drive shaft play??
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drive shaft play??
there is some rattling other than the norm when i hit low RPMs so i checked the U joints and driveshaft.. there is quite a bit of play in the driveshaft when i twist it by hand. is that normal or should it not move easily at all by hand?? if it isnt normal what can i do to fix that? and what do i look for when checkin the U joints??
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The only play you should have is in the rear end, and very minimal there. Block the wheels, put it in nuetral, and rotate the driveshaft very slowly, try to do this with out moving the tranny yoke or the pinion yoke. If you can't do this, your U-joints are fine. If you can move the driveshaft without moving the tranny or the rear end, you need U-joints.
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so they just need to be replaced? and if the u joints are bad what kind of symptoms will i see or notice while driving. because the driveshaft does have significant play while in neutral without moving the tranny yoke.
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From: Dededo, Guam
Basically that play that you get when you twist it by hand. While driving could be a variety of things. Odd vibrations, clunking noises, squeaks. U-joints aren't expensive to change, somewhat easy to with the right tools.
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From: central valley California
use new u-joints that are heavy duty and have zert fittings so the you can keep the grease fresh.
and do all your joints you may only have one that is bad. but it is a good rule to do then all it would suck to have done just one then the others go out. and becareful when you buy from Autozone or Kargen auto parts they have the tendicy to give you the wrong parts. as that there are four different types of joints that will fit in the drive line.
and do all your joints you may only have one that is bad. but it is a good rule to do then all it would suck to have done just one then the others go out. and becareful when you buy from Autozone or Kargen auto parts they have the tendicy to give you the wrong parts. as that there are four different types of joints that will fit in the drive line.
Last edited by Jack01; Oct 6, 2003 at 10:06 PM.
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From: Dededo, Guam
There are two basic kinds of u-joints, greaseable, and non- greaseable. The greaseable kind are good for the fact that you can keep fresh grease in them. But they are hollow inside for the grease to go in, thus making them weaker. The non-greasable are stronger (better for off road), but you have to take them out every now and then to repack them with grease.
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how much is this gonna put me in the hole?? i think there are 3 U joints. i found 2 at either end of the shaft but dont know where the third one is. also can i replace them myself with the proper tools? is it easy? also which should i get, the kind that are greaseable or the stronger non greaseable ones? i dont realy go off road that much..
how can i check to see if the u-joints are good?
how can i check to see if the u-joints are good?
Last edited by hyperpunkguy[F150]; Oct 7, 2003 at 07:02 PM.
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From: Dededo, Guam
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Considering you are 2 wheel drive, you only have 2 U-joints. One at each end of the driveshaft. U-joints aren't expensive. Between 10-15 dollars per joint. Be glad you don't have 4 wheel drive. I do and I have 7 U-joints to look after. If you don't have one, pick up a chilton's or haynes manual.
Greaseable or non. That choice is up to you. I run the solid ones since I off road. Thats one part i don't want to break when I am on the trail. The greasable ones might be your best bet since you can keep fresh grease in them. They are both strong but the solid ones are just a little stronger. But its your preference on what you want to run with.
Let us know how it goes.
Considering you are 2 wheel drive, you only have 2 U-joints. One at each end of the driveshaft. U-joints aren't expensive. Between 10-15 dollars per joint. Be glad you don't have 4 wheel drive. I do and I have 7 U-joints to look after. If you don't have one, pick up a chilton's or haynes manual. Greaseable or non. That choice is up to you. I run the solid ones since I off road. Thats one part i don't want to break when I am on the trail. The greasable ones might be your best bet since you can keep fresh grease in them. They are both strong but the solid ones are just a little stronger. But its your preference on what you want to run with.
Let us know how it goes.
Last edited by jrs_big_ford_f150; Oct 7, 2003 at 08:49 PM.
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From: Dededo, Guam
You sure can. I assume you never done this before so have patience when you do it. LIke I said earlier get a chiltons or haynes manual and the job will go a lot smoother. I helped a buddy of mine change u-joints on his Blazer. Fairly easy process. The first one will take the longest to change, the second one will take maybe half the time if not less.
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i do it all the time the tools i use are a needle nose pliars to remove the circle clip and a hammer and two sockets one that fits the top of the cap and one big enough that the cap will fit into i just knock the old joint out and knock the new one in. it helps if you put the new joints in the freezer for a couple hours first they go in easier. some auto part stores like napa will press them in pretty cheap if you take the drive shaft in