hey guys, just a quick over view of my truck. 06 250 150k miles. i got the truck and put a act programer with their stock tunes on there. noticed some skipping at high rpm's. also in the morning when engine is cold it will shake real bad when it goes into overdrive. i can floor it and shaking goes away. at first when i got the truck no smoke at all, no white or black smoke. and one day i got in to drive and it smoked some white smoke so i removed the programer and the smoke was still there. it would smoke white and black when taking off after being stopped or at idle. this went on for a week or so and i was told by the ford dealership that my FICM was bad, so before i installed the new one i checked it myself and have 48v hot, 48v cold, 48v, with ignition on, 48v with the truck running. now i have a 500$ FICM that i don't think i need. also had someone put my truck on a snap on computer and it was showing that 3 of the 4 injectors on the passenger side were weak at times. talked with ford dealership and they assured me my FICM was bad but I've yet to see these 30v everyone talks about. so while i had my meter out i checked battery voltage and while truck is off it is anywhere from 12-12.5v which i think is low. while truck is running i can't get more then 12.4-13.0v which i know is low. will someone please tell me what i have going on here. and maybe what needs to be replaced. if you need any info on the truck PLEASE ask and help is greatly appreciated.

also i do get random egr codes. p0401, p0404, p0405. I've cleaned the valve several times and no coolant in the valve. i will delete the egr as soon as i find out the other problems,

 

Moved to the 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel forum.

 

Thanks, I'm new sorry about that.

 

No problem.

I moved your thread here to try to get you the best help since it's engine specific to the 6.0.

 

THANKS! hopefully i can gets help before the ford place bends me over!!!

 

Sounds like your egr valve needs replaced. Sometimes they are done for and cleaning won't do anything for you.

 

yes I'm def deleting that but i need to fig out this ficm/injector/alt/battery issue first. any thoughts??

 

have you had the batteries load tested?

 

Gettin the tuner off was a good first step. If your coolant level isn't dropping, and the EGR valve is dry, the white smoke is likely unburnt fuel. A bad injector or FICM could cause that. Have you smelled the smoke? If it's fuel you can tell pretty easy. The ficm has two sides some call each side a "half shell". The most common failure on the FICM is low voltage coming out of the power side, but it can also fail on the brain side. If you got a NEW FICM for $500 bucks, you did good, but it will need to be programmed before it will run. PHP, ficmrepair.com, and the dealer are the only places I know to get that done. If it's a used one, it should crank and run. You may get a code for software incompatibility but you could check for smoke using the second FICM. I think it's likely one or more injectors. To try and verify, pull the fuel pump fuse and the fuel filter (top one) and watch for bubbles in the fuel at the bottom of the filter housing. If the injector is leaking, air from the cylinder will go backward throught the line and make bubbles. There is also a balloon test that will tell you which side is the problem. Lots more info in the Tech folder here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html

Good luck and welcome to FTE!

 

I have gotten the injectors checked and i am possible have problems with 3 on the passenger side of the motor. and i will change the 4 on that side. but i don't want to put this new FICM in if mine isn't bad. I've got 48v but the ford place says there is a way to "load" test it and I've tested it every way i know how. and suggestions there? and no i haven't load tested my batts. i will do that tomorrow. also i am going to check my FICM voltage tomorrow morning bc it needs to be "cold" high tonight is 68 here so i doubt thats cold but oh well. and yes the smoke smells just like fuel and no moisture in the egr. but i can use the $ for the fICM to get injectors if i can prove to myself the FICM is good if not i will need to install this one but i haven't seen any indication that its bad.

 

I see a Few things Here that are a Concern

1. Just cuz FICM has 48volts DONT mean its good only the Power Half of the FICM is GOOD

2. If the FICM is BAD or in ANY QUESTION it MUST Be Repaired FIRST before you can Diagnose Any Injectors

3.A BAD FICM maybe the reason Injectors look weak

4. Bad Batterys and or Alternator will KILL FICM and possibly injectors to depending on severity

5. It would be cheaper and Better to Send your FICM to ED vs the New OEM Part
As Far as I know new ficm from Ford still Have issues that may pop up with questionable soilder Joints ect.....

