get creative here people
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 14,379
Likes: 609
From: evansville in
Have you checked any heavy truck supply places.we have auto wheel and rim here.they are about as knolegble about that type of stuff as i have seen.there may be an alternative for new parts incase.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,417
Likes: 4
From: Braham MN
You could prolly grind the head of the factory stud off from the back, what we see in pic 2. Hammer them out of the drum from the back, leaving you with the spacer and studs out both sides, then hopefully unscrew the factory studs from the spacer. I am guessing there is a shoulder on the spacer studs that hold the spacer on. With the factory stud off you could prolly hammer the spacer studs out of the spacer from the back.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Southern AZ
When all else fails heat it with mapp gas and grab some candle wax and shove it in the cracks. if you have it hot enough the wax should melt and wick it's way between the metal as it cools...
then BFH it.
This has always worked for me.
Richard
then BFH it.
This has always worked for me.
Richard
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Southern AZ
Richard
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2011
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OK so I think I might have it. -There is if/then scenario that must be true for my idea to work.
If the stud extender that is in the spacer has a shoulder on the wheel side, then it would retain the spacer when it is threaded onto the OEM stud that is through the drum.
If that is true, then the following should work.
Drill/grind the heads of the OEM studs inside the drums. Then beat/press the studs out from the inside of the drum pushing outward. That should release the spacer from the drum. Then you should be able to continue pushing the stud extenders out of the spacer. Once they are out of the space, heat the remaining OEM stud and grab it with some vice grips and turn it out of the stud extenders. This should leave it so you only need to replace the OEM studs that go through the drum. I truly hope this helps or works because I know the frustration you are going through.
P.S. The only other thing I could think to do is take it to a local machine shop and they would be able to machine the center's out of the holes, and leave the female threads intact. I used to do stuff like that all the time back when I ran a CNC mills.
-Joseph
If the stud extender that is in the spacer has a shoulder on the wheel side, then it would retain the spacer when it is threaded onto the OEM stud that is through the drum.
If that is true, then the following should work.
Drill/grind the heads of the OEM studs inside the drums. Then beat/press the studs out from the inside of the drum pushing outward. That should release the spacer from the drum. Then you should be able to continue pushing the stud extenders out of the spacer. Once they are out of the space, heat the remaining OEM stud and grab it with some vice grips and turn it out of the stud extenders. This should leave it so you only need to replace the OEM studs that go through the drum. I truly hope this helps or works because I know the frustration you are going through.
P.S. The only other thing I could think to do is take it to a local machine shop and they would be able to machine the center's out of the holes, and leave the female threads intact. I used to do stuff like that all the time back when I ran a CNC mills.
-Joseph
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,347
Likes: 1
From: Maysville, Kentucky
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Southern AZ
Wow... I am surprised the wax trick didn't work... Wax expands as it cools and lubricates. if you get the metal hot enough to have the wax wick in it usually is enough... never failed for me.
Note that propane usually will not get the metal hot enough.
Richard
Note that propane usually will not get the metal hot enough.
Richard
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
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From: Orrville, Ohio
That I can't confirm. Most of the ones I have seen are straight on the sides, but are knurled so they press in tight and don't spin. You could always grind the back off the studs and then have the studs drilled out as thin as possible without damaging the hub. If you could drill them out really thin, then I would think that even if they are tapered you should be able to pull them through.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Dassel MN
That I can't confirm. Most of the ones I have seen are straight on the sides, but are knurled so they press in tight and don't spin. You could always grind the back off the studs and then have the studs drilled out as thin as possible without damaging the hub. If you could drill them out really thin, then I would think that even if they are tapered you should be able to pull them through.