Spring to do list!
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 419
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From: Lakefield Ontario
Spring to do list!
I have completed my front brakes the other weekend and they grab hard as the ATE rotors with Monroe pads so far are doing great.
Next week it is new rims, for with I am still waiting on the center caps.
Series 058 - RWD/SUV Truck - Eagle Alloy Wheels
As well I am doing the rear brakes and a full brake system bleed-out and a new starter.
So what break fluid should I put in my 97 E150? I see Dot 4 Ford fluid on the shelf. Is this good stuff, and why is it Ford only????
Next week it is new rims, for with I am still waiting on the center caps.
Series 058 - RWD/SUV Truck - Eagle Alloy Wheels
As well I am doing the rear brakes and a full brake system bleed-out and a new starter.
So what break fluid should I put in my 97 E150? I see Dot 4 Ford fluid on the shelf. Is this good stuff, and why is it Ford only????
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 711
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From: Outside of Memphis, TN
I'd use DOT3. Its what ford designed the system to use. DOT4 absorbs water much quicker. In my offroad buggy I run DOT4, and have to change the fluid every 12 months. I can test the fluid and it will show 3% water in that time. In my support vehicle (an E SuperDuty box van) I can show 1% water in the same timeframe.
DOT4 has a higher boiling point, and if you change the fluid yearly would probably hold up better under extreme heat conditions such as racing, downhill decents, etc. If you are like, say, 3/4s of the vehicles on the road, you should probably use DOT3 for its maintenance interval.
DOT4 has a higher boiling point, and if you change the fluid yearly would probably hold up better under extreme heat conditions such as racing, downhill decents, etc. If you are like, say, 3/4s of the vehicles on the road, you should probably use DOT3 for its maintenance interval.
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Joined: Feb 2007
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Have often read that DOT4 brake fluid absorbs water more slowly than DOT3, extending its service life. Water absorption doesn't reduce DOT4's higher boiling points to the lower temps seen in DOT3.
If I was doing front brakes & "the rear brakes and a full brake system bleed-out" the 1st thing I'd do would be to draw all the old fluid out of MC & fill w/fresh DOT4.
The gov't specs & companies that make brake fluid claim DOT4 is superior to DOT3. Castrol, among others, recommends DOT4 for "ford designed" vehicles. Castrol's recommendation is not "Ford only".
Castrol USA - Brake Fluid
IMHO DOT4 is superior & well worth the modest cost.
The gov't specs & companies that make brake fluid claim DOT4 is superior to DOT3. Castrol, among others, recommends DOT4 for "ford designed" vehicles. Castrol's recommendation is not "Ford only".
Castrol USA - Brake Fluid
IMHO DOT4 is superior & well worth the modest cost.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
PST I'll be interested in following your experience with those rotors and pads----seem to be an interesting combination. I like the idea of those grooves, assume its to channel water away---good idea. Their longevity as compared to the more standard type, whether they warp under hard braking is something to watch.
Love those new wheels---gonna be a bit tough to keep 'em looking as bright and shiny as the catalog photos show though!
I've toyed with the idea of finding a gently used set of the factory allows but shudder to think of the constant cleaning they typically need to stay great looking.
As far as the fluid I'd second 95E150's suggestion and go with Ford's original recommendation to your vehicle's years, DOT 3 in your case.
Keep us up to date on those rotors and pads!
Love those new wheels---gonna be a bit tough to keep 'em looking as bright and shiny as the catalog photos show though!
I've toyed with the idea of finding a gently used set of the factory allows but shudder to think of the constant cleaning they typically need to stay great looking.As far as the fluid I'd second 95E150's suggestion and go with Ford's original recommendation to your vehicle's years, DOT 3 in your case.
Keep us up to date on those rotors and pads!
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lakefield Ontario
I am currently installing line lock and upgrading to stainless steel braided hoses on my Mustang this weekend. Once done I am doing the rears on my E and will take pics of the fronts as I should have 1000 miles on by then.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 711
Likes: 2
From: Outside of Memphis, TN
PST I'll be interested in following your experience with those rotors and pads----seem to be an interesting combination. I like the idea of those grooves, assume its to channel water away---good idea. Their longevity as compared to the more standard type, whether they warp under hard braking is something to watch.
Love those new wheels---gonna be a bit tough to keep 'em looking as bright and shiny as the catalog photos show though! I've toyed with the idea of finding a gently used set of the factory allows but shudder to think of the constant cleaning they typically need to stay great looking.
As far as the fluid I'd second 95E150's suggestion and go with Ford's original recommendation to your vehicle's years, DOT 3 in your case.
Keep us up to date on those rotors and pads!
Love those new wheels---gonna be a bit tough to keep 'em looking as bright and shiny as the catalog photos show though!
I've toyed with the idea of finding a gently used set of the factory allows but shudder to think of the constant cleaning they typically need to stay great looking.As far as the fluid I'd second 95E150's suggestion and go with Ford's original recommendation to your vehicle's years, DOT 3 in your case.
Keep us up to date on those rotors and pads!
The machine finish on those pictured rotors seems to be awfully smooth. I usually expect to see crosshatching from a grindstone truing the rotor as the final production step (usually even after paint/epoxy...)
I would bed those rotors, particularly if you used very heavy duty pads. Get the rotors hot, until you get a light brake smell, with repeating braking. Then drive without touching the brakes (i use a highway) for a few miles to let the brakes cool. When done, the rotors should have a light grey-ish tinge to them. That's transferred material, meaning those super ultra heavy duty pads can start to do their job. More info from a very respect brake specialist here: Instructions for bedding in your brakes
Heavy duty pads don't brake too well unless they are warm. Hawk actually recommends that their superduty pads, for example, not be used unless you are very near your GCWR all the time.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lakefield Ontario
The rotors got their first test today after a major panic stop after being distracted by a very nice boat and not noticing a car stopped ahead of me for no real reason.
All worked really well. Stopped with space to spare. Peeled wife off of dash.
All worked really well. Stopped with space to spare. Peeled wife off of dash.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 419
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From: Lakefield Ontario
I am a little late on posting but here is the reason for replacing my rims, cracked! Not sure how but suspect driving into a cabin on very cold winter day.
Here are the new Eagle rims mounted!
Only thing left to do is rear brakes and interior clean-up and back to great condition again.
Here are the new Eagle rims mounted!
Only thing left to do is rear brakes and interior clean-up and back to great condition again.
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