Sending FICM to ED he will address all FICM Weakness and will be Better than New


Now If you Decide to Keep the New FICM Put it in the truck and it Should start it will POP a CEL/Wrench Light But should start IF thats whats wrong and then you will have to go to FORD to have FICM programmed.

If you just send to ED you wont have to worrey about Programming like you would if you used the New One

 

Ok I'm with u on the fact that bad batts could have caused most if not all of my problems. If I'm checking and getting 48v and y'all say that's the power half.... Is there any way for me to check the other half? And as far as my truck being dead in the water after the new FICM is installed or the wrench light that's not an issue. I can fix that. So my question now is

1) is there a way to check other half of FICM
2) if not should I put the new one on even if I have 48v on current one


Thanks for the advice guys!

 

I missed these DTC you Posted My BAD


<TABLE style="WIDTH: 681pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=908><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 77pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 3730" width=102><COL style="WIDTH: 86pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 4205" width=115><COL style="WIDTH: 237pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 11556" width=316><COL style="WIDTH: 281pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 13714" width=375><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 25.5pt" height=34><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 77pt; HEIGHT: 25.5pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl66 height=34 width=102>P0401</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 86pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl66 width=115>EGR</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 237pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl65 width=316>Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 281pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl65 width=375>EGR valve, EGR position sensor bias, EP sensor bias</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 681pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=908><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 77pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 3730" width=102><COL style="WIDTH: 86pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 4205" width=115><COL style="WIDTH: 237pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 11556" width=316><COL style="WIDTH: 281pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 13714" width=375><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 25.5pt" height=34><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 77pt; HEIGHT: 25.5pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl66 height=34 width=102>P0404</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 86pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl66 width=115>EGR</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 237pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl65 width=316>Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit Range/Performance</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 281pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl65 width=375>EGR sensor or valve, EGR position circuit
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 77pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: black; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl66 height=17 width=102>P0405</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 86pt; BORDER-TOP: black; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl66 width=115>EGR</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 237pt; BORDER-TOP: black; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl65 width=316>Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 281pt; BORDER-TOP: black; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl65 width=375>Open circuit, short to ground, EGR position sensor</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


IMO you need to address these DTC/Codes FIRST and then Move onto something eles

And with ALL these DTC EGR Valve Replacement will be nessacery IMO

Also the Alternator starting to Look Weak output Volts
My alternator puts out 14.0-14.3volt after Glow Plug shut down then when done charging alternator stay at 13.2-13.8volts.

Has battery light been coming on???/

If it was me Id address the Charging system have it all checked out and then deal with these EGR DTC/Codes. see what happens and go from there

on thing you could try with the egr valve is unplug it while truck is off and then start it back up and see if Drivability concern is present or NOT and you might want to pull egr valve first make shure its SHUT and not a Chunk of Carbon holding the Valve open then unplug it and test drive but must be unplugged with the truck OFF

See what happens with this and go from there I jumped the Gun slightly in previos post cuz you have Codes for SHURE so those Must be addressed First

 

Just my two cents, replaced my EGR the day I bought the truck because the guy I bought it from said it may need cleaning. About a year later had the starting, running issues, smoke/ran like crap cold/etc. Replaced the FICM with a used one. A month later same crappy issues, sent the FICM in to be rebuilt and wow what a difference. Still running great to this day. I know the FICM can be tested in every direction and seems to be OK, but on these trucks it seems like 90% of the time the FICM is to blame and then you start losing Injectors. Just my opinion but spend the money on a rebuilt, (not new from Ford) FICM and then go from there. BTW dont pay more then about $200 total for a rebuild on the FICM.

 

The FICM I have is rebuilt, and the codes that I listed were only once except the p0401. I can reset it and it might stay off for a day or so. I've cleaned the valve and still runs like dodo. I'm going to adress this voltage issue soon bc putting a new FICM on with bad voltage is only going to kill it a well.