I bought a 3G out of a 98 Mustang and am going to install tomorrow I hope.

First thing Im going to haul it to AZ and have them test it, I have a 30 day warrenty so I will see what their tester says.

Second, where can I buy a 175 mega fuse, holder, and terminal covers?

Third, I cant find the dang metric top mounting bolt. Anyone know what size it is?

Thanks

 

There I was feeling all pissy about that metric top bolt. Now I have to drag the alternator around town trying to figure out what size bolt I need.

Then it hit me. I rode Hondas for over 30 years, I have more metric hardware in my garage than in all of Japan.

Sure enough, 8mm, I have several.

 

Friend I hope you know what you are talking about, I read your post, and know what a 98 Mustang is and I think AZ would be a state out west, but what in the hello is the rest about and how does it concern a 61-66 Ford truck??

No texting allowed on this here forum.



John

 

Im putting a 175 amp alternator from a 98 Mustang in my 66 F100.

AZ = Autozone.

I got the alternator from the pick-n-n-pull with a 30 day warrenty for $25.

AZ tests alternators for free.

175 amp alternators commonly called 3G run just south of $200 new.

The 3G is internally regulated, so the F100 loses its regulator and a whole bunch of 46 year old wiring.

 

Now I understand your post, I with John, I do not understand text talk to well, I am old. There has been a few post in the past about 1 wire alternator replacement on this forum that may help.

 

I just did this swap 2 Weeks ago. I used a 93 mustang 3G that was 130 amps. A couple of issues I had was triggering the alternator since I wanted to remove all of the regulator wiring to clean up the under hood area. I used a switched 12v lead from the fuse block I installed for all of the other accessories that need 12v switched. Also because of clearance issues with the alternator and my 352 I could not run a ground. This was not a problem because f the alternator mounts metal to metal. I get a steady 14.3v at the battery. Good luck, there is more info in my build thread.

 

Im having a few wiring issues, my 66 has had some surgery in teh past.

I have a solution for the ground, pics later tonight.

 

I didnt really see any text talk in my post. AZ=Autozone. Im not a youngn either, I dont text.

 

Im from AZ, thats A R I Z O N A!

 

NAPA has the megafuse and the holder.
i just grabbed the fuse off the car i pulled the alternator out of, though.

fuse
NAPA AUTO PARTS

fuse holder
NAPA AUTO PARTS

 

Im having a wiring issue.

There are 5 wires coming off my oem regulator:

2 white wires, they will not be used with the 3G.

1 yellow pigtail that was unused with the oem alt.

1 red/grn that will connect to the red/grn on the 3G donor harness.

1 yellow that connected to the alt to solenoid wire on the oem alt. Another yellow then went back to the driver side core support and disappeared into the harness.

Im guessing that yellow wire needs power and I should wire it back to the solenoid.

 

just follow this:
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/atta...tall-early.jpg

the yellow wire coming off the 3G is the "sensing" wire. basically- the alternator will increase/decrease output as needed so that whatever the yellow wire is connected to sees 14v.

 

Rusty, thats not the yellow wire.

I have the entire donor harness, the yellow wire on the 3G is already wired to power.

On my F100 I have a cable that goes from the alt to the hot side of the solenoid. A yellow wire comes out of the regulator and ties into that alt/solenoid cable with a fusable link. A second yellow wire is attached to the alt/solenoid cable with a fusable link and runs back to the driver side core support and goes into the wiring harness.

The alt/solenoid cable with the two yellow wires is an assembley that can not be seperated without cutting out the fusable links.

I think that the yellow wire that goes into the harness at the driver side core support needs power from the hot side of the solenoid.

I bought a Mr Gasket alternator bracket for $14 and cut the end of it off. The alternator now rotates away from the block, plenty of clearence. I was useing a 44 in belt, now 47 1/2 in.







There are butt conectors all over the place on my 66, so who knows. The two yellow wires do not look 46 years old to me.

 

ah- now i think i'm on the same page.

that sounds like the main feed to your in-cab fuse block, so you're right- it needs to be connected to power.

i used a marine buss-bar distribution block, and tied everything together there- the feed from the alt, the main line to the fuse block, etc.

 

I have been studying my wiring diagram. I think that yellow should be powering the horn relay.