle bearings in any of them. Worth a look.
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I will get it all pulled and greased and looked at. Just needed to feel like I wasn't throwing away money. I plan to do the diagnostics until me working on it will cost more money than a shop...
Like Rebuilding a transmission....
Thanks all,
I will keep you posted on the progress
Like Rebuilding a transmission....
Thanks all,
I will keep you posted on the progress
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CLUNK FIXED!!!!...so far. Pulled the drive shaft and greased the slip yoke... Keep it KISS simple right.
Next is manual hubs. I will post another question to get the thoughts on THAT...
Next is manual hubs. I will post another question to get the thoughts on THAT...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,908
Likes: 1
From: Algona, Washington
Congrats, now just keep a close eye on it and make sure it stays greased. But manual hubs on a 96? I will pass that onto the pros of FTE, my 78 only had manual hubs and i am terrified to try to do anything with them besides lock and unlock.
If you can i would look into a few of the links in Encho's sig, i know he did a manual hub swap but i am not sure if it would be similar to yours.
If you can i would look into a few of the links in Encho's sig, i know he did a manual hub swap but i am not sure if it would be similar to yours.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,908
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From: Algona, Washington
Here is a link to his thread. Very detailed. And he has a 93 so i think it should be close.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11243835
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11243835
